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Kevin Kf knives said:
Use that kith knife all the time.
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That’s awesome to hear. Making that KITH knife was a big step for me in my journey: First kitchen knife, first time making a knife for someone who wasn’t family or friend. I got some good feedback on this new knife from my brother so I think I’m headed in the right direction. So I’m glad to hear that KITH knife is serviceable and not just a good learning experience for me.
 
Some more weekend work...this one is in a steel I don't use very often...CPM 20CV. a nice hollow ground 3.2" blade drop point hunter with a tapered tang. The handle is a composite of ivory G10 and maroon linen micarta with a tuxedo accent and forest green g10 liner. sorry for the smudge pix...

Handle is glued up and profiled...next up, contouring!

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20CV seems easier to work than S90V and still performs really well. I did a big Shechita in it and wasn't cursing the customer like I was with the S90V ones!
 
Way-Barney, try putting some leather on your platen when you get to the finer belts. It will help smooth out the finish. Look into the Game Changer belts or the VSM Compact Grain Belts; they are thicker backing/abrasive wise and are easier to get a nicer finish without going to the the leather platen.
 
Taz said:
Way-Barney, try putting some leather on your platen when you get to the finer belts. It will help smooth out the finish. Look into the Game Changer belts or the VSM Compact Grain Belts; they are thicker backing/abrasive wise and are easier to get a nicer finish without going to the the leather platen.
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Hello Taz,
Thanks for that advice, that has been one of my biggest bug bears making this one, apart from schoolboy errors, the knife was bouncing about all over the place, particularly when trying to finish the bottom of the handle on the small top wheel of the grinder, its just solid alloy.
The 600 was very thin and flexible which helped with the handle but was rubbish on the steel. Do you leave the leather on the whole time or have multi platen system? I will look at those belts as well. :thumbsup:

Edit, just looking through the threads and found you comments Taz, I have some 12mm rubber that my Bro got me a few years ago, its used to make conveyor belts in mining operations to bring coal up etc.. Might try that.
 
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Here's another in progress...EDC Wharncliffe in S90V, hollow ground and hand satin finish. The handle scales are composite black and green linen micarta on black linen liners. On to handle contouring.

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I like a 400-600 grit finish from my scalloped j flex belts, then a quick hand sand at the same grit and then a coat of Tung Oil to darken the material back up. Simple, good finish that looks good, but has plenty of grip left. I make sure to get all of the previous grit scratches out as I work my way up so it's a clean finish. Deep scratches love to hide in Micarta and pop out when you buff!
 
I know what you mean about micarta hiding scratches. On paper micarta I like finishing with a red rouge polish, especially on kitchen knives. Always seem to go back umpteen times to remove a hidden mark/gouge/scratch
 
Wipe down with denatured alcohol, put a coat of tung oil on it and it will usually help the scratches to pop out. I hold the scales up to a light and look along the scales to the light and I can see exactly where any leftover scratches or rough spots are. It works for any handle material I have tried.
 
J Lensmire said:
Finishing up some projects this weekend. I’m still debating how I want to finish linen micarta scales. High grit hand sanded, buffed with whites compound, hand finished with ScotchBrite (belts too thick for my cheap 2x42 grinder.)
Thanks for looking.
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What's the difference in micarta between the 3rd one from the top and the top 4 in general? Is it cut differently?

navman navman you've been killing it lately, beautiful work.
 
The top three look like black linen micarta and the fourth one looks like a canvas Micarta with two different colors in it?
 
Actually the top four are all black linen micarta. Top one hit with buffer/white compound.
2nd hand sanded with a woven conditioning belt ( 3M ScotchBrite wannabe),
3rd -400 grit Diablo SandNet pad
4th- 400 grit SandNet pad and then woven conditioning belt.

Like I said, playing around trying to get a finish on linen that I like. Canvas - hand sand to 400, then clean-up with Flitz, coat with carnauba wax. Paper- 600 grit then buff with red rouge to high polish.
 
SBuzek said:
I still use one, those who say you're not a real knifemaker if you don't grind free hand are full of bullsh#d.
Use every tool available to you to make the best possible knife you are able.
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Isn't using that jig Still Free hand grinding?
It's just a stop. I personally still consider that free hand
 
is freehand grinding vs. using a jig an actual thing that people get all twisted up about?🤨
 
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