What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Butch, that thing is wacky, and I mean that in the best possibly way... super cool.

Here's my last couple. The first one was a commission from almost a year ago, the customer said he didn't want it until right before hunting season. He wanted a sharpfinger without the little girly handle (his words not mine). Also, another Gunstock drop hunter in Curly walnut.

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Thanks!

The block on that knife is cut from the same cross-section as one of the ones I'm sending you. I'm a big fan. It works really well, finishes nicely, and smells really nice when you sand it.

Some of the burls, such as on the 1st knife, have soft and hard spots right next to each other that can be a real pain when finishing. Nothing worse than roughing in a profile and realizing you've got a huge dip in the handle. Straight grained woods such as the walnut are a pleasure to work with comparatively.
 
Ian, both of those knives are great!

I finally got around to making some belt storage for my small workshop/garage.
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Nick Wheeler also inspired me to use a scrap piece of steel to make a sanding stick and boy does it work well. Thanks again Nick!

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sadly i went back to sharpen it and found i had over stressed the blade with how hard i peened the pin. small crack formed in the blade so i will be makig another blade for the bali. but i learned a bit more about peening pins (was jsut the 4th time i had tried )
 
Just finished this pig for my friend Death Familia.

7.5" combo ground recurve tanto in M2.
Cross cut carbon-fiber and flared tubes.
 

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Aaron, I'd use 3/8th connectors so you can use larger hoses and get more flow. And I agree, it works really well. :thumbup:
 
Patrice Lemée;14052247 said:
Aaron, I'd use 3/8th connectors so you can use larger hoses and get more flow. And I agree, it works really well. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

http://www.hose-man.com These folks do good work on crimped hose connectors, just send them specs (fluid, temp, length, etc.), and the connector type. It won't break the bank either. I hope its a welcome suggestion.

They repaired my Oxy-Acetylene hose, cut off the bad section, and put new fittings on it for $6. Granted I am local and walk-in. :D
 
After an exhausting holiday monday, i've got the foundation poured and ready to sit for a month. The morning started bright and early at 8am with the delivery of 50 bags of the high strength quickreet. I bought a harbor freight single bag mixer to do the job and got started on it around 11:30 after running some errands, and buying a new hose because my old one had a split in the middle, as i found out when it started to spray water all over my basement when i turned the faucet on. Finished right around 5:30 after cleaning off the tools and locking up. By calculation it should have taken 37 bags, and It ended up taking exactly that. I kept the concrete as dry as i could, using between 3 and 4 quarts of water per bag.

A friend of mine from around the corner came over and helped me by tapping down / packing the concrete first with a 2x4 and then as there became space, with a hand compactor. Once the concrete got high enough, I put the isolation material, sold for expansion joints in concrete, around the edges of the hole. His packing down the concrete easily made it go 3x as fast as it was alone. As he packed it down, it seemed that the 'loose' water floated to the top, i'm assuming this is as intended.

As we got to the last bag, we discovered that my concrete floor for the garage is sloped, so the concrete in the pad wants to bulge a little to the 'back' (by the doors). We were able to mostly get that smoothed out by sliding a board back and forth with sawing motion over the hole, repeatedly.

As can be clearly seen, I did not end up casting in place any bolts, and will be just drilling down with a 1" bit once I have the hammer in place, and epoxying in the 3/4 all thread. This is how the hammer is held down now and it works just fine, and I really needed to get this concrete poured because we're almost getting down to freezing at nights now.

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Patrice Lemée;14052247 said:
Aaron, I'd use 3/8th connectors so you can use larger hoses and get more flow. And I agree, it works really well. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Hey Pat! I've been running the grinder pretty hard over the last 2 days doing a batch of blades, and even with the 1/4" hoses it's stayed exactly at ambient temps. I do have a pretty powerful pump attached to those little hoses though!
 
Good to know Aaron. If it works like this that's perfect. Mine never actually says at room temperature but still cooler than without.
 
It needs about 1 GPM flow. If you're using a small centrifugal pump like a little aquarium pump that only develops about 1/2 PSI, you're going to need bigger hose to reduce pressure drop from the hose. But, if you're using a positive displacement pump such as a diaphragm pump that develops some PSI you can use small tubing without a problem. I have used 1/4" OD tubing with good results.
 
This thread is full of win... nice work guys!


My wife Sara and I are celebrating/recovering from the birth of our second daughter Amber. :D ...I have been sporadic in the shop time-wise lately.

I have about 35 knives close right now... Ti Backpackers, TiBOK's (Bottle Opener Knives) and a group of various fixed blades... Rigging and Kitchen Knives. I mostly need to finish sheaths and sharpen...

Here's a Yanagi Ba I am working on, it is .100" 52100 steel at about 62 RC. I brought it up to about 1000 grit on the grinder (grinding horizontally to 600 then vertically from 280-1500 grit) then started with the waterstones. It still needs to be cleaned up but is turning out nicely! I'm considering Ironwood or Blackwood for the scales... maybe Maple with Blackwood bolsters.

...tip looks strange in pic, I think that is water




The shop!

 
In the past, I've done mostly stock removal, but I recently caught the forging/forge welding bug. Lately I've been sticking whatever I can together. Right now, I'm doing everything by hand, so ... a press is on the short list. It's been a while since I've posted, so I apologize for all the pictures:

Low Layer kiritsuke/santoku (1095 + 15n20). Just a "preview" etch before finish sanding.

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Chainsaw chain kiridashi. I mostly just wanted to see what kind of edge this stuff would hold without knowing how to give it a proper heat treatment.

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Same stuff (chainsaw) with a 1084 cutting edge.

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Integral "letter opener" (1095 + 15n20). This one will be a gift for my Dad on his birthday and is currently being stuck to a stabilized Ebony handle. He doesn't like knives, but he opens a lot of letters... so I'm leaving the tip round and the edge un-sharpened and calling it a letter opener. If he ever wants to upgrade it to "letter knife," I'll just sharpen it up for him :)

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So basically, I have a lot of hand sanding to do and handles to make.

I also picked up an old Warner & Swasey no.2 turret lathe. A machinist in the same industrial complex where I rent my shop space had two identical ones. Both were operational and still under power, but he needed the space, so one had to go. He was getting ready to part it out and scrap it, so he asked if I wanted it before he spent the time. I'm not lacking space (yet) and the "price" was right, so why not? :D I'd rather give it another chance at life than see it go to the scrapyard. Within the hour, he had it loaded on to his forklift and dropped it off in my shop.

I'm not a machinist and I know next to nothing about these machines other than what I can find on the internet, so right now it's just a massive shop decoration. He still uses his other one, so he didn't give me any tooling with it other than the master collet chuck. I know these things are meant for mass production and probably aren't the most useful thing in a knife shop, so I'm still deciding if I want to spend the time/money to try and make it useful to me. Any ideas?

Here it is (in his shop):

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I'm a sucker for this kind of stuff:

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