What's your favourite knife/knives in 5"-7" range?

Nice!
As a cheaper and easy to learn option, I've reprofiled knives with a Spyderco-sharp maker, and I purchased some diamond rods for it. I would say it took less than an hour to re-profile to a much thinner bevel.
Another option for less than 100 is the Worksharp. It will give a very nice edge very quickly.
 
resinguy said:
Pretty sure that the GSO has a thinner edge than any RMD-type, so it will cut better, but INFI is tougher under beating.
Click to expand...

Yes, you are spot on. Furthermore, my GSO5.1 is in CPM20CV so the SMD is definitely tougher. For my intended usage, I will never be able to push the knives to their limit.



Don
 
I have a Boss Jack, original Team Gemini, round butt Tank Buster, 711, and an infi Scrapper 5. Recently I always find myself reaching for the tank buster when I need a one knife solution. I think I've done everything with it you may ever need to do, from building fires, to cleaning fish, and dressing small game.
 
Would love to see photos of the Tankbuster in use. It seems like a well designed knife.
 
rcb2000 said:
~SNIP~, for my large choppers almost exclusively the Worksharp.
Click to expand...

Amen to that, the Worksharp gets is done in no time with a very reasonable edge. It doesn't do a mirror polish but it is close enough.

I also have a KME but it really is too time consuming to beat out the Worksharp.
 
Firestrike said:
Amen to that, the Worksharp gets is done in no time with a very reasonable edge. It doesn't do a mirror polish but it is close enough.

I also have a KME but it really is too time consuming to beat out the Worksharp.
Click to expand...
I learned a good trick with the Worksharp, take your used fine belt, the purple one, and with the machine running, load it up with polishing/stropping compound. It will give you a silly sharp edge
 
rcb2000 said:
I learned a good trick with the Worksharp, take your used fine belt, the purple one, and with the machine running, load it up with polishing/stropping compound. It will give you a silly sharp edge
Click to expand...

I will have to try that. Thank You Sir!
 
Can i ask a real noobie question?
One of the reasons my knives see less use than i desire is that i am scared of ruining the edge as i dont know how to sharpen them. So i tend to use my cheaper collection like my schrades and similar because i dont really care as much...

Is it basically:
For no chips, and edges that are starting to lose their shaving sharp edge -use a stropm
If there are chips or harsher damage to the blade, then you use stones and coarse materials?
 
XtianAus said:
Is it basically:
For no chips, and edges that are starting to lose their shaving sharp edge -use a strop
If there are chips or harsher damage to the blade, then you use stones and coarse materials?
Click to expand...
Correct.
Don't be scared to use them, and the best way to get better at sharpening is practice practice practice.
Practice on your cheaper knives to develop the muscle memory and technique first.
 
Thanks man!

I'll have to get a worksharp or spyderco and try it on my schrade. It came with a pretty horrible edge and is even worse after getting some use around the house. So it couldnt get much worse haha
 
I've had good luck with a leather buffing belt for my work sharp- found on amazon (Not sure about links and the like here.... but just search for it on amazon, and you'll find what I'm talking about). The leather belt will polish up the edge pretty darn close to being mirror perfect if you use it right. My large blades are done exclusively on the worksharp now, with my nice folders done on the Edgepro, and my abuser folders done freehand on the worksharp, mainly to even out chips, etc. the worksharp has a little bit of a learning curve, but after the first or second blade, I got into the groove pretty well.
 
Niddhogg said:
I've had good luck with a leather buffing belt for my work sharp- found on amazon (Not sure about links and the like here.... but just search for it on amazon, and you'll find what I'm talking about). The leather belt will polish up the edge pretty darn close to being mirror perfect if you use it right. My large blades are done exclusively on the worksharp now, with my nice folders done on the Edgepro, and my abuser folders done freehand on the worksharp, mainly to even out chips, etc. the worksharp has a little bit of a learning curve, but after the first or second blade, I got into the groove pretty well.
Click to expand...
Nice! I'll check it out.
 
All my favorite knives are in this size range. If I can have a 5-7 inch knife and an ax or machete I am good.

My favorites, in order. Edit, I had some knives out tonight and decided to snap a picture, one of everything in order minus the Ash1. Pictures like this really helped me when I was getting into Busse.

SFNO
ASH1
SJTAC
Sarsquatch
Hell Razor
Tank Buster

They don't quite make the cut at just under 5'', but I also really like the SAR4 and new BAE.

 
Last edited:
Awesome suggestions and favourites. I would LOVE a SJTAC, and the ASH1 seems nearly as awesome
 
Niddhogg said:
I've had good luck with a leather buffing belt for my work sharp- found on amazon (Not sure about links and the like here.... but just search for it on amazon, and you'll find what I'm talking about). The leather belt will polish up the edge pretty darn close to being mirror perfect if you use it right. My large blades are done exclusively on the worksharp now, with my nice folders done on the Edgepro, and my abuser folders done freehand on the worksharp, mainly to even out chips, etc. the worksharp has a little bit of a learning curve, but after the first or second blade, I got into the groove pretty well.
Click to expand...

I use one on my harbor freight 1x30. Grit progression to a smooth side of the leather loaded with white paste..... Slicey
 
I use the Ken Onion Worksharp with the blade grinder attachment. You can get the strop kit for as well. Works really nice over the standard WS.
 
edit:

I figured I'd post the trip pics in a new thread. Here are my 5-7 inch blades. I only took the tank buster and a tiny Smiths diamond rod for touch ups. while any of these would be great the tank buster seams to be what I grab. swedg and sharp tip to get into anything, full belly seamed to work well for skinning, plenty heavy for chopping. I do think it's just about the max size and weight I would consider for long hikes though (7 - 8 miles and up), but even that is probably just based on how I feel that day.


 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top