What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Cable Damascus (first knife for me forged from Cable!) and red AmeraGrip handle and carbon fiber with red g10 as the guard:

VCGuKQr.jpg


First dagger! 4 3/8" 80CRV2 blade, acid etched (pic makes the tip on the right look funky) with carbon fiber marble guard and black AmeraGrip handle:
7jbwsg9.jpg


S90V 3 5/8" Bird and Trout with Blue G10 guard/frame, toxic green liners/spacer and SeaStrat G Carta handle scales:
5DZtN28.jpg


S90V 3.5" drop point blade, Blue G10 guard/frame, black g10 spacer/liner and Blue Ameragrip with 3 stainless faux pins and SS lanyard tube. Handle material is buffed with pink compound on a hard wheel. AmeraGrip buffs up nice, but the black rubber stays tacky even after buffing!
uaojIkF.jpg


Top is a 10.5" Magnacut Tall Sujihiki. Buddy wanted a Suji with a heel height of 43mm (almost like a 210mm gyuto would be) with a very long flat spot and low tip. 3/32" magnacut, but stupid thin behind the edge. Full thickness spine most of the way down the blade, so it's stiff. Handle is one he removed from another gyuto that he wanted me to reuse. Bottom blade is a White #2 Konosuke 240mm gyuto I thinned out for him:
kIdYFr1.jpg


3" AEB-L blades with Dayglo (green) and Blue AmeraGrip handles!
wv0laLJ.jpg


Forged out some functional bottle openers from rebar, too!
rQqvESM.jpg
 
Yes, it is similar! They use a different rubber material and I believe they are using a different grade of G10/FR4 that is non conductive electrically. There are more layers of the fiberglass material between the layers of rubber and it seems to be a bit stiffer and lighter due to that. The colors are also a good bit brighter, especially with the lighter colors (less black rubber bleed through). The orange one I posted a while back is super bright! I have some red/white/blue with black between each of the color layers and some pink to use soon, too! It finishes out really nice between 320 and 600 grit and I was pleased I could buff it, too! They are hoping to do carbon fiber/rubber layers soon as well! Give Current Composites a call and ask for Ari! They also have vintage micarta and stuff as well. Check out their instagram page to see some of the stuff. They have a warehouse of old vintage stuff they pull out randomly and put up on their store or instagram periodically!

I got all sorts of cool stuff when I stopped by to see them a few weeks ago!
 
Taz said:
Cable Damascus (first knife for me forged from Cable!) and red AmeraGrip handle and carbon fiber with red g10 as the guard:

VCGuKQr.jpg


First dagger! 4 3/8" 80CRV2 blade, acid etched (pic makes the tip on the right look funky) with carbon fiber marble guard and black AmeraGrip handle:
7jbwsg9.jpg


S90V 3 5/8" Bird and Trout with Blue G10 guard/frame, toxic green liners/spacer and SeaStrat G Carta handle scales:
5DZtN28.jpg


S90V 3.5" drop point blade, Blue G10 guard/frame, black g10 spacer/liner and Blue Ameragrip with 3 stainless faux pins and SS lanyard tube. Handle material is buffed with pink compound on a hard wheel. AmeraGrip buffs up nice, but the black rubber stays tacky even after buffing!
uaojIkF.jpg


Top is a 10.5" Magnacut Tall Sujihiki. Buddy wanted a Suji with a heel height of 43mm (almost like a 210mm gyuto would be) with a very long flat spot and low tip. 3/32" magnacut, but stupid thin behind the edge. Full thickness spine most of the way down the blade, so it's stiff. Handle is one he removed from another gyuto that he wanted me to reuse. Bottom blade is a White #2 Konosuke 240mm gyuto I thinned out for him:
kIdYFr1.jpg


3" AEB-L blades with Dayglo (green) and Blue AmeraGrip handles!
wv0laLJ.jpg


Forged out some functional bottle openers from rebar, too!
rQqvESM.jpg
Click to expand...
Love that (SeaStrat G-Carta handle). That color is awsome.
 
I have used several G Carta pieces and they are pretty nice! It kinda got dingy looking, so I resanded it after I took the pics, made sure to wash it between grits, and it came out a bit nicer than that pic shows.
 
Taz, I was under the impression that Konosuke was a company, not a knife style. How are you making konosuke gyutos?
 
Konosuke is a brand; I just thinned out (reground) his Konosuke knife for him. It has been in his lineup as a chef for 10 years, so it lost a good bit of blade height and length and was quite thick behind the edge! Blade and handle are Konosuke, but I did a full re grind on a felt platen on the blade to get it thinned down again to perform better. It is from their White #2 mono steel series, which is already thin at the spine. I've reground some of his Konosuke Fujiyama SanMai gyuto's for him in the past when they get thicker than he can thin on stones, too. He puts them to pretty solid use!!
 
Hey. Idk about the exact rules on this. But i figured its worth a shot.
IMG_20230630_170347682_MP.jpg

I was buffing the solder joint for a bolster on 10v c grind nakiri. The edge touched the wheel. Caught and between that happening and it dropping to the ground the blade cracked (this thing was zero ground).

I'm in a pretty serious bind, this thing was going to someone already. The real issue is i can't find 2 inch wide 10v anywhere right now. The only thing is that giant piece of a11 a certain place has. But that is 300 and way too big.

If anyone has some they could let go of for a reasonable price or knows of somewhere in the states that has some 2 inches tall please let me know. I would just this away and start on something else but this is already going to someone.
 
This is CPM S90V (high Hollow grind) hand sanded to 3000 grit. I can't feel my thumb and index finger on my right hand. That little speck/line near the edge is lint. I will say, EDM stones for the win!

Ajq2kNM.jpg
 
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Taz said:
Cable Damascus (first knife for me forged from Cable!) and red AmeraGrip handle and carbon fiber with red g10 as the guard:

VCGuKQr.jpg


First dagger! 4 3/8" 80CRV2 blade, acid etched (pic makes the tip on the right look funky) with carbon fiber marble guard and black AmeraGrip handle:
7jbwsg9.jpg


S90V 3 5/8" Bird and Trout with Blue G10 guard/frame, toxic green liners/spacer and SeaStrat G Carta handle scales:
5DZtN28.jpg


S90V 3.5" drop point blade, Blue G10 guard/frame, black g10 spacer/liner and Blue Ameragrip with 3 stainless faux pins and SS lanyard tube. Handle material is buffed with pink compound on a hard wheel. AmeraGrip buffs up nice, but the black rubber stays tacky even after buffing!
uaojIkF.jpg


Top is a 10.5" Magnacut Tall Sujihiki. Buddy wanted a Suji with a heel height of 43mm (almost like a 210mm gyuto would be) with a very long flat spot and low tip. 3/32" magnacut, but stupid thin behind the edge. Full thickness spine most of the way down the blade, so it's stiff. Handle is one he removed from another gyuto that he wanted me to reuse. Bottom blade is a White #2 Konosuke 240mm gyuto I thinned out for him:
kIdYFr1.jpg


3" AEB-L blades with Dayglo (green) and Blue AmeraGrip handles!
wv0laLJ.jpg


Forged out some functional bottle openers from rebar, too!
rQqvESM.jpg
Click to expand...
Nice job on the cable damascus! I like that dagger also. I have two daggers in the works right now but haven't hade the time to get to them.
 
Sharp By Coop Photography nailing it again! Another amazing job capturing the colors at the perfect angles on this Chaves custom Scapegoat...he always makes my work look it's best!
Valtakis_Chaves_230702-1400w.jpg
 
Forrest Taylor said:
Finished up my copy of an RH - 36 that was my grandfather's hunting knife
View attachment 2238988
Click to expand...
This is really nice. I like your bevel better than the original. You mentioned in another thread not being happy with the fuller. I'm doing a few fullers now. I made a useful set of short steel rods for sandpaper backing. I've got all the thicknesses in 16ths between 1/8 and 1/2". I keep one end flat for a scraping type motion, and the other end rounded to follow the plunge of the fuller. I put a clamp in place on the blade so as not to overshoot the end of the fuller.
 
Richard338 said:
This is really nice. I like your bevel better than the original. You mentioned in another thread not being happy with the fuller. I'm doing a few fullers now. I made a useful set of short steel rods for sandpaper backing. I've got all the thicknesses in 16ths between 1/8 and 1/2". I keep one end flat for a scraping type motion, and the other end rounded to follow the plunge of the fuller. I put a clamp in place on the blade so as not to overshoot the end of the fuller.
Click to expand...

Excellent tip.
 
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