Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

This is turning into a great project!

What do you all think about nailing down the details of how this is getting sold, who the proceeds go to, etc.?
 
Bruce,

I read you load and clear on the anneal. I was just getting ready to email Nick about anneal temp. for 1084. I have had a difficult time finding published HT specs for 1084. I will send 'as-is' - about 60 Rc. You will need to grind down the surface because of the diamond Rockwell penetrator. Bruce, I will mark the set of two pieces that are the result of the HT I settled on. They are the two halves broke for grain analysis. Be sure to inspect the break and report your thoughts before altering those two pieces.

RL
 
Okay, I went through the process of experimenting with the jade scraps, learning how to grind this stuff, finishing up my last knife, and phycing myself up for this jade work. I'm deadly serious now, tanned , rested and ready (all prayers are welcome and encouraged).

This evening I begin work on the template for the liners to be profiled to. I will glass the liner cut-outs and grind the liner profiles, then dovetail after shaping the ivory. I will leave the ivory full thickness until after Dave tapers the tang. Dave will need to taper the tang through the front bolsters in order for the bolster, liner and scale dovetails to mate properly.

Here are pictures of the liners as they arrived to me from John and I have not yet grinded on them:

damascus_jade.jpg

jade_before_shaping.jpg


RL
 
Hi John,

I have a Loritone grinder for polishing stones - wish you had one, it would make polishing the jade a lot easier.

The Jade looks like the real thing, not just reconstituted stone. What is it - where is it from (Country of origin)?
Harry
 
The final jade polish should be done by the one of us best at that who has the proper equipment to do it.

The jade rock was donated by our very own Sean (Laredo7mm). He may be able to tell us were it originated from.
 
Hi John,

Actually the polish of the jade shouldn't be all that scarry . If it is natural jade, and even if it isn't, it should finish well through the 400- 600 grit grinds just fine. A wet towel to cool the jade should be enough, just go slow. Finish with whatever fine grit hand polish you use for the ivory and the jade should do equally well. A medimum grade polish on the polishing wheel (slow it down) should make everything polish togeather.

I wouln't like to see you taking the risk of trying to polish the jade as it appears in the last post - with the cut out. Drop it and its all scrap, if it is natural. However, if the polish is taking place after you have put the handle together with the ivory against the jade - the jade against the tang, it should be a breeze and turn out just as you picture it.

If I can easy your mind further, or you would like to know more about the nature of jade, just e-mail me.

Take the challenge - I think you will be glad you did. It's all outside the box at this point anyway.

Harry :( ;) :) :D
 
Because it is a take-a-part construction the final polish and buffing can be done seperately. If done as a whole the ivory may polish below the jade surface and comprimise final fit.

ROGER
 
Hey guys, the jade, as far as i know, is Siberian Nephrite Jade. When I used it on my Jade Fighter knife, I took it up to 1500 grit and it still DID NOT have a really nice shine to it. The shine on the Jade Fighter basically comes from the Briwax that I put on all of my knives.

I did not really try to buff it much since I was scared to drop the pieces and chip them. Diamond polishing paste (upto 13,000 or 50,000 grit) is what I was told would work for a natural polish.
 
Sean, thanks for that info about its origin.

Thanks to ol'John I have the diamond polish. I can either use my variable speed buffer or the dremel buffing wheel or by hand. We can worry about final jade finish later and because of the type construction (thanks to Dan's good advise) it does not have to be final finished by the assigned handle smiths.

RL
 
Yeah,I can just see that buffer grabbing the jade and shooting it at high velocity to the hardest target surface in the shop! A high velocity jade bullet. or,at a soft target,your eye. The diamond paste works well with a hard feldt bob or wheel. I used to use a Dremel,but most of the paste would get slung off,so I went to homemade wheels on a drillpress, with a lower speed setting on the DP. This is how I get a mirror polish on hard stuff.This is weird,Roger! I was typing my response while you was doing yours,and it fit in pretty good. You are most welcome,Roger. Roger! I didn't mean YOUR EYE, heaven forbid it happening to someone! Just a figure of speach.Bless you AND the horse you rode in on,Roger!
 
Don't worry. I won't be letting it get slung anywhere but damn it I want prayers and now!:eek:
 
Once you have taken it through the finest grit, 1500 should be just fine, use your variable speed buffer with a white muslin buffing wheel. There is a crocus base compound called Zam (available from any lapidary shop) that will put a pretty high shine to the jade. But to get the highest shine possible, do the finish polish with tin or chrome oxide. You can do it with a hand buff, or with a muslin wheel. Just mix a drop of water in about 1/4 teaspoon of the oxide and rub it onto the jade - then buff off by hand or with the soft wheel. (slow speed) It'll be a knockout.

Don't use the same wheel for the zam and the oxide.

I have some Zam and chrome oxide I could send for the job, if you like.

Harry
 
Harry, thanks for that. I have a long distance lapidary I think can supply that.

Sean, bless you! I hate to put poor ol'John through that cutting process again. We'll make this set work. I have already begun grinding it. Later; I need another beer.

Sean, I found that if I wet my ceramic belt by squeezing water upon it while running I can grind the jade and the belt retains the water for several minutes without having to re-wet. The jade remains cool if run at a moderate speed. However, the water saturating the belt tends to cause it to expand in length a little bit and also cause it to warp about its surface after the belt drys for a couple days. In that respect it is hard on belts but in another respect the belts do tend to last while using in this manor.

RL
 
Hi Roger,

"Necessity is the mother of all invention" or something like that. Sounds like the jade is going to be just fine. Add Lapidary to your resume.

I got your e-mail and complied - couldn't perform the function you asked, so just made some changes.

Thanks for the heads-up.

Harry
 
Squared up the ends and ground down some thickness to closer to 1/8th.

Plan to go fetch some glassing tomorrow.

All is well.

RL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top