Work Sharp (belt grinder) Knife Sharpener

UnknownVT said:
It's the weekend now, and also Monday is Columbus Day - a holiday in the USA
- earliest response might not be until Tuesday.
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Here is the response of the manufacturer:

"... You belt is not centered onto the pulley flanges. The front pulley has two flanges, one on each side.
The belt needs to be inside of these flanges or it will grind against the plastic.
Be sure the belt is properly mounted onto the pulleys (inside the flanges) and centered on the top bearing before mounting a sharpening guide or sharpening.
This should ensure you do not grind into the sharpening guides. ...."


I figured out the problem. Belt has been installed correctly. When sharpening the tip, I pressed a knife on a tape and she moved. I thought that the guide will not let me push harder than necessary. me offered to send a replacement has not yet learned that I live in Russia)))
 
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khtima said:
I figured out the problem. Belt has been installed correctly. When sharpening the tip, I pressed a knife on a tape and she moved. I thought that the guide will not let me push harder than necessary. me offered to send a replacement has not yet learned that I live in Russia)))
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Glad you figured out the problem.

From all reports I have read Work Sharp have a very good customer service/relations.

Since you have now corrected the problem -
the actual sharpener was not at fault -
only your guide is damaged -
perhaps you should tell Work Sharp that -
they may still send you a new guide to replace your damaged one
even to Russia?

--
Vincent

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UnknownVT said:
Glad you figured out the problem.

From all reports I have read Work Sharp have a very good customer service/relations.

Since you have now corrected the problem -
the actual sharpener was not at fault -
only your guide is damaged -
perhaps you should tell Work Sharp that -
they may still send you a new guide to replace your damaged one
even to Russia?

--
Vincent

http://picasaweb.com/UnknownVincent?showall=true
http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
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I'm not sure that they would agree to go to Russia.
 
Please contact us directly and we can work with you to arrange shipping you a new sharpening guide.
 
I wrote an e-mail. If it works would be great.

I have more questions about this sharpener, and I'll be glad to get any help. I love knives tanto. I hone today is one such knife, and was dissatisfied with the result. I was sharpening a long first part and then short. The photo shows that the angle between them was round. How do I fix this?

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khtima said:
I love knives tanto. I hone today is one such knife, and was dissatisfied with the result. I was sharpening a long first part and then short. The photo shows that the angle between them was round. How do I fix this?
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Rounding off the defined edge corner/angle of the tanto is similar to rounding or grinding off the tip.

On your pic you have no trouble with the tip -
so how did you do that?

Most probably because you stopped once the tip was fully on the belt and you did not rotate the blade, right?

Then probably the same should be applied for the defined corner/angle on the tanto edge.
(the reason why the corner/angle is rounded was probably because you rotated the blade on the running belt to hone the front edge - don't do that).

The idea is to treat the tanto as two separate edges - the main (long) edge, and the front edge.

Keep the edge perpendicular to the belt - use very light pressure, when the corner is just fully on the belt - STOP.

Do NOT rotate the blade on the running belt to hone the front edge.

Then place the front edge on the belt and hone that short length, as if it was a separate edge.
That way the corner/angle will remain defined, like the tip.

Since you have already rounded the corner/angle - if you want to fix it - then you probably need to re-profile the blade edge by grinding more, possibly using the green coarse P80 belt to do that
(however I'd try the red medium P220 belt first to see if that would work) -
but just be careful and take it easy - as the green coarse P80 belt can remove steel very quickly.

If in doubt - practice - move the blade like you were grinding - BUT with the belt NOT running.
When you think you have that down - then do it for real with the belt running.....

Hope that helps.

Please let us know how you get on?

--
Vincent

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I sharpen each part separately. But unfortunately the tape covers the guide. because of this hard to see when to stop. I will exercise more, and Tell what happens.

UnknownVT said:
Please let us know how you get on?
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Brother, I do not understand what you're asking.
 
Holy cow, is that the edge finish left using just the included 6000!! If so, I am going to be satisied with "just" that!

(course i'll still try finer grits :) )
 
Is anyone still looking at doing a buy of micro mesh belts ? My WS is on the way from the US but I would also like to stock up on some grades that are not included with the kit.

Thanks

Andy
 
On another forum, there was concern expressed over the WS causing damage to the final cutting edge through the process called Draw Temper (where in in the micro cutting edge loses its hardness due to over heating).

I don't think it's an issue. There's a mathematical formula for deducing edge heat when using a mechanical sharpener: Temp= speed (in feet per minute) / 2.

But, I couldn't find the belt speed specs anywhere...SO i'm going to look into it further.
 
There's some very useful information here.
I'm thinking about buying one of these to try (I'm in the UK and cannot find a dealer here, so would need to import from the US).
I have a couple of questions; apologies if these have already been covered in one of the many previous posts.
1. From watching the videos, it appears when using a guide, as though it would be difficult to sharpen the heel of a small folder where the handle is close to the back of the blade. Does this device sharpen right to the heel of a small folding knife?
2. Is it possible to obtain third party belts (such as a leather belt for honing) in this small size?
Many thanks!
 
1. From watching the videos, it appears when using a guide, as though it would be difficult to sharpen the heel of a small folder where the handle is close to the back of the blade. Does this device sharpen right to the heel of a small folding knife?

With the kitchen (closed) guide, it is tricky to reach the heel of a small folder, unless the blade tang is very thin. But, it's no problem with the field (open) guide. And, of course, you can always free hand it.

2. Is it possible to obtain third party belts (such as a leather belt for honing) in this small size?

You can get 1/2" x 12" Micro-Mesh belts in many grit levels here: http://micro-surface.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=273_197&products_id=91. Also, Work Sharp now sells belts in some "in between" grits on their website: http://www.worksharptools.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=116 Don't know about overseas shipping, though.

As for leather belts in this size, not yet, but stay tuned....

Andrew
 
hey guys i have a ws and used it with success many times... but for some reason i cannot get my scrapyard deregulator sharp on it. it is a really thick blade but it should still be getting sharp.. scrapyard said that the angle starts at 22 deg and turns into a convex edge from the factory.. i started on the p220 and went up from there holding it at about a 20 degree angle.. and i am not even getting a paper cutting edge... but the edge feels toothy.. any suggestions on how to get this monster of a blade sharp?
 
stinkyspice said:
but for some reason i cannot get my scrapyard deregulator sharp on it. it is a really thick blade but it should still be getting sharp.. scrapyard said that the angle starts at 22 deg and turns into a convex edge from the factory.. i started on the p220 and went up from there holding it at about a 20 degree angle.. and i am not even getting a paper cutting edge... but the edge feels toothy.. any suggestions on how to get this monster of a blade sharp?
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Are you getting a distinct burr when you hone with the P220 belt?
you should be able to feel the burr by dragging your finger along the blade face and over the edge on the opposite side to that you were grinding/honing.

If not, perhaps you are not honing/reaching the actual final edge itself.

If you cannot feel the burr -
then use a marking pen and color the entire edge - and do a single pass over the belt -
then see if you have removed the marking all the way to the final edge.

If there is any color at the final edge it means you have not ground/honed enough to reach the actual final edge -
and you need to grind/hone more until that is reached -
in which case you ought to be able to feel the burr on the opposite side to the one you were grinding/honing.

Please let us know how you get on?

--
Vincent

http://picasaweb.com/UnknownVincent?showall=true
http://UnknownVincent.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.Shutterfly.com
http://UnknownVT.multiply.com/photos
 
stinkyspice said:
hey guys i have a ws and used it with success many times... but for some reason i cannot get my scrapyard deregulator sharp on it. it is a really thick blade but it should still be getting sharp.. scrapyard said that the angle starts at 22 deg and turns into a convex edge from the factory.. i started on the p220 and went up from there holding it at about a 20 degree angle.. and i am not even getting a paper cutting edge... but the edge feels toothy.. any suggestions on how to get this monster of a blade sharp?
Click to expand...
If you're holding it at a 20 degree angle that essentially means you're reprofiling the edge to a lower angle and so that will require some metal removal. I would recommend using the P80 belt carefully to do the bulk of the grinding(check to make sure the edge doesn't heat up too much). Once you feel that burr, you're ready to refine the edge and it should be sharp from there on.
 
Hey,
i see this thread it's very nice and useful but could be dangerous for a new ones,
but anyway thanks for this post about the belt knife sharpner....
blood sugar monitor
 
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Well, as with any powered sharpening tool, you can take a lot of material off fast. This one is milder than most, though, given the small size, and is fairly forgiving. I've been playing with one down at the place I sharpen on the weekends, actually, they received one as a demo unit. It's nowhere near as powerful, fast or easy as the Kalamazoo, but it also takes up a LOT less space and is much easier to pack around. The edge it creates isn't bad, if it had a good leather honing belt I think they'd REALLY be getting somewhere!
 
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