Work Sharp (belt grinder) Knife Sharpener

khtima said:
Yes brother, an e-mail. Google translator sometimes wrote nonsense)))
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Cool!

If from your previous post when free-running - the belt is in the center and not touching the guide housing -
then the contact probably is during the grinding.

So a few more questions:
1) is the guide housing seating firm? Some of us have found the kitchen guide to fit loosely on the screw/stud - which means it probably has to be tightened.
1a) if the seating is not firm, do you hold on to the housing, or does it actually move when grinding?
2) do you push the blade either into the belt, or down into the guide?

--
Vincent

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UnknownVT said:
Cool!

If from your previous post when free-running - the belt is in the center and not touching the guide housing -
then the contact probably is during the grinding.

So a few more questions:
1) is the guide housing seating firm? Some of us have found the kitchen guide to fit loosely on the screw/stud - which means it probably has to be tightened.
1a) if the seating is not firm, do you hold on to the housing, or does it actually move when grinding?
2) do you push the blade either into the belt, or down into the guide?
Click to expand...

Sorry brother, but unfortunately did not understand. Sometimes Google takes ill. I used only the parts that were in the box with the sharpener. Nothing else. Maybe I pushed the tape when the sharpened tip of a knife. Yesterday I was still practiced in sharpening, and to come to the conclusion that I need to sharpen my knives without guide. I tried to sharpen a few folding knives, and the ability to sharpen the tip turned out bad knife. He jumped down from the guides. I need some advice as to sharpen without a guide and just keep sharpening angle.
 
Have any of you guys run across a loud screeching sound from your WS? I've only had mine for about 2 months and it started making that sound about a mnth ago. I already tried centering the belt but no luck. It sounds like it's coming from the wheel attached to the motor. I really like this rig and hope it gets worked out.
 
jsp said:
Have any of you guys run across a loud screeching sound from your WS? I've only had mine for about 2 months and it started making that sound about a mnth ago. I already tried centering the belt but no luck. It sounds like it's coming from the wheel attached to the motor.
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Does it make that sound without a belt attached?

--
Vincent

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http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
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Yes. I even took off the cassette thingy to try and isolate the sound. I emailed WS and they said that if I adjust the belt and it still is making the noise to return it to Amazon for a replacement.
 
They don't seem to make a 220V version for the european market. Too bad. I know you can run it on 12V with a converter for 110V output, but nah thx. I so would have gotten this machine otherwise.
 
stoffi said:
They don't seem to make a 220V version for the european market. Too bad. I know you can run it on 12V with a converter for 110V output, but nah thx. I so would have gotten this machine otherwise.
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I bought a 240V=>110V transformer so I could use my WS in New Zealand - it works fine that way.
 
stinkyspice said:
i wouldn't mind if it was a half convex but i was wandering if that worked?? like to 3 passes on the ground side and then one on the flat side??
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I can't see why not. I think my only chisel grind blade is the one on my LM Squirt and that is convexed on one side - nice & sharp too.
 
stinkyspice said:
i wouldn't mind if it was a half convex but i was wandering if that worked?? like to 3 passes on the ground side and then one on the flat side??
Click to expand...
For a chisel grind, I would recommend only using a high grit polishing belt for the flat side(6000 or higher). A P220 will quickly make the other side convex as well, which wouldn't look that great on a chisel ground blade. Though the edge of the flat side would show a polished look, so if that bothers you I would just run the flat side along a Spyderco UF ceramic, a steeling rod, and/or a block of wood to break off the burr.
 
Ok, so I picked up this Work Sharp Knife Sharpener over the weekend. I totally love it. However, still being a novice to the knife world, there are a few questions:

a) How long should each belt last? Can some rinsing and washing extend their lives like normal sand paper?
b) $10 for 2 sets (coarse, medium, fine) is a bit steep. I know the profit margins are likely higher on these.. and I have no problems supporting that. However, for the box size, price and etc.. would 3 sets be asking too much?
c) I rolled the tips off my first two knives I sharpened. I'm so afraid of rolling the other tips that I'm just not touching them at all. I guess my hands aren't that steady. Other electric sharpeners with guides aren't anywhere as good as this one, but they at least haven't rounded off any tips. What can I do to adjust my drawing motion?

I'm now a total believer of the convex edge. It's probably impossible to make the one sharpener that satisfies everyone 100 percent, but this is pretty damn close.
 
Don, glad you're enjoying your WS.

a) You can get a belt cleaner (looks like a supersize gum eraser) cheap. I got mine for about $5 at Harbor Freight, using the 20% off coupon (and got a digital multimeter free with another coupon).

b) If you register your WS online at their website, they'll send you a set of the 3 standard belts for free. You could make good use of a few "in between" belts as well, maybe a couple of P400 or P600s, and a couple of 1800s: http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=116 Since they're already shipping you the set of free belts, maybe they'd put those in the same box for no additional shipping charge. The WS people are great---just call them.

c) Rounding the tips is the biggest danger with the WS, IMO. But there's a lot of good advice on how to avoid it in this thread, and in this one: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/765050-Work-Sharp-Knife-Sharpener That's a lot to read, but worth it if you want to really learn about the WS. Put on a pot of coffee, or chill an adult beverage if it's later in the day, and read 'em all.

This is a crude summary, but to avoid rounding the tip: tilt the knife handle up as you go through the belly; don't take the tip more than about 1/3 of the way onto the belt; release the motor switch as you get to the tip; and maintain a very light touch in the tip area. If you still round a tip (and I've rounded my share), the WS can also give you a head start on restoring it, which you may need to follow up with hand sanding/shaping. Note, though, that when using the WS to re-shape a tip, you'll build up more heat than with sharpening. You don't want to damage the knife's temper, so do it in short bursts and keep a cup of water close by to cool the blade with.

Andrew
 
AFAustin said:
Don, glad you're enjoying your WS.

a) You can get a belt cleaner (looks like a supersize gum eraser) cheap. I got mine for about $5 at Harbor Freight, using the 20% off coupon (and got a digital multimeter free with another coupon).

b) If you register your WS online at their website, they'll send you a set of the 3 standard belts for free. You could make good use of a few "in between" belts as well, maybe a couple of P400 or P600s, and a couple of 1800s: http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=116 Since they're already shipping you the set of free belts, maybe they'd put those in the same box for no additional shipping charge. The WS people are great---just call them.

c) Rounding the tips is the biggest danger with the WS, IMO. But there's a lot of good advice on how to avoid it in this thread, and in this one: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/765050-Work-Sharp-Knife-Sharpener That's a lot to read, but worth it if you want to really learn about the WS. Put on a pot of coffee, or chill an adult beverage if it's later in the day, and read 'em all.

This is a crude summary, but to avoid rounding the tip: tilt the knife handle up as you go through the belly; don't take the tip more than about 1/3 of the way onto the belt; release the motor switch as you get to the tip; and maintain a very light touch in the tip area. If you still round a tip (and I've rounded my share), the WS can also give you a head start on restoring it, which you may need to follow up with hand sanding/shaping. Note, though, that when using the WS to re-shape a tip, you'll build up more heat than with sharpening. You don't want to damage the knife's temper, so do it in short bursts and keep a cup of water close by to cool the blade with.

Andrew
Click to expand...

a) I'll look into it.
b) Will definitely, definitely register my sharpener :D. Need to get some info when I get home.
c) You're right.. that's a long read. Can't do it at work, but perhaps later tonight.

As for the crude summary, that's genius. I should practice turning the switch off as I get close to the tip. Don't know why I didn't think of this before. I definitely tilted the knife down thinking it'd sharpen the tip nicely (ofcourse, I overdid it). I think that with time, I can get pretty good with this.

Thanks for the advice brother.
 
TEFL0N_D0N_81 said:
c) I rolled the tips off my first two knives I sharpened. I'm so afraid of rolling the other tips that I'm just not touching them at all. I guess my hands aren't that steady. Other electric sharpeners with guides aren't anywhere as good as this one, but they at least haven't rounded off any tips. What can I do to adjust my drawing motion?
Click to expand...

AFAustin said:
c) Rounding the tips is the biggest danger with the WS, IMO. But there's a lot of good advice on how to avoid it in this thread, and in this one: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/765050-Work-Sharp-Knife-Sharpener That's a lot to read, but worth it if you want to really learn about the WS. Put on a pot of coffee, or chill an adult beverage if it's later in the day, and read 'em all.
Click to expand...

TEFL0N_D0N_81 said:
c) You're right.. that's a long read. Can't do it at work, but perhaps later tonight.
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Glad you're able to read that long thread which is well worth reading......
perhaps to save you some time there is a simple summary about avoiding grinding off the tip earlier (Sept/2) in this thread in Post #80 ; then Posts: #145 ; #207

I'll just paste in the most recent one from Post #207

UnknownVT said:
Please forgive the repetition:

Re: grinding off the tip:

Basically stop when the blade tip is just fully on the belt helps mitigate the problem -

A light touch is the key - with or without the guide one can see how far the blade is pulled through - slow down when nearing the tip, and stop once the tip is fully on the belt (ie: stop when the blade tip reaches the position shown in diagram below) -
do NOT under any circumstances press or push the blade or exert any pressure into the belt.


GrindTip.jpg


Yes, one should try to keep the edge perpendicular to the belt at all times - this means when reaching the belly and eventually the tip the blade should be lifted at the back so that the "sight picture" (for want of a better term) should look kind of like the drawing above.

A light touch (no exerted pressure) and care toward the tip moving the blade so that it presents the edge perpendicular to the belt - will help remove any danger of grinding off the tip.

from Post #80 (Sept/2) earlier in this thread

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...


--
Vincent

http://picasaweb.com/UnknownVincent?showall=true
http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.multiply.com/photos
 
How do y'all think this would work for restoring straight razors? I found a few in my folks garage and am eager to start a new project
 
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