What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

You guys are really doing some amazing things, keep it up!

I finally had some time to work on my Forgecraft chef knife refurb project.

Here's the result finish of my first use of a scotch brite belt, I love it!
nAiYaK.jpg

and… here is the handle glued up and ready to cure for 24 hours
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This was the first tanto I did in my EDC series. Before I had finished it, I had orders for them due to showing previews and this had to sit in the drawer for a while. Finally finished it up last week. 440C, 416 and canvas micarta. Sheath by Jack Andress.

Bob

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr
 
Nice Forgecraft. I have a FC butcher knife that's been in the family for generations. I rehandled mine as well with some stabilized olive burl and now it's my go-to meat slicer.
 
A few working on at the moment. Bigger one is for a buddy on the force. Going to do blue liners and black G10 to match his uniform. Trying to get a stencil made for his badge number as the serial number.
Glad it finally cooling down here, perfect outside grinding weather. Bad inside hand sanding weather thought.. I'll have to be moving the vice outside this week, next to my archery range. Little bit of this.. little bit of that.. nothing wrong with that. Keeping practice up at all the hobbies.

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I'm working on a mirror-matched pair of full tang fighter-esque pieces in ebony and thuya... one polished, the other brute de forge. The polished version's handle/bolsters are rough shaped and fitted.

Polished:


Brute de forge:


And finally:
Habaki in the kitchen.... oh my!


-Peter
 
Cool set there Peter! I want to do a four knife set of dueling knives.

Did some surface grinding this morning. These are EDC's in CPM-S35VN. I know some people said this steel was tough to finish once hard but, I'm really not having any trouble and all my blades are coming out right at 60Hrc.

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

And here's a hunter in CPM-S35VN with 416 bolsters and some wild maple from Mark at Burl Source. I was not a fan of this wood but my wife made me get it. I thought it would just sit in the drawer but the first time I let a customer look through my selection, he picked it. I posted a WIP pic on facebook and everybody loved the handle; I give up!

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Bob
 
This is what needs to happens when a finished blade develops pitting under the protective painter's tape. This is a forged W2 blade that was built up with ebony, premium Thuya burl, and carbon fiber pins.

Never again will I tape a blade.

Bottom knife:










-Peter
 
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Peter- Yep... been there, done that. :(

A quick wipe-down with a good oil, like Balistol or RemOil.... then wrap it up in the 'ol phonebook/catalog page with some of el cheap-O Harbor Freight electrical tape is the way to go.

It's slightly less convenient than directly applying painter's tape, but I have never gotten that pitting bullshit with the oil/paper wrap, but I got it many times with tape applied directly to the blade.

Sorry to see you had to go to that extreme, but I sure do know the feeling. It is a testament to your commitment to only send out work that has been done to the best of your abilities. In our throw away society, that is a concept that many folks simply cannot understand. Kudos my friend. :)
 
RangerBobTX said:
Cool set there Peter! I want to do a four knife set of dueling knives.

Did some surface grinding this morning. These are EDC's in CPM-S35VN. I know some people said this steel was tough to finish once hard but, I'm really not having any trouble and all my blades are coming out right at 60Hrc.

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

And here's a hunter in CPM-S35VN with 416 bolsters and some wild maple from Mark at Burl Source. I was not a fan of this wood but my wife made me get it. I thought it would just sit in the drawer but the first time I let a customer look through my selection, he picked it. I posted a WIP pic on facebook and everybody loved the handle; I give up!

Untitled by Ranger_Bob, on Flickr

Bob
Click to expand...

Bob,
Cool to see your new surface grinder in action. I had a discussion with one of the guys at Niagara
http://nsm-ny.com he said the reason that they came out with the CPM-S35VN was to make a steel with almost the same characteristics as their CPM-S30V that was easier to grind. The say about 20% I feel it grinds a little harder than the CPM-154 and works great!

I really like that live edge look in your green stabilized handle wood. One thing I learned after I did my first few shows was to let the customer decide. I also had a few wild colored wooden handles that I thought looked ghastly for lack of a better word! LOL

Just like you. They were some of the first sold. lol

Keep up the great work!
 
^ That tape is scarring me a little :confused:

When someone orders a knife without a sheath I tape the blade up before taping it to (and wrapping it with) cardboard so some postman somewhere doesn't get holes poked in them. I've shipped knives with tape on the blade all around the world...

...and I've never actually seen what the knife looks like when it was untaped on the other end...

now you guys have me worried.
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Nathan the Machinist said:
^ That tape is scarring me a little :confused:

When someone orders a knife without a sheath I tape the blade up before taping it to (and wrapping it with) cardboard so some postman somewhere doesn't get holes poked in them. I've shipped knives with tape on the blade all around the world...

...and I've never actually seen what the knife looks like when it was untaped on the other end...

now you guys have me worried.
skep.gif
Click to expand...

Nathan,

When I send out a kitchen knife or any blade without a sheath I include a "Mundial Felt Lined BLADE GUARD AND EDGE PROTECTOR "

I get them on Ebay and they run about $3-4 and work great.

I then wrap them in brown paper and tape that.
 
no tape for me on the blade but for shippi gi make a cardboard sheath and cut bend and tape so the blade cant move in it then pack it tight in paper shread till i enat shake it around and here it move
 
Hmmm? I've never had a problem with blades I have taped up so I could shape the handle.

I do use 95% stainless steels and I buy the 3M Blue painters tape and store it in a dry place.

Like Avigil, I use a plastic blade protector for sending out knives without a sheath or Saya.

The guy that owns The Ultimate edge has his headquarters here in our town and has these made in the USA. They go by the name, Blade Savers.
 
The painters tape really made for painting with latex paint absorbs the water from the paint and creates a gel barrier to give you nice straight clean tape lines.

It's more expensive than cheap masking tape, but I suspect that stuff absorbs and holds water.


If you're used to using tape, how about running a layer inside out so the adhesive is on the outside, then another layer normal on top.

It creates a fast simple protection
Depending on the blade shape, it might slide off though.

electrical tape stretches and stays on like that, no gummy glue to solvent off.
 
Claying up a few blades for heat treat. One down two to go.
I've never had a "lesson" on how this is done other than watching YouTube videos and admiring how folks here do this process. I'm all open to pointers.....please.

This is a 1095 blade, forged from 1/4" stock. The other two are W2:





-Peter
 
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