- Joined
- Nov 9, 2006
- Messages
- 521
Finished one with some laser effects
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!
- Thread starter WillSwift
- Start date
Ben Kabisch
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- May 22, 2003
- Messages
- 187
Working on my 1st lockback…hope to finish it this weekend!
HPD
Gold Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2015
- Messages
- 191
Thanks. I like the blade profile and plan on making more of these, improving things. I would like to invest in a surface grinder to do tapered tangs. The thing it too heavy!
navman
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2013
- Messages
- 2,791
no need for a surface grinder for tapered tangs. Almost all my knives feature a tapered tang, I use a carbide flat platen and a sharpie marker (and a cheap welding magnet to hold it. Once you get the hang of it, takes very little time.
Hengelo_77
Basic Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2006
- Messages
- 6,222
Like Navman, a flat platen and two lines at the butt end of the knife.
I use a block of wood with a nail sticking out to hold the blank.
Remember to drill your pin holes before tapering
I use a block of wood with a nail sticking out to hold the blank.
Remember to drill your pin holes before tapering
240x54 and 3.4 spine at heel
241 grams
blade of Hitachi white #1 core with gokunan-tetsu (soft non alloy steel) cladding. Partial forged finish and Stone polished, ready for finer finishing
handle of pink ivory, black and white spacers with mammoth ivory cap
ScarFoot
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2021
- Messages
- 797
I agree with what Navman and Hengelo said about not needing an SGA or anything special to taper tangs. I used an adjustable bevel guide and a flat platen when I first started doing them. That being said, I love my SGA! It makes it soooo much easier and everything is straight/flat when you’re done. I can do multiple blanks without putting a whole lot of thought into it. There’s really nothing to mess up if you calculate your shim stacks correctly. I made an excel sheet to calculate my shim stacks so I can get whatever thickness I want at the butt of the handle.
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2023
- Messages
- 735
Here's what i'm working on- Making some bevels on a batch of different designs.
I just got some of the red label abrasives ceramic belts and I really like them! Much better than the cheap amazon ones I was using before!
I just got some of the red label abrasives ceramic belts and I really like them! Much better than the cheap amazon ones I was using before!
Jesse Latham
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2010
- Messages
- 843
Would you please share your excel sheet?
Hengelo_77
Basic Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2006
- Messages
- 6,222
Measure the stock thickness at the ricasso and at the butt.
Shim half the difference.
I use a brass wedge and do it by eye
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2023
- Messages
- 735
Heat Treating some AEB-L. Its so terrible to buy HT foil 
ScarFoot
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Sep 16, 2021
- Messages
- 797
Mine is calculated for my particular sine bar so it would have to be modified. If I can’t find a way to get it off that old computer I can probably send you the formulas if you’re familiar with Excel. It’s simple triangle math. I believe there are a couple of online calculators now for sine bar calculations.
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2023
- Messages
- 19
Last week I got a "bench" shear, and started on taking it apart, cleaning/derusting and generally restoring it.
If the nameplate is anything to go by, its capacity should be around 22mm (about 7/8") bar stock, 20x20mm square stock, or roughly 12mm (~1/2") sheet.
I tried it out when I first hauled it in, but it wasn't the most pleasant experience, cutting through a 5mm (~3/16") sheet. As I later found out the blades were in dire need of maintenance with it having some deformations, and rust.
For now I'm happy with how it cleaned up, and anxious to sharpen, and try it out for real
If the nameplate is anything to go by, its capacity should be around 22mm (about 7/8") bar stock, 20x20mm square stock, or roughly 12mm (~1/2") sheet.
I tried it out when I first hauled it in, but it wasn't the most pleasant experience, cutting through a 5mm (~3/16") sheet. As I later found out the blades were in dire need of maintenance with it having some deformations, and rust.
For now I'm happy with how it cleaned up, and anxious to sharpen, and try it out for real
J Lensmire
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2021
- Messages
- 209
Alex Topfer
Gold Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2019
- Messages
- 745
Nakiri forging practice, first attempt on the bottom
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2023
- Messages
- 735
Cleaning up some blades after HT
Finally got around to upgrading my dremel mill setup. Works pretty good!!
Got the upgraded slide table, no play in this one! Had to do up another adapter plate and used some 2"x3" aluminum angle iron to attach it to the cross plate:
1/16" bit slot and 1/8" bit slot in some micarta, no hole drilled before slotting! Works well in 3-4 passes to cut a nice straight slot!
Got the upgraded slide table, no play in this one! Had to do up another adapter plate and used some 2"x3" aluminum angle iron to attach it to the cross plate:
1/16" bit slot and 1/8" bit slot in some micarta, no hole drilled before slotting! Works well in 3-4 passes to cut a nice straight slot!