Okay, I am going to have to disagree with you. I got my 710 today (I will not buy any of the axis models on principle, but my curiosity got the best of me on the 710, and I will not be able to afford a sebenza really soon so I got one to try it out the "feel" of the blade.. and I actually do really like the feel of the blade so I am definitely going to buy a Sebenza.. funny that sanrenmu just made a sale for CRK for me) and I am not as impressed with it as I think some of you are
Now, cheap chinese imports were my personal gateway drug into knives, and so I have some experience with them. This one is very nicely done and VERY fast, but on BOTH of mine, there is a little bit of blade wobble. I tightened the pivot screw and it solved the issue but made the knife way too slow. It almost became a two handed opener. Now while I will still try it out, it gave me a somewhat blemished impression right off the bat.
Who knows, maybe I got two lemons, but I got what I paid for.. no more and no less. Imagine that
If you are mechanically inclined, here's a suggestion that might just work for your slightly slow 710.
Take it apart, and smooth down the washers with 600 grit wet-or-dry, or maybe use a scotch brite pad turned into a scotch brite wheel on a dremel tool to polish the washers. Better yet, use some of the green chromium oxide compound used for sharpening blades on a little buffer and buff those washers. Ditto for the pivot screw, with the dremel green compound buffer. Polish the inside of the pivot hole in the blade. The way I do this is taking a strip of 600 wet or dry and roll it up, and put it on the screw headed mandril for the dremel and polish the insides of the blade. Also buff the area on the liners where the washers make contact.
Clean everything up really well, say with alcohol, and then use some Slick 50 One Lube, or your favorite lube product, on the washers and where they make contact with the liner, and on the blade and inside the hole for the pivot. Put it all back together, and put a small amount of the blue loctite on the thread for the pivot screw. Tighten it until it's just a tad too tight to flick open, and then micro adjust it so the blade will barely flick open all the way. Let the loctite set, and after flick it open and closed for a while and see if it doesn't work just fine.
I figure if you want really high quality in terms of flickability, it's sometimes necessary to go to extra mile to get it. FWIW, very few of my knives were perfect when they came out of the box, and some still aren't. I'm talking about Benchmades and Emersons. Also, FWIW, while attending the Chicago Knife Expo a week ago, I had the opportunity to handle about 20 custom Strider knives, that were on display for perhaps an hour, before a dealer whisked them away from the Strider booth, having purchased all of them. Not a single one of those knives opened smoothly. I asked Josh about it, and he told me they had loosened them up a bit in the past, for a while only, but went back to the tighter configuration, because they didn't want the knives opening up in someone's pocket.
At another booth at the show, I had the opportunity to handle three or four Hinderer flippers. And not a single one of them would flip open completely. To get them to open, one started with the flip and added in a wrist snap.
If I owned a Hinderer, and if it wouldn't void the warranty, I'd work it over as mentioned above.
Long story short: you didn't get lemons, from what I read.
Folderguy