What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Relieving the liners with a pantograph is a bit different, but I'm happy with the result

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Just bought a Rockwell tester, a Grizzly T33986, after my brother visiting from Idaho tonight told me I should start selling knives part time. I'm not doing that without dialing in my heat treatment and having some way of tracking consistency.
 
HPD said:
Just bought a Rockwell tester, a Grizzly T33986, after my brother visiting from Idaho tonight told me I should start selling knives part time. I'm not doing that without dialing in my heat treatment and having some way of tracking consistency.
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Congrats, it's a good feeling to know that you are hitting the numbers that you are aiming for.
 
Made up a plate quench clamp device. 2' long 2 x 6 with 2 Doyle Carpenter clamps on it. I can use my 30" plates or the shorter plates easily and quickly. I mounted it in a bench vise and I used my post vise with angle iron to keep straight out of the dry ice/DNA slurry.

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Speaking of dry ice slurry, I got a 32" Speed Rail for booze bottles, lined it with several layers of aluminum foil to make it water tight, and put it on some 2" foam board, wrapped it with R30 fiberglass insulation and put insulation on it as a top. Mixed dry ice and DNA to get it nice and cool, soaked each blade for 30 minutes after the plate quench and then into the post vise and angle irons for the last few. The first 3 I did werent in the post vise and warped...a lot!

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I heat treated 6 pieces of 5.3", 1" wide and 1/16" magnacut (which went into the liquid nitrogen) and 6, 18" x 2" x 1/16" Magnacut Shechita blanks. They are all in the oven getting a 325 degree preliminary temper.
 
Taz said:
Made up a plate quench clamp device. 2' long 2 x 6 with 2 Doyle Carpenter clamps on it. I can use my 30" plates or the shorter plates easily and quickly. I mounted it in a bench vise and I used my post vise with angle iron to keep straight out of the dry ice/DNA slurry.

View attachment 2784544


Speaking of dry ice slurry, I got a 32" Speed Rail for booze bottles, lined it with several layers of aluminum foil to make it water tight, and put it on some 2" foam board, wrapped it with R30 fiberglass insulation and put insulation on it as a top. Mixed dry ice and DNA to get it nice and cool, soaked each blade for 30 minutes after the plate quench and then into the post vise and angle irons for the last few. The first 3 I did werent in the post vise and warped...a lot!

View attachment 2784545

I heat treated 6 pieces of 5.3", 1" wide and 1/16" magnacut (which went into the liquid nitrogen) and 6, 18" x 2" x 1/16" Magnacut Shechita blanks. They are all in the oven getting a 325 degree preliminary temper.
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I bought one of those Doyle clamps a few weeks ago. They work great.
 
Yeah, they work really well! The aluminum plates in the pic are 30" long, so I went with 2 so I wouldnt have to worry about balancing on one.
 
Almost done with these two. A little Danish oil clean-up/ 400-800 grit marks, on the carver ( noted when picture was cropped) and then need to finish the 3.5” parer for the set.
14C28N Rc~ 63 by Paul Bos
Both are just under OAL - 12” w/ 7” edge
Carver .130” and Chef .170” at ricasso
Padauk wood w/ Black fiber liners. Brass Loveless style bolts and GFlex epoxy secure handles. 7 coats of Watco Natural Danish Oil finishes the Padauk.
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Killer handle! Coke bottles are just about as sexy as it gets.
Most folks would have left the red liners even, but your reverse tapered liners accentuate the tang taper, The effect is superb.
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I actually started tapering my liners out of function. I got tired of shimming my handles to drill the holes when I tapered my tangs and I thought “well I’ll just taper the scales while I’m setup and I won’t have to mess with shims.” As I was getting everything ready the first time I realized tapering the liners would probably look interesting and still accomplish the same thing. It was really more trouble than it was worth when I first started doing it but I liked the look too much to quit. Needless to say it’s much easier to do with my SGA. I do it on all of my tapered tang knives now. After I taper the tang I just stick the scales (double sided tape) liner side out on a couple of pre-ground pieces of flat stock and taper the liners. You just want to check frequently towards the front (thinnest part) to make sure it’s not getting too hot. Then I even everything up on the disk sander. Whole operation takes about 15-20 minutes.
 
Scarfoot, now I have another skill I’m going to have to butcher my first few hundred tries! That blade handle looks really sweet. If I may ask, what thickness of liner do you start with?
My guess would be somewhere between .0675” and .100”. That looks like about .125” or so blade stock.
Again, it looks really nice! I can say I don’t believe I’ve ever seen tapered liners before.
 
J Lensmire said:
Scarfoot, now I have another skill I’m going to have to butcher my first few hundred tries! That blade handle looks really sweet. If I may ask, what thickness of liner do you start with?
My guess would be somewhere between .0675” and .100”. That looks like about .125” or so blade stock.
Again, it looks really nice! I can say I don’t believe I’ve ever seen tapered liners before.
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That’s 0.115” Ruby Red. Since I’ve started tapering them I generally get 12”x24” sheets of G10 in the 0.080”-0.090” range for thin knives and the 0.110”-0.120” range for thick knives. Go thick because you can take more off but you can’t put it back on. It also gives a bit more thickness when using 1/4” scales. The blade stock started as a belt finished piece of 1/8” so it was a bit under that when I got it but I don’t remember the final thickness off the top of my head. I’m guessing it was probably around 0.110”. That particular knife was the one where I realized the initial math in my excel formula was wrong. It essentially got tapered to almost nothing but I went with it since it’s just a small hunter/skinner design I’ve been tinkering with. That’s why I had to use the thicker liner material on it.

I figure there’s surely other people who taper their liners. My knife making buddies think I’m crazy. I honestly just started doing it so I could drill my holes straight.
 
Snatched a a couple hours in the shop yesterday and fitted up my grinder with some shielding to keep the water off it:
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I was going to get grinding, but then the boys came out: 'Daddy, lets go fly the glider!' So we did:
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Hoping to grind this batch over the next few weeks, if time allows (that's my pattern in the middle):
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First, it is good to see you have your priorities straight!

Second, you will love wet grinding.

Third, Thise will be nice knives. That is almost the exact shape I make the most of. I sell 10 usuba/santoku for every fancy knife. Simple knife .... simple handle ... simple build ... easy sell.
 
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