What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Been a busy few days.

Got these 5 new ones profiled. 2 in m2, 2 in 10v, and the big one is k390. IMG_20230720_210428758_MP.jpg

Got a bunch of coupons heat treated and tested. IMG_20230722_000911094.jpg

Got everything heat treated. 9 blades in total, the 5 in that picture. A nakiri in 10v, that i forged, one blade in 10v im going to try to make a slipjoint with, and a reblade in 10v for my para 3, also a kiridashi with mild steel clad a2.
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Also i switched over to this electric fryer for doing all of my low temp tempering. It holds temp pretty amazingly just how it is from the factory, but at some point ill rewire it with a thermocouple, and a pid, atm it holds temp at about +-2, or 3 degrees. Im sure i can get it to hold completely steady with after market parts. But its still much better as is than the toaster overs i've tested.
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Also wanted to show the recent knife i finished.

230mm gyuto in 52100. The handle is stacked black linen micarta and copper, then a zebra bone ferrule with a last piece of cooper.
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The last pic is showing the banding. The finish i went with in the end. Its practically impossible to see the banding in pictures, but you can faintly see it in person.
 
A few recent knives.

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I recently sold my first and only ivy vine pattern knife. I had gotten a lot of good reactions to it, so yesterday I started two more. I'm still playing with the style, trying to get something that looks somewhat natural.

A little beveling and finishing and then into the heat treat this morning...I stopped yesterday when it got over 90 and humidity was headed for 60 in the shop!

 
Ok, I think you posted one like this before.
yup, the one pictured and another one. The one I'm working on is #3 with this handle concept, and it's much improved. The biggest reason for that is the material- the first was lightning strike carbon fiber, which is terrible, and the second is G10 which isn't too bad. This one is Richlite, and so far I really am liking the stuff. My skin reacts to G10 dust, which is a major drag, so I'm going to minimize my use of it whenever I can
 
yup, the one pictured and another one. The one I'm working on is #3 with this handle concept, and it's much improved. The biggest reason for that is the material- the first was lightning strike carbon fiber, which is terrible, and the second is G10 which isn't too bad. This one is Richlite, and so far I really am liking the stuff. My skin reacts to G10 dust, which is a major drag, so I'm going to minimize my use of it whenever I can
I haven't tried Richlite yet but I've heard good things about it. I only use G-10 for spacer material, and I've actually been going back to using the fiber spacer material for some of my knives, I think it looks better sometimes, especially the white fiber, The white G-10 looks a little grainy. I react to buffing compound sometimes, I get a touch of mild asthma like symptoms that usually go away after a couple hours.
 
there are a few things I like about Richlite;
- manufactured in my region of the continent from locally sourced materials
-made using completely recycled paper and cardboard
-non toxic and at worst smells like cardboard
-dimensional stability throughout a wide range of temperatures
-colour palette is pretty conservative, but there are plenty of options
-buy direct from the manufacturer

...man, I can think of more but I still haven't completed a handle from it yet so I should probably chill out on the evangelizing. Let's say that the reasons above are why I'm interested in incorporating it into my work on a regular basis, so long as it works well and over the long term as handle material
 
I've used Richlite on a few knives before. It's basically a recycled paper micarta like product with a different epoxy/binder. I found it to burn pretty easily, just like paper micarta, so working it slow is a must. It also didn't seem to take the same gloss/shine as other micarta/G10 products for me, either. It has some nice color options not available with regular micarta or g10 and the colors are more matte. The layers are a bit different, too in terms of thickness and you can have light and dark colors next to each other and they don't wash the other out. IE light tan and black layered up doesn't go muddy or darken the tan color much.
 
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