Zt 0392 SOUND OFF!

KLJTech said:
Okay, thank you. The Hinderer tool it is...
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I have taken several Hinderers apart using these security flat head bits:

v5cSi.jpg
 
Jasonsdman said:
Nice comparison pics. I didn't realize how heavy the stone wash on the Eklipse is until looking at your pics. The 0392 looks almost like bead blasted in comparison.
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Working finish is bead blast with a stonewash over it. The regular Eklipse is just stonewash. RHK doesn't usually put a Working Finish on production knives from what I've seen, so it's a little plus on the 0392.

I have to wonder, since the hardware is the same between the 0392 and the Eklipse, I wonder if the Ti scale from the 0392 would swap over to the Eklipse.
 
Lost Cosmonaut said:
Working finish is bead blast with a stonewash over it. The regular Eklipse is just stonewash. RHK doesn't usually put a Working Finish on production knives from what I've seen, so it's a little plus on the 0392.

I have to wonder, since the hardware is the same between the 0392 and the Eklipse, I wonder if the Ti scale from the 0392 would swap over to the Eklipse.
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I think the answer would be no, due to the cutout for the bearings. In fact I read that somewhere, but can't remember who said it. But it does make sense.
 
smuiradise said:
I think the answer would be no, due to the cutout for the bearings. In fact I read that somewhere, but can't remember who said it. But it does make sense.
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That makes sense...I'm sure your right. I hadn't thought about the caged bearings. Thanks.
 
Bludgeon said:
How do you guys stop from marring up the slot on pivot screw with a flathead screwdriver? Cover flat edge with elec tape?
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Use an appropriately sized screwdriver. I don't care if the inside of the slot gets marred (they already aren't perfect from the factory), but if you use a blade that's the right size and doesn't slip, it'll be fine.
 
smuiradise said:
I think the answer would be no, due to the cutout for the bearings. In fact I read that somewhere, but can't remember who said it. But it does make sense.
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Not only is the bearing cutout different, but so is the front of the handle by the pivot. The part that comes in contact with the bladestop is more prominent and "pointy" on the 0392 vs the Eklipse, and the part near flipper (when open) appears to be a little wider on the 0392 vs the Eklipse, so it wouldn't match the lock-side anyway unless you reprofiled it.

Anyway, 0198 checking in here! Turns out I successfully managed to get one from knifecenter :D. I wasn't sure about the order because the order number didn't show up in my account.

I really like the Eklipse/0392 design. When the Eklipse first debuted, the aggressive look and all the angles and curvature on the handle made me think the knife was super "tacticool" until I actually handled an Eklipse at a local dealer; the handle is actually quite ergonomic, and I grew to really like the design.

I think this is my second experience with the "working finish"...my first was with my old Benchmade Contego - I had stripped off the cerakote and then stonewashed the m4 blade, resulting in a very similar appearance to the "working finish" which makes sense considering the "working finish" is stonewash over a bead blast, and the Contego blade appeared to be blasted under the cerakote layer. I like the rough dull look of the working finish, but I think I prefer a plain old heavy stonewash...new scratches are going to show up bright and shiny, which IMO would blend in better with a plain old stonewash. Still, the rough look of the "working finish" just begs to be used (like my Contego did before it got stolen), so in the pocket it goes!
 
Tasmaniac said:
I just found this thread which was was really helpful. You need a #10 spanner. I wish I had done some more research before buying a Hinderer tool for my XM-18.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/736023-Spanner-bit-size-for-Hinderer-XM-18
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Not sure you read the whole thread thread you linked to but as I said earlier, a #12 spanner is what you need (or it sounds like a 14 if you work on it with some sandpaper). I've tried a 10 and the gap is to small and didn't fill the slot well. Most of the time people muck up flatheads is because they are using the wrong size of wrench. Fill the gap and it won't slip. Photo evidence below ;-)

 
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thanks.

Are the bearings wearing a groove? mine has gotten smoother, but not quite glassy like my 777, I wonder if the races or the coarseness of the working finish have more influence.
 
euthymic said:
Not sure you read the whole thread thread you linked to but as I said earlier, a #12 spanner is what you need (or it sounds like a 14 if you work on it with some sandpaper). I've tried a 10 and the gap is to small and didn't fill the slot well. Most of the time people muck up flatheads is because they are using the wrong size of wrench. Fill the gap and it won't slip. Photo evidence below ;-)

http://s206.photobucket.com/user/euthymic_one/media/12Spanner_zpstncm1kas.jpg.html
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Sorry about that. I didn't read the whole thread and I missed your recommendation regarding the need for a #12 spanner. Thanks for the info!
 
From Above "You can usually get it from most hardware stores. This set is from Harbor Freight, but it gets the job done."

Beware... All the cheap "security bit" sets that I've seen (including the HF model linked above) only come with a #10 spanner. It might work in a pinch but unless you don't care about your finish (and I don't think you would be asking here if you didn't), throw down the $3 and get a proper #12. Just search a parts supply house like grainger and you should be good to go. I've found the cheap "security" bits to be universally terrible in all aspects (fit, slop, quickly deforming). Just want to help prevent people from picking up the wrong tool or from having the wrong information continuing to be regurgitated.
 
euthymic said:
From Above "You can usually get it from most hardware stores. This set is from Harbor Freight, but it gets the job done."

Beware... All the cheap "security bit" sets that I've seen (including the HF model linked above) only come with a #10 spanner. It might work in a pinch but unless you don't care about your finish (and I don't think you would be asking here if you didn't), throw down the $3 and get a proper #12. Just search a parts supply house like grainger and you should be good to go. I've found the cheap "security" bits to be universally terrible in all aspects (fit, slop, quickly deforming). Just want to help prevent people from picking up the wrong tool or from having the wrong information continuing to be regurgitated.
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Regurgitated? How about "recycled" or possibly "inadvertently passed along"?
 
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