What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Funny, I get that look from my wife all the time! You’re going to love those ovens, I have the LB22 and love it. I wish they made a tempering oven that maybe only went to 1000 degrees and half the price.
 
Funny, I get that look from my wife all the time! You’re going to love those ovens, I have the LB22 and love it. I wish they made a tempering oven that maybe only went to 1000 degrees and half the price.
Yeah the LT series tempering oven is supposed to go to 1200ish but they failed at the half price part… I have to get a few things from the hardware store to get everything setup and mounted but hopefully will be able to fire them up this weekend.
 
the handle scale cutouts on the Albatross get done one side at a time and it's finicky as hell. I make a rough cut using the coping saw to open up the window, and then begin the tedious process of removing just enough material for the high tolerance fit up that this construction method demands. Takes a couple hours per side at least, and is the least satisfying and most frustrating part of making these things, which is why I'll be taking a break from this method for a while. That said, each one I've done is slightly better fitted than the last, and in less amount of time. But really, this type of knife should be at least roughed out on a CNC cutter. Or maybe a pantograph.
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speaking of finicky- the handle on this Colibri chef knife is the first I've done this way and figuring out the process has left me scratching my head more than once. It's hard enough to broach out a tang slot in a monolithic piece of handle material, while ensuring the ferrule fits perfectly, but doing a framed tang with hidden pins is a whole other proposition. I'll use the file guide to set the seat for the ferrule and the diameter of the tenon that the ferrule fits over. Once both sides of the handle are filed to the proper dimensions, I'll connect them together and work the tenon down until it fits perfectly into the ferrule.
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I got out in the shop and started cleaning. The place was a mess. I have piled things on top of each other for the past year or so. I decided to start with the jeweler's/knife bench.
I sorted all the drills, bits, and burrs into boxes, cleaned off all the odds and ends that didn't belong there ... and discovered I had a benchtop under all that crap. Even more exciting, I found the bottom of the catch drawer. After getting it all clean, I sorted all the metal scrap and extra stock I haven't really gone through from my retirement. I put about 10 pounds of silver in the refiner bucker along with a good amount of gold scrap. As I sorted the scrap from the keeping stuff, I decided to build a diamond pendant. It has a nice .25 carat marquise cut diamond set in white gold. Then, I took some old half-dollars and started a cut-out on one. I sawed out not just the walking liberty like I usually do, but the sun and rays, motto, flag, and flowers. I used a 4/0 blade.

The bench has a standard jewelers catch drawer, and a work board the fits on it for knife and other projects.

I also realized that I have some nice stuff I just won't use enough to make it worth keeping. I plan on selling some wire inlay tools for knife handles and probably my entire engraving setup.

Here are theBench 6.jpgBench 5.jpgBench 4.jpgBench 3.jpgBench 2.jpgBench 1.jpgBench.jpg photos. The pendant and coin are not cleaned yet.
 
Did a bit of forge practice and forge welded a piece of railroad spike to a piece of railroad clip, and reshaped the tang on the big bowtie I'm working on.

I also forged a guard out of wrought iron a while back, and I'm thinking about punching out the guard/tang hole. What do y'all think about that? Worth the effort, or should I just drill it all out and go with the files?

Here's some pics of my mangled efforts.
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Finally clicked the Order button! Anolex 3030 EVO MAX, 810w spindle, all 3 axis are linear rails (the square ones, not the round ones), and the control board has WiFi control, so I can use my phone to run programs! Now I can slot guards and cut out guard "blanks" easier, mill grooves in handle scales to inlay material, etc! Well, once I learn how to use it and CAM/CAD/GCode!
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A self-imposed challenge: the longest knife I can fit in the longest diagonal of my HT oven not counting the handle, that's 410mm/16.1" in 1.6mm/ 1/16" or less thick steel. My previous attempt using 1mm/0.04" thickness failed, so I relaxed the challenge a little.

Used Sandvik 1095 in 1.6mm thickness, and ceramic blanket to close the ovens front with enough space to leave the handle out, after quench in preheated oil it went straight to my water-cooled press until warm, then directly to the tempering oven.
Straight as an arrow!
Handle in Guayubira wood, used half a cow for the sheath :) , comparison photo shows a 300mm/12" OAL kitchen knife.
End size 520mm / 20.5" OAL

Pablo
PS: please don't mock the anti-safety device LMAO

uNq0bce.jpeg

I59F2QV.jpeg

y7H3ZS0.jpeg

2SZUeKd.jpeg
 
A self-imposed challenge: the longest knife I can fit in the longest diagonal of my HT oven not counting the handle, that's 410mm/16.1" in 1.6mm/ 1/16" or less thick steel. My previous attempt using 1mm/0.04" thickness failed, so I relaxed the challenge a little.

Used Sandvik 1095 in 1.6mm thickness, and ceramic blanket to close the ovens front with enough space to leave the handle out, after quench in preheated oil it went straight to my water-cooled press until warm, then directly to the tempering oven.
Straight as an arrow!
Handle in Guayubira wood, used half a cow for the sheath :) , comparison photo shows a 300mm/12" OAL kitchen knife.
End size 520mm / 20.5" OAL

Pablo
PS: please don't mock the anti-safety device LMAO

uNq0bce.jpeg

I59F2QV.jpeg

y7H3ZS0.jpeg

2SZUeKd.jpeg
Wow, how was the flex and bowing when grinding? How is the flex in the blade now? I guess the wide blade and your ricasso/handle design help with it not being overly flexible.
 
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