Who Would Be Interested In Doing A Collaboration Classic Hunter With Me??

Im still standing by. Yep I saw the display case and fully approve. I havent heard from Harry so maybe he is out of the picture. He hasnt logged on here for some time. Lets kick this project up a notch and get it done. Bruce
 
I thought I had gotten an email from Harry about a week after Christmas and sure enough I still have it. Although he has not heard from me since nor I from him, in his email he stated that everything was still pretty much boxed up waiting to move into the newly constructed house and also there had been some other difficulties mixed in not related to the knife. Thankfully I still have the email address he mailed me from.

Dan, I wonder about how the bolsters can be adjusted. You da man though. I would guess stabilizing the ivory at this late stage might cause a lot of harm. Chances are they would warp in stabilizing. I like your decision on soaking them. Can you guess at how many mil gap there is between bolster and scales? I do remember they were not air tight but did not have obvious gapping to the eye. Darn, I hope I didn't hog them too hard. I tried to go slow. If all else fails I'll remake them. Let us know your true thoughts.

RL
 
rlinger said:
Dan, I wonder about how the bolsters can be adjusted. You da man though. I would guess stabilizing the ivory at this late stage might cause a lot of harm. Chances are they would warp in stabilizing. I like your decision on soaking them. Can you guess at how many mil gap there is between bolster and scales? I do remember they were not air tight but did not have obvious gapping to the eye. Darn, I hope I didn't hog them too hard. I tried to go slow. If all else fails I'll remake them. Let us know your true thoughts.

RL
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The only way to shorten the distance from bolster to bolster now is to remove from the back side of the bolsters, being dove tailed this will work but in turn it will take away from the width of the handle at the bolsters..which is not a big problem as I see it.

no big worries so far Roger
where they are dove tailed and at an angle they will slide down a little to fill the small gap end to end (this is what will make the spine side a little short,)
the profile could have been left a little fat but we didn't know that they would shrink. you did a great job fitting, no faults there,
a little refitting of the bolsters
will do the trick if I need to..this is one of the reasons I like the angles of dove tailing, I just want the scales to do what they want and stop before I poke the holes.
one thought
will the Mineral oil bother the glass bedding in the jade Roger?
I'm thinking not, I just want to make sure where I haven't used it before..
I want to wet them in the oil, place the scales in place then soak them.
WE COOL :)
 
I don't think the mineral oil will have any effect on the 'glas., either. I haven't found any oil that has any effect on the stuff.
 
John Andrews said:
I don't think the mineral oil will have any effect on the 'glas., either. I haven't found any oil that has any effect on the stuff.
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Tx John I thought as much
 
OK update.. guys
I took some time today and got most of my end done.

the ivory is drilled and counter bored for the alignment/hold down pins.
and the pins are fitted..

the two center pins are at different lengths because of the tapered tang and thinness of the ivory ( because of the thickness of the jade) the counter bore into the Ivory is .050
at a later date I can counter sink the bark side of the ivory for the Gold plated screws if anyone thinks it will look better.. but the more it's bored out the less the head of the screws have to hold down on, we have some to work with.

DAN K do you want to do the assembly paper on it?
there should be one made, to properly take down and put this back together..you never know who will end up with it.

this thing is pretty close fitting so some pusher screws will help in removing the pins until they loosen up some from take down wear..

I'll do some rounding of the spine and it needs a little work at the finger guard
basically a transition point for the relief of the bolsters and jade..

Roger you are getting this back right? before anyone else??
I'll ship the other project we have going with it also, I have that done.. :)
 
Cool Dan and yes - I should get it back first to fiinsih the handle work. I am a bit at a lose though about what you say concerning the gold plated screws. Are saying we are not able to use them now because they are too thickly plated to sink deep enough into the ivory? Please re-transmit that part of message.

Thanks for the update and I know things have been very pressing for you lately.

RL
 
rlinger said:
Cool Dan and yes - I should get it back first to fiinsih the handle work. I am a bit at a lose though about what you say concerning the gold plated screws. Are saying we are not able to use them now because they are too thickly plated to sink deep enough into the ivory? Please re-transmit that part of message.

Thanks for the update and I know things have been very pressing for you lately.

RL
Click to expand...

on the contrary, the plated screws fit better, the heads are a few thousands smaller than the other temporary screws. they fix the counter sunk holes better.

what I'm saying
ivory left,the material left for the screws to hold down on
we have the thickness of the ivory.
less the .050 bore for the pins to align in, on the back side..
if I counter bore to sink the screw heads like I did on the bolsters it will leave that much less meat to hold on to.
I think I will do it anyway just a little to make it look better.
I'll send the blank back to you also,, I think you'll need it to finish up the profile of the bolsters . ivory and jade.
also if you round over the joints just a tad it will help if when the ivory moves..
I did see that the crack in the ivory goes all the way through we may have
to let the mineral oil dry up some and put the Supper glue to it. shouldn't be a big problem,
I didn't have to bake the Ivory,, soaking while bound seemed to work well.

one thing I really think that would make this look a bit better , is
shaping the front of the front bolsters some.. it just looks like it's plain and flat if you know what I mean.

what do you guys think?
I gave the blade a light etch I just had to see it together that way. :D
 
Okay Dan, where's the pic of the steel etched? :D I did see what you're talking about on the bolsters and I agree they would look better if the face was swept back a bit.

Now I want to see a picture of it assembled! Get on the stick! (Please. ;))
 
Sure, I'll contour the bolster faces since you suggest that. I should be able to dove tail the faces if you think that okay. If so, what angle do you suggest? In addition I would knock the sharp edges off too. What do you think best?

Since you say there is a ivory crack I should fill it don't you think? Super glue should fill it well(?).

Absolutely do please send the blank also. In addition to using it for handle finish work Pop will use it to help him inlet the box floor for the real knife. I do need the blank back. When finished with it I will remember it belongs to you.

Thanks for all your good work Dan. I may be calling on you for further advise after receiving the knife back.

RL
 
rlinger said:
Sure, I'll contour the bolster faces since you suggest that. I should be able to dove tail the faces if you think that okay. If so, what angle do you suggest? In addition I would knock the sharp edges off too. What do you think best?

Since you say there is a ivory crack I should fill it don't you think? Super glue should fill it well(?).

Absolutely do please send the blank also. In addition to using it for handle finish work Pop will use it to help him inlet the box floor for the real knife. I do need the blank back. When finished with it I will remember it belongs to you.

Thanks for all your good work Dan. I may be calling on you for further advise after receiving the knife back.

RL
Click to expand...

Roger, AOK on the contouring of the bolsters
but I'm not sure what you mean, dove tail the face of the Bolsters?
contouring a bit should add a lot to it, matching the front to the back a little
better.
I can knock a little off from them.
yes some glue won't hurt it for sure..you'll see a place on the upper right front that could use some filling also..

ok on sending the blank back, I'll ship the reg screws too so the gold ones will see less wear and tear while you work on it
with two longer screws to help to take it apart as push rods
you just need to screw them in some first so the threads won't get damaged.
I'm sure you know this anyway, but I mention it for others looking..
I'll chamfer the screw head bores also,
once you get to finishing the bolsters up a good buff in the holes should round them out nicely
or if you have a better way,,,,,,,,,,,, go for it.. :)

Dave I'll see if I can get some reasonable pictures..
I didn't etch it deep at all, mostly to darken it. man the protruding tapered spine looks nice this way darkened and rounded. :)
with a deep etch it will be a sweet touch..this will be busy but not if to know what I mean..

To who gets to etch this (I can't remember who?) I'm thinking a resist added to where the handle material sets would be good untill the rest is almost done..
then a light over all etch for looks under the handle,

we need to make sure NO etching happens inside the holes we don't what the holes to enlarge at all..

let me know what you all think? changes ? OK ? not ? ideas ? :)
 
Dan, once again I use poor choice of words. I ment or should have said, instead of dove tailing, I could angle the face of bolsters at what ever angle you might suggest (as if you were dove tailing the back end of bolsters). Instead they can be contoured in an arc as you mention the back bolsters are. Make the front arc face match that of the rear bolsters(?). Is that what you ment? If so; done.

EDIT: Dan, how could you forget our patriarch. Bruce Bump is etching the blade, that is if we get it ready before he expires. :eek:

RL
 
Quote: Dan, how could you forget our patriarch. Bruce Bump is etching the blade, that is if we get it ready before he expires. :eek:


I am getting old but I figure ya still have a few years :)
 
I thought that might roust that ol'ground hog out of his hole :) .

Bruce, that cheap abuse of you was just my way of indicating that if things go much longer we're going to have to train our grandchildren to take over. I have been laughing, at your good natured but by now furious nature, for a half hour. I include myself above all in this. I remember well that I pretty much set on my part for 2 or maybe 3 months. It was just a bad time when there was no time.

RL
 
rlinger said:
I thought that might roust that ol'ground hog out of his hole :) .

Bruce, that cheap abuse of you was just my way of indicating that if things go much longer we're going to have to train our grandchildren to take over. I have been laughing, at your good natured but by now furious nature, for a half hour. I include myself above all in this. I remember well that I pretty much set on my part for 2 or maybe 3 months. It was just a bad time when there was no time.

RL
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:eek: :D I remember now :D that's bruces job..
I know about the time thing..
I need to stop giving time away..BUT IT'S much more fun... :)
 
ok tell me what you think?
it's ready for you Roger
in case you guy lost this
http://www.knivesby.com/collaboration.html :)
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collaboration2.JPG

mounted on the blank before the jade was taken down by Roger
 
It looks awesome so far! No visible gaps. Cool damascus pattern too. You may want to counter bore the scales deep enough to bury the screw heads. When does it go to Walla Walla?
 
Bruce Bump said:
It looks awesome so far! No visible gaps. Cool damascus pattern too. You may want to counter bore the scales deep enough to bury the screw heads. When does it go to Walla Walla?
Click to expand...

Bruce they are couter bored now but very little as mentioned
the back side is also couter bored at .050 for the pins so because of the thin ivory , it's even thinner under the heads now..they can go deeper
at any time, but I'd like to see this compleated first then if everyone wants it done deeper AOK with :)

there is a small gap at one of the dove tailed ends as Roger mentioned
the only way ( keeping what we have ) to fix it would be to take the flat
back side of the dove tailed bolster down, efetivly closing the gap..I'll let roger make the call on that

Roder the package left yesterday by USPS. you should have it monday..
 
SUPER!! Great photography. Someone correct me but I think from me it goes to Steve and from Steve to Bruce(?).

RL
 
rlinger said:
Someone correct me but I think from me it goes to Steve and from Steve to Bruce(?).

RL
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don't know
yes to start with but there isn't much else Steve can do to it I don't think? other than the only thing I can think of is up under the finger cutout
there are a few grinding marks,, I was going to remove those but forgot to.. I may have gotten carried away finishing up the outer profile :(
sorry I couldn't help myself.. :( look it over and make that call when you see it I guess..
 
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