What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

It works wonderfully, in fact I think that knifemaking is probably amongst the best uses for these small form factor machines.

I actually posted some comments on a thread in this forum a while back, regarding the usefulness of these machines for knifemaking tasks. I'm a former professional machinist/fabricator, and have used Bridgeports, top of the line CNC's, etc. These small machines get a bad rap quite often, but they are just fine as long as you keep your expectations realistic. They excel for small parts in a small shop, which is a very common situation for many knifemakers.

They can be troublesome if you have zero experience with this type of equipment, and get a machine that needs tweaking. I don't know if they are the best machines to learn on, on the other hand a lot of knifemakers are pretty capable individuals, so I don't see that it's anything that time and determination couldn't handle.

If you are handy and/or have some experience, you can get very good results with these. There's just nothing else that compares, as far as being able to plug into a normal wall outlet, and being able to be moved with normal equipment, basically an engine hoist and a pickup truck.


The mill is a Grizzly G0463, which is a step up in size from the mini-mills, but still compact enough to be workable for a small shop and ability to move. I like it because the spindle takes R8 collets, which are the same size as Bridgeport/clone mills. That makes them super easy to get ahold of for cheap.

The lathe is a G4000, if I recall correctly it is a 9"x20". It was basically the smallest one that I felt like could still get some decent sized work done. I added a quick change Aloris style toolpost, which I highly recommend, the machine comes stock with a traditional set-screw toolpost, which works but isn't particularly convenient.


I spent a good chunk of yesterday's shop time reconciling my mill and lathe tooling back to usable, everything was jumbled up pretty bad after the move. I thought you might like to see what I've got for tooling so I snapped a couple pics of the drawers. What I have is what I would consider a good baseline tooling setup, not amazingly diverse, but not skimpy either. With what I have here I can accomplish a good deal of machining tasks.


The left side is mostly lathe, the right mostly mill. Bottom left is various tool holders for the quick change toolpost. Above that are some various measuring tools, centers, lathe bits, and boring bars. On the mill side, I have parallels for the vise, squares, R8 collets from 1/8" to 3/4". On the side are various milling cutters, center drills, etc. The bottom is more assorted milling cutters, roughing mills, extra long mills, etc. (not pictured, I also have an adjustable micrometer boring head, a self-reversing tap head, and a Jacobs chuck with R8 arbor which basically turns it into a fancy drill press)
uUpPnV8.jpg


In the bottom drawer I have various lathe tooling and attachments, service tools, taps and dies, drill sets, and reamers. The spare drills and reamers should not be stored how I have them, I'm still working on that at the moment. :p (not pictured because they're too heavy for this drawer, I have a swivel base for the mill vise, and a 4-jaw chuck for the lathe that allows irregular shaped, poorly centered, or warped parts to be spun on the lathe on center)
A0GLedO.jpg
 
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It works wonderfully, in fact I think that knifemaking is probably amongst the best uses for these small form factor machines.

I actually posted some comments on a thread in this forum a while back, regarding the usefulness of these machines for knifemaking tasks. I'm a former professional machinist/fabricator, and have used Bridgeports, top of the line CNC's, etc. These small machines get a bad rap quite often, but they are just fine as long as you keep your expectations realistic. They excel for small parts in a small shop, which is a very common situation for many knifemakers.

They can be troublesome if you have zero experience with this type of equipment, and get a machine that needs tweaking. I don't know if they are the best machines to learn on, on the other hand a lot of knifemakers are pretty capable individuals, so I don't see that it's anything that time and determination couldn't handle.

If you are handy and/or have some experience, you can get very good results with these. There's just nothing else that compares, as far as being able to plug into a normal wall outlet, and being able to be moved with normal equipment, basically an engine hoist and a pickup truck.


The mill is a Grizzly G0463, which is a step up in size from the mini-mills, but still compact enough to be workable for a small shop and ability to move. I like it because the spindle takes R8 collets, which are the same size as Bridgeport/clone mills. That makes them super easy to get ahold of for cheap.

The lathe is a G4000, if I recall correctly it is a 9"x20". It was basically the smallest one that I felt like could still get some decent sized work done. I added a quick change Aloris style toolpost, which I highly recommend, the machine comes stock with a traditional set-screw toolpost, which works but isn't particularly convenient.


I spent a good chunk of yesterday's shop time reconciling my mill and lathe tooling back to usable, everything was jumbled up pretty bad after the move. I thought you might like to see what I've got for tooling so I snapped a couple pics of the drawers. What I have is what I would consider a good baseline tooling setup, not amazingly diverse, but not skimpy either. With what I have here I can accomplish a good deal of machining tasks.


The left side is mostly lathe, the right mostly mill. Bottom left is various tool holders for the quick change toolpost. Above that are some various measuring tools, centers, lathe bits, and boring bars. On the mill side, I have parallels for the vise, squares, R8 collets from 1/8" to 3/4". On the side are various milling cutters, center drills, etc. The bottom is more assorted milling cutters, roughing mills, extra long mills, etc. (not pictured, I also have an adjustable micrometer boring head, a self-reversing tap head, and a Jacobs chuck with R8 arbor which basically turns it into a fancy drill press)
uUpPnV8.jpg


In the bottom drawer I have various lathe tooling and attachments, service tools, taps and dies, drill sets, and reamers. The spare drills and reamers should not be stored how I have them, I'm still working on that at the moment. :p (not pictured because they're too heavy for this drawer, I have a swivel base for the mill vise, and a 4-jaw chuck for the lathe that allows irregular shaped, poorly centered, or warped parts to be spun on the lathe on center)
A0GLedO.jpg


Ian, it looks like you have your shop very well put together! Color me green with envy. :D With any luck I'll find a non-thieving contractor and figure out the logistics for my shop in the near future and then, if I'm even luckier, it will shape up liker yours has. Kudos.
 
Getting a batch ready while having a full time job. Is like having 2 full time jobs !!

Not really, but I'm sure some know what I mean.


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Try doing it with three girls 10yrs and younger during summer when they're out of school! It's like having 4 full time jobs. I got nothing done this summer sadly, very sadly.
Don't forget the 100 degree temps !! I need an ac so bad.

Nick
 
I added two more quench tanks. I now have a tank for Parks 50, Canola and for a sub zero bath. I made these racks from expanded metal and screws. Once I quench the blade I can leave it standing on its edge in the oil until all the blades are quenched.

 
First post.. A huge thank you to those who post on this site. There is an amazing amount of knowledge shared here.
Just finished first batch of D2 knives. Smaller are Ceracoat, larger are acid etched and tumbled.
Built a belt grinder last fall, currently finishing a surface grinder attachment.
 
Chopper in progress with a good looking hamon. Still needs some sanding work, but looking good so far.

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Here is my latest:

This is the last knife I finished. Its 3/32" AEB-L Rc62 with full distal taper. Geometry is right handed. The edge is 0.010" and sharpened at 11 degrees. The handle is African Blackwood, with curly Mango. The mango looks amazing with chatoyance that rivals the best Koa. My last 4 knives have been in this wood. It is very easy to finish, takes a nice polish, and has a great WOW!!! factor. Blade length is 165mm. bolster to tip, or 6 1/4". 320 grit satin finish.

Feedback or criticism welcome.

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[/url]IMG_5858 by Wjkrywko, on Flickr[/IMG]

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This one has Tru Oil thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits. The wood was sanded to 2500grit, unusual for me. Ebony and Blackwood were the only woods I previously finished that high. I usually go to 1200 to 1500 with tropical woods, seeing little benefit beyond that. This one kept looking better and better as I went finer. The mango was professionally stabilized. Its great stuff and I will be buying a bunch more. I previously thought I wouldn't like it, as it seemed like the best Curly Maple or Curly Koa were"cleaner" looking, with fewer pores. It has to be seen in hand to appreciate. :thumbup:
 
First post.. A huge thank you to those who post on this site. There is an amazing amount of knowledge shared here.
Just finished first batch of D2 knives. Smaller are Ceracoat, larger are acid etched and tumbled.
Built a belt grinder last fall, currently finishing a surface grinder attachment.
Those are some fine looking blades cca1618!
 
Just finish up this guy.

Scale material is called molten metal. It's flamed box elder and kirinite.

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I have a knife show coming up over Labor Day weekend in Las Vegas. I had a few pieces left in stock from the Blade Show back at the beginning of June, plus a month to prepare. Figured I could knock out a few commissions and have plenty of time to build inventory.

Then, I caught a cold/flu-like bug at my niece's first birthday party the last weekend in July that knocked me on my back where I barely left the couch for at least 10 days. And everything that I had on hand sold.

So now I'm scrambling in 100+ degree south Texas late summer to get some work together so I won't have an empty table. :) And I haven't posted work in a while, so I figured I'd do so before getting a shower and crawling into bed.

A batch of Benghazi Warfighters as pre-forms.



And with the blades rough forged, trimmed, final forged, and awaiting final profile cleanup before cutting out the tangs and normalizing.



A few cord-wrapped knives waiting to get trimmed and impregnated with marine epoxy. The one with the retina-searing yellow is a commission.



A stack of tomahawks waiting to be ground. Probably not all of these will be done for the show. Gotta make strategic decisions on where to dedicate time.



And finally a couple of bush swords post-heat treatment. The blunt-ended one is about a 14" blade and the slender, sinuous one is about 16".

 
Made some more progress today.

First got the wraps impregnated with marine epoxy, essentially making a composite material in place on the tangs. They're solid now.



Then worked on the Benghazi Warfighters.

After cleanup grinding on the profiles, time to cut out the tangs with my fancy-shmancy high-moolah bandsaw.







Some cleanup grinding.







Drilled the rivet and lightening holes, then triple normalized.



And now they're soaking in vinegar overnight to eat the scale off. All going well, they should have stock removal and heat treatment done tomorrow.
 
I officially have two days to finish all of these, then school starts.

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Right at this moment they have all been glued. 2 days to do the handles and sheaths :)
 
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