What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

So many years ago I complained about some belt grinder problems evident on blade/flat work. The other month took the platen off and boy, was it gouged. About 15 years of inattention. Surface ground it flat. Well, then I’d read about those newfangled carbide platens but they’re expensive. Caught two slabs of carbide cheap on eBay, and after one broken teeny 4-40 NC tap (blind holes and straight flute taps, no bueno), I’m hopeful the platen will hold up. Used aluminum as its backing plate. We’ll see.
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A couple of filet knives in Magnacut. Couldn't find the thickness I wanted so I had to grind down a 1/8" bar. The top one is about .07" thick the bottom one is around .05" thick. Top one is for a young fisherman and has a Black drum lasered on one side and his initials on the opposite and the sheath is a mirror of those. Handle is blue micarta with blue G10 and rubber upper and stainless pins.
Bottom filet knife is my testbed .05" thick Black micarta and Osage Orange handle.

Bottom knife will be my new vacation cooking knife 6" Chef in Nitro-V spine is around .07" and the handle will be a hidden tang in black and natural canvas micarta.magnacut filet knives41326.jpgnitroV minichef wip.jpg
 
navman said:
Just had a set 9f GripX scales Crack in half wile drilling. Stuff reminds me if kirinite.. which I despise. I do not trust this material.
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Good morning Josh. Quite surprised to hear this. I have used Kirinite, also not a fan. However, I have used a ton of GripX in the last two years, and the only time it ever cracked during drilling for me was when I was using a dull drill in the press, and no backing material underneath the GripX. And even then, the crack was just a little chipping on the surface near the exit of the cut, and I was still able to make the knife I wanted to after shaping the scales.
 
Just finished this knife and sheath, it was donated to the Safari Club Tampa Bay chapter for their live auction.
this was my 32nd year of donating a knife to them. the Safari Club is a good organization.
CPM154 blade, dyed and stabilized Box Elder Burl with nickel silver pins and lanyard hole, hand carved oak leaves on the sheath.

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Speaking of Box Elder burl...
Just finished this one. AEB-L Stainless steel. Stabilized dyed Box Elder Burl. Brass pins, lanyard tube, and G10 Black liners...


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Been sick since the week before Easter, still fighting it off :(

But I managed to get a few things done!

Lasered one of the MBBO for a Youth Turkey Hunting event!
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Did a Magnacut FBBO with OD Green SureTouch and a larger finger choil:
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And got these done finally! 4 Damascus MBBO sized blades (2.5" edge, 7" OAL roughly) in .165" HHH Knives (Randy Haas) Ladder patter damascus.
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They each got their own veg tanned water buffalo leather pocket sheath with DCC clip:
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These are all coated with Matt Zyla's clear ceramic coating as well. Takes a couple days to do the coating process on them, but the surface skates a razor blade without scratching the oxides! The coating should protect the blade finish so the leather sheaths don't wear them. I want to try the blade finish on some mono steel blades to see if it will reduce the kydex scratches, too as well as on some Damascus kitchen knives to see how well it protects the steel from patina and how it effects food release.
 
Tony Mont said:
Hengelo_77 Hengelo_77 I haven't forgotten about the fuller, my foredom broke down and awaiting parts.

In the meantime I tried some new things.
None of them are worthy to stay but they are a good practice. While they are usually called fluted, the correct term is ribbed.
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That is beautyful, I realy like the straight ribs on the lower handle.
What do you initialy use to remove the wood between the ribs?
 
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