Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

Dave ck my last e-mail to you
I'm not sure if you read the last post before it was was lost conserning this?

you can grind the tang and blade on the colb blade now and just the tang on the Template
then send the Blade to Roger for heat treat and the template to me
for handle work.

Roger did you read the post before it was lost concerning this?.

dang that's the bad thing about the the lost...a lot of needed info got lost.
did anyone happen to copy it down? :confused:
 
DAVE, John and all us feel the same. There is no pressure for quickness. Take your time and do it just the way you always have in the past. No problem. Just another piece of O1. That's all it is to you, okay. If you feel like you gotta do it and its not fun put it down and wait til you're ready. It is going to be superb.

Dan, yes I do believe I saw it. No problem on this end. Just let me know when things are thrown my way and what they are.

I hope someone made a copy of the thread too but I would be suprised. That's alot of printing. Oh well.

RL
 
Well I got em both tapered, will grind the blade tomorrow. What finish am I to bring it to before HT?

Dan I did not see your lost post so I'm glad you sent me a note. Keeping me on track can eat up a lot of anyone's time. :D I need to look at Michael's drawing to check how much ricasso there is; can't remember.
 
Dan,

Please take to 2000 grit.


Roger,

Please use Turco while heat treating.

Steve

PS I guess I'm all done :D
 
Sando said:
Dan,

Please take to 2000 grit.


Roger,

Please use Turco while heat treating.

Steve

PS I guess I'm all done :D
Click to expand...

Steve Dave asked that I'm Dan hahaha
2000 grit for heat treat :confused: :eek: :D
 
That Steve is a real funny guy. He's putting the final finish on. I think what he meant was "20" grit. :D
 
Dave, about 400 grit, absolute finest, on the blade. Any finer than that will be a waste of time. I'll harden it to 63 so Steve will have something to occupy his time with. Just kidding. I believe we figured on about 59 HRc.

RL
 
Outstanding Dave.

HEY HARRY: Guess what I found. I found a really nice piece of the damascus that I did not heat treat and had thrown in a draw and forgot about. I know its the same stock because I had written 'NICK'S' on both sides. It measures a good 1 1/2 inch by 5/8 inch wide. It is in the annealed condition and has lots of great figure on both sides. Email me your address.

Roger
 
:D :D :D

I suppose I deserved all that.

BTW, Roger do you have some Turco?

I just ordered some. Can't wait to try it on the carbon steels. My logic goes like this: Forge heating takes lots of practice. Oven heating is swell, but if you set the oven at 1550 it takes longer for the steel to reach critical than a 2200 degree forge. It would either develop more scale or not equalize. Turco sounds like the solution for us non-saltbath guys.

FWIW I have done 52100 in the oven and it was fine. .... I just think too much.

Steve
 
Steve, I have a gallon of NO-CARB by Park Metallurgical. I do not use it because it is more difficult to remove it after HT than it is to grind off the shallow decarb. Bruce Bump is using a product from Brownell's that he says washes off with water after HT. There should be very shallow decarb and maybe no scaling after quench without the stuff.

My immediate thought is that Dave receive the blade for belt grinding, with 400 grit, to remove decarb before blade finishing is done by you. What do you all think?

Let us know how you like using the truco.

RL
 
I only grind to 120 and heat-treat. Sometimes I only grind to 60x, knock off all sharp corners with a 120x and heat-treat.

Say you grind this blade thin enough pre-hardening that you only need to hit it with a 400 grit belt after hardening to be ready for hand-sanding (that's pretty dang thin)...what if you have some warping?

I'm sure not trying to say the way I do it is right and this is wrong...just sounds like too much work this way. As far as saving work on grinding after hardening..with ceramic belts this stuff grinds easily.

Just some thoughts ;)
Nick
 
Too Late!

Naw, just kidding. :D

Frankly I usually take everything to 400 before HT and count on prayer and my fine karma to get me through the warping risk. Works okay for the most part. :p I really, really hate grinding to shape on hardened steel. I do use ceramic belts through 220 then switch to Norax. I guess I could give that a try - maybe stop at 220? then take it to 400 after HT.

Since the weekend is blown it's gonna be Friday before I get a chance to grind the blade, so there's plenty of time to work this out. Personally, whatever Nick says is my gospel. (Except I'm not grinding from 60 after HT, no matter if he bends my arm behind my back. I mean it! That's just mean. :D ) Dan I'll get the other one out to you tomorrow.

Having fun but now it's time to go (take a nap while we) listen to our Sunday symphony downtown. <yawn> Later gators,
 
Dave, I am ordering two or three gallons of Tough-Quench. Let's test her out. Take her to 400.

RL
 
Dan, you got it. (Haven't mailed it yet.)
Roger, you got it. 400 and good karma & the magic dance it is.
 
Dave, if you dance naked while grinding, it must work really good! My wife won't let me try that, so I have to do my grinding the old mundane way. Your magic works on your grinds, big guy! Ummm, what do you do about stray sparks, or do they just make you dance wilder? Sorry, Dave, I just hadda do it. You do great knife work, naked or not. Last time you was grinding, 3 old neighbor widows were peeking in your shop windows, though. One of them had a video camera going. For a home tutorial, I'm sure.
 
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