What's your latest Schrade? END DATE 8/12

[Sauconian]

Roland,

Charlie may have more to add, but what I see is that from the general proportions of the knife and the fact that it has 5 pins, it appears to be a model 1000, 4-7/8" closed. It should have a blade etch which says 'INVINCIBLE'.

Also note that the bottom and shoulders of the tang are rounded off, and no longer have sharp edges. The edges of the swedge are also rounded.

The cutting edge of the blade should be even with, or slightly below the bottom of the tang, so this has blade loss near the tang.

Fran

 

[waynorth]

Roland, take a look at the grinds on the tangs in posts #784, and 792. Look at the sharp shoulders, the patinas. No edges are rounded or softened.
There were a few legendary guys who had the "eye", the "touch", who could clean a knife and keep those features, but I haven't seen anyone recently.

The above is an absolutely mint knife!
Below is a knife cleaned by Herbie Aycock - one of the best!

When you see it with the other knife, you can see the blade is down a bit. Viewed alone, it looks minty (the "wipes" on the blade are oil). None of the patterns I've referenced in this post are the same pattern, but I hope you all get the drift!

 

[fifths]

Content deleted to reduce thread congestion.

 

[rprocter]

Fran & Charlie, thank you. the comradeship and sharing knowledge by knife enthusiasts is one of the finest aspects of our hobby ! also no opportunity for boredom as there is always more to know and a continual "refining of the eye". i miss a lot when reading a knife, but when something is pointed out(like here), then i make another step towards being a more knowledgeable collector.
roland

 

[wannacollect]

Roland,

Charlie may have more to add, but what I see is that from the general proportions of the knife and the fact that it has 5 pins, it appears to be a model 1000, 4-7/8" closed. It should have a blade etch which says 'INVINCIBLE'.

Also note that the bottom and shoulders of the tang are rounded off, and no longer have sharp edges. The edges of the swedge are also rounded.

The cutting edge of the blade should be even with, or slightly below the bottom of the tang, so this has blade loss near the tang.

Fran

FRAN,
I EVEN KNOW THIS FROM MY OWN PERSONAL EXPEIRENCE, (THE ROOKIE THAT I AM), SOMETIMES SOME PHOTO'S CAN DECEIVE YOU, (PLAY TRICKS ON YOUR EYES). SHOOT SOMETIMES I SEE A LB8 ON FLEABAY AND I CAN'T EVEN TELL WHETHER IT'S BOLSTERS ARE BRASS OR NICKEL/SILVER. THIS IS DO TO LIGHTING, SHADE, OR GLARE, ETC. YES I DID RESTORE THIS KNIFE MYSELF TO AS VERY CLOSE TO THE ORIGINAL STATE AS POSSIBLE. WHEN I RECEIVED THE KNIFE IT DID NOT HAVE THE WORD "INVINCIBLE" ON THE BLADE. THE KNIFE SEEMED TO ME TO STILL HAVE THE ORIGINAL FINISH ON IT, BUT "INVINCIBLE" UNFORTUNATELY WASN'T THERE ANYMORE. I PERSONALLY THOUGHT THE BLADE ON THIS MODEL WAS 100% FULL, IT SURE DID LOOK THAT WAY TO ME AT LEAST.


HERE ARE SOME PICS AT DIFFERENT ANGLES TO CLEAR MY NAME & WORK A LITTLE, L.O.L.
TOP OF TANG OF PUSH BUTTON

NOW HERE THIS IS A SHADOW NOT ROUNDED OFF

IT STILL HAS A VERY CRISP SWEDGE. IT WAS THE MIRROR FINISH I RESTORED ON IT THAT THROUGH YOU OFF

 

[waynorth]

It's hard to see through all the smoke and mirrors here, so I thought I'd type large comic letters to aid in perceiving the words I am about to spew forth in the middle of the night when I can't sleep because of nightmares about not being able to see what it is I am looking at because it's not actually what it seems, or even what it is for that matter. There is truth hiding in the shadows and reflections somewhere, I am sure, but gosh darn if the reflectance off a dulled edge doesn't blind me with its blazing glory, and make me see the Holy Grail of Mintiness instead of the good lowly earth beneath my feet in which I hope to be replanted before this exercise in bombastity comes to a close.
The nebulous division between what it real and what is wishful thinking is being further blurred before your very eyes as you read this because the screaming script insists that you keep reading instead of thinking, and you won't be happy if you start to think anyway, so just believe in goodness and light because well shucks, I'm right in there believing it with you now take all those pictures of Washington and Lincoln and Jackson in your wallet and send them to me and I will dispose of them because they are the root of evil, and we don't want any evil here!! We just want The Dremelous Shine that signifies the arrival of the indeed Holy Grail!

 

[rprocter]

Wanna, i think you have done a skillful job of restoring the knife to close to mint like appearance. the official definition of "mint" includes the fact that no restoration other than wiping off the knife surface with a clean rag, has occured. to many collectors this differentiation is of paramount importance.
fortunately knife collecting can have many styles and preferences. some folks prefer the ultra clean look of a well restored shiny knife(i would not turn one down if price was reasonable), but need to be aware that the knife is now even further from mint.
Charlie, i could send ya some Kootenay garden herbs if ya think it might help ya sleep !!
roland

 

[wannacollect]

Waynorth,
I realy don't understand what you are trying to say to me. It sounds as if you are trying to cut me down or be mean to me, and I can't for any reason understand why. I choose the comic letters because, there easier on the eyes, easier to read, & I don't have to squint, plus, I also think there sort of neat, that's why we have script choices, that's all. I by no means at all tried to be disrespectful to anybody here, and I'm very sorry if ANYBODY took it that way. I honestly thought by the way people viewed my work it was of very inferior quality.
I thought I done a very good job restoring the knife back to the original state & finish. I have always respected everybody's opinion here and help. I never tried to hurt anybody's feelings intentionaly.
Bill.

 

[orvet]

Wanna,
You mentioned that you are a rookie to knife collecting.
I think you have made a common mistake that many rookies & ebay sellers make; shinny does not mean new or mint.

I dislike the term “mint.” “Factory Finish” would be a better be a better term. Often the knife has flaws in it, perhaps scratches on it and minor flaws, yet that is the way that knife comes from the factory. That is what we call “mint.”

The pictures you posted do not look like a mint knife to me. You said, “IT WAS THE MIRROR FINISH I RESTORED ON IT…” But how can you “restore” a mint finish to a knife that never had a mirror finish? The majority of the Schrade Cut Cos came with a glaze finish, which is far from a mirror finish. It looks more like the modern day Scotch Brite finish used by some manufacturers today.

For the serious collector who likes the knife to be as close to original as possible you have effectively reduced the value by 30%-50% depending on the collector. (BTW, I have found the serious collectors generally spend more money on their knives than the people who buy shinny knives).

When you look on ebay you will see that many people buy shinny knives. That is fine, and you can also see that shinny does sell. But, generally they do not sell to the serious collector who is concerned about the historical accuracy of the piece he is looking at to buy. When you polish a knife using anything but metal polish & a soft cloth, you have changed the finish of the knife and almost always soften the edges of the grinds, leaving your knife modified from the original factory finish.

Since we here in this forum share our knowledge with one another in hopes that we are all more knowledgeable collectors in the end, I feel it is important to point out to you and to others who read this forum that not all collectors feel as you do. That to polish a knife like you did, will decrease the value substantially for most collectors.
Many of us become enraged when we see a polished knife on ebay and the seller says it is “mint” or “cleaned to mint.” We just go a bit crazy. I have sent emails many times to about incorrectly listed or incorrectly described knives.

Waynorth was trying to make the same points with humor & sarcasm.

One last point of forum protocol, writing in all capitol letters and writing an entire post in oversize letters in analogous to yelling when talking to someone face to face. It is considered impolite in most forums. If you are having difficulties reading the normal size letters, your web browser should have a zoom feature at the bottom right-hand corner of your screen as well as on the tool bar.

BTW, your knife is beautiful, it is just not mint.

Dale

 

[wannacollect]

Orvet,
I now understand the true meaning of mint. My major mistake. I assumed "Mint" meant in perfect condition or in "Pristine" shape. I never called my "Push Button" "MINT". Nor did I capitalize for the purpose of yelling. I always capitalize for my ad's or anything I do. It just looks more profesional and and is easier. My sister worked for over 40 years for the largest R.R. here in the U.S. in there Main office on a computer and they only used capital letters, nothing else. I also didn't see anything wrong with making the letters a little easier to read while leaning back in your comp. chair. I never could see why on fleabay ad's they would advertise so small and try to jumble it all up in one lump. (Polished Finish) I have seen very many Sch. Cut.Co. knives that were original "Mint" "Polished on the front and crocus on the rear. The main blade was polished and the others not. A lot of the little two blade "Push Buttons" were done that way correct? There was one "Scout knife" knife I restored & showed quite some time back that I put a crocus finish on the front but the 1926 catalog said it should of been "Polished". I can't see what is wrong with restoring a knife to it's pristine "orininal" state. Why is this so wrong? If there are no changes done except for major stain (Patina) & scratch removal, minor rust & pitting removal, dirt, grime, etc., etc.? I throughly restored a 1966 Chevelle two dr. hardtop to win many rewards. I would not leave the car with rust or bad carpeting, door panels or a engine that needed rebuilt. I again want to say I RESPECT all of you and DID not mean to offend Waynorth like it seemed I have done. I'm sorry

 

[waynorth]

First off, I am very protective of the knowledge we share here! I learned, and continue to learn by trying to remain humble before the knowledge. I try not to leap into the limelight, bragging about my accomplishments, until I have done my homework!
I am not afraid of being called a fool, I gladly accept the accolade when it applies, but I am DEATHLY afraid of steering someone wrong.
Humility is always required to learn anything; humility, and the ability to let go of ego.
A lot of terms are being used here that have no basis in fact. Here are a few things that everyone who seriously wants to collect OLD knives must know. It is by no means a complete list, and I always welcome sensible debate.
The finishes;
A Crocus finish IS the mirror polish finish. A fine iron oxide powder is the main ingredient in doing a Crocus finish. Done right, it is like a mirror, with no "orange peel" or wavey reflections. Schrade typically Crocus polished the mark side of the main blade, and often added an etch. The factory finish CANNOT be restored. A blade can be repolished, but then it is YOUR finish, not a factory finish!! Personally, I'd rather have 10% of the factory finish left, than 100% of a new finish! A new finish destroys All of the original character, all of the original design, all of the original cutler's work, and leaves the steel in another form.
Glaze finish: Glaze finish is a non-polished finish, characterized by use of a fine grit, and leaves a striated appearance of fine parallel lines. All the rest of the blade sides on a typical old Schrade knife were done this way. It is way less difficult and expensive (in terms of labor, and materials, than a crocus polish. The lines are typically perpendicular to the blade spine, or main axis. Less expensive knives may have a glaze finish on all faces (often a Boy's jack would be all Glaze).
Again, you do not restore a glaze finish! You refinish the knife, losing the original finish!!
Cleaning a knife should mean rubbing the dirt off of it with an oily soft cloth, and other minimally invasive steps. To my painful regret, it has come to mean ignorant or greedy people polishing the crap out of a knife, and selling it to foolish people.
How many great historical knives have been ruined this way?? I shudder to think!
When you really study the great old cutleries, and their beautiful work, you realize that very few places in the world are capable of achieving the same handcrafted beauty!
Then the next conclusion is, it is a worthy cause to preserve that history, lest we forget what is humanly possible.

 

[Sauconian]

I throughly restored a 1966 Chevelle two dr. hardtop to win many rewards. I would not leave the car with rust or bad carpeting, door panels or a engine that needed rebuilt.

I've heard this analogy used before, by an ebayer who failed to note that a knife's backspring had been replaced.

While your car may be worth more in restored condition than rusty, it would be worth much more if it were in similar good condition and was all original. Many collectors would rather have an untampered with, less than perfect, original collectable, than something that has been 'restored'.

Spend a little time watching a show like Antiques Road Show, and see how often someone is told that their refinished furniture would have been worth three times as much with original finish ( even if shabby or damaged ), than it is with a new polish job on it.

Once something is restored, it's historical value is greatly diminished, and restoration of any antique or collectable is only acceptable when necessary to preserve it from total loss or ruin.

You have done quite a nice polish job on your knife, and if shiney is what pleases you, well....it's your knife. Just remember that what is taken away, can never be put back.

Further, any antique or collectable that has been restored or altered in any way should have that fact noted when ownership is transferred. To knowingly neglect to do so is fraud.

Regards,
Fran

 

[rprocter]

Imperial Pro-Hunter Stainless U.S.A big LB (with LB7 for comparison)

the sheath is huge and shows some age. any idea of age ? anyboby else got one ?
thanks, roland

 

[rprocter]

no need for duplicate posts, so check out this 1923(?) Schrade(?):
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=648671

roland

 

[thawk]

Good to see you won that knife Roland. It is a dandy. I like that handle material. Wondering how they jigged it, or if it was molded.

 

[ea42]

Ditto here Roland, you don't see many Oranges turning up:thumbup::thumbup:

Eric

 

[rprocter]

Re "Orange Lobster", i was the sole bidder, perhaps because the composition(plastic) handles are rather plain for a Lobster which usually has more interesting scales like ivory or stag.
roland

 

[orvet]

Here some of my recent additions:

1- A Craftsman version of a 194OT. From a yard sale today.
2- A 296Y with orange handles. From a trade with Tom.
3- A MA-5 fillet knife, also from Tom.

Dale

 

[brady806]

:thumbup:those are nice examples dale, like the orange!! yard sales are up my alley too----------brady

 

[ea42]

Great additions Dale! That's a heck of a lot nicer than anything I've found in a yard sale:thumbup::thumbup:

Eric