all that is Survive! knives, post here...

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chambelona59 said:
Agreed :thumbup:
I find it to be excellent, I particularly like that there are aspects of/in it's design that are purposely the way they are.

I'm puzzled though about a video I viewed on Y.T.
Of course everybody's experience differs with any particular knife, I never heard any neg's re:
the GSO 4.1, I wonder if he just had a dull knife?
http://youtu.be/YPSvhbtv10k
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The GSO-4.1 has a fairly robust edge, 0.030 - 0.040" at the shoulder back ~0.06" from the apex, 15-20 dps. Compared to an edge <0.020 thick (e.g. a lot of puukkos and carving knives), the knife doesn't carve very well, there is much more resistance to penetration. The user had a very particular angle that he wanted to hold the blade for carving, he needed to raise the spine a bit further from the wood to get a better bite. One could also grind the apex angle lower for this specific use. I can carve just fine for my purposes with my unmodified GSO-4.1, but will probably bring the angle down on the first sharpening (it isn't dull yet ;)).

The other comments in the video are subjective or surface.
The handle screws/pillars are all the same length because it's less expensive (cost not passed on to consumer) and they are thus interchangeable - if one is lost, another can take its place as needed.
The KiahDex sheath is superior to leather in many ways, though some may prefer leather anyway for a knife like this (it certainly would be classier :thumbup: but perhaps more expensive).
By the way, if anyone is interested in a drop-down extension for the sheath, I've made some up and will gladly ship them out on request (not free ;)):

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https://picasaweb.google.com/109675974399787025312/KydexExtension?authkey=Gv1sRgCJmZ1czFrrGjogE

This is NOT intended as a "for sale" post, just trying to make folks aware of the options that exist. Lots of kydex-benders who frequent this forum make similar accessories, so no one need suffer a knife that rides too high :)
 
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Bumping this thread while waiting for the belated GSO-5.1 and Necker.

For those wondering about stonewashed CPM-3V and corrosion, here is my GSO-10 after a hard day's use cutting a path through the woods for cattle-panel fencing. It wasn't raining. I'll post again after i clean her up:

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Wow! Were you stabbing car batteries or something? That's the pitting I've heard about with 3V. My Kosters never got that bad. I suppose the blade finish really has a lot to do with corrosion resistance. Thanks for sharing.

Still love how 3V performs though.
 
On another Survive! note, now that the neckers and "5" models are getting wrapped up, I can't wait to see what they have in store for the smaller knife I've heard a little about. Anyone seen any designs/sketches/specs?
 
I have "6" on pre order originally they were supposed to be done in mid July now it looks like it got pushed to mid August.
anyone has any update on these?
 
PB Wilson said:
Wow! Were you stabbing car batteries or something? That's the pitting I've heard about with 3V. My Kosters never got that bad. I suppose the blade finish really has a lot to do with corrosion resistance. Thanks for sharing.

Still love how 3V performs though.
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:cool: Nah, just cutting through thick foliage, roots & vines as I cleared a path. There was a lot of contact with dirt and sand, but no rain or battery acid ;). This isn't the first time my blade has ended up looking this way, winter snow and ice produced the same result, and it cleans off easily with fine steel-wool or a scour-pad. It's also easy to prevent with just a little oil, even body oil (if your diet permits)! But I've yet to see any sort of patina development (haven't tried to force one), just this sort of behavior, and I wanted folks to know what it looks like :thumbup:

I too am loving the performance, however. It can still slice receipt paper along most of the edge though the corrosion seen here at the apex will end that shortly (until I strop it back). Here is part of the edge that won't slice clean:

GSO-10+tree-spike+impact.JPG


Some of the path-clearing involved fallen trees which, it turns out, were spiked with 9 ga fence staples and barbed wire! I nearly cut the spike in half on impact, but here is the edge-compaction of the blade (sorry my camera sucks and I cannot afford a new one, need that money for fencing material).
 
My 4.1 S90v version has arrived. I have to decide on whether this will replace / complement / supplement a few others in my existing pile of steel.
 
It may look horrible but I am sure it will clean nicely. Please post a pic after you clean the blade. Curious to see if there are any rust pits.
 
ridnovir said:
It may look horrible but I am sure it will clean nicely. Please post a pic after you clean the blade. Curious to see if there are any rust pits.
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Working on uploading a video now, but here are some after-shots from cleaning with only dishsoap, water, sponge, and #0000 steel-wool:

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Note that the "freckles" are still present, i.e. the pitting is deeper than the #0000 steel wool could reach. To remove these i either need a chemical rust-remover or do dig deeper into the metal...

... or i could just keep using the blade and not worry about the appearance :cool:
 
Video up:

[video=youtube;IZe4T50nrog]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZe4T50nrog&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
chambelona59 said:
I wonder if that would happen with M-390?
Thanks for the video.
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At <2% Carbon by weight, with other carbide-formers of higher affinity present, most of the M390's 20% chromium should be free to contribute to corrosion resistance. I suspect it would take a LOT of effort to induce this behavior in M390... But I'm not a metallurgist.

Or did you mean the mushed-out edge where it struck the staple as mentioned? There was some slight tearing at the edges of the compaction, but no visible chip-out. I'm not sure how M390 would have fared...
 
chiral.grolim said:
At <2% Carbon by weight, with other carbide-formers of higher affinity present, most of the M390's 20% chromium should be free to contribute to corrosion resistance. I suspect it would take a LOT of effort to induce this behavior in M390... But I'm not a metallurgist.

Or did you mean the mushed-out edge where it struck the staple as mentioned? There was some slight tearing at the edges of the compaction, but no visible chip-out. I'm not sure how M390 would have fared...
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I meant the spotting/freckles etc.
I haven't had a chance to go through thick foliage, roots & vines with my 4.1 yet.
 
that cleaned up pretty nicely. although those micro pits or "freckles" as you call them would worry me. 3v tends to pit when it rusts.
 
ridnovir said:
that cleaned up pretty nicely. although those micro pits or "freckles" as you call them would worry me. 3v tends to pit when it rusts.
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The "freckles" are indeed micro-pits, but the depth isn't far. Keep in mind, I was using #0000 steel wool, common for polishing oiled furniture to a nice luster, i.e. minimal penetration, and it took off most of the visible marks of corrosion. These pits do not compromise the integrity of the steel in any meaningful way except along the edge-bevel where they intersect and weaken the apex. Corrosion at the apex will result in micro-chipping but that is all, and I'll polish out those marks on the next sharpening which is only necessary because I use this tool for cutting light vegetation as well as wood. Were it simply a chopping tool, the amount of dulling caused by these pits would not be noticeable. They will certainly NOT result in catastrophic failure. What they do indicate to me is that I am unlikely to achieve a nice patina without deliberate action (e.g. mustard bath :)) so I will take care to wipe AND oil the blade at the end of a good day's use.

the5farrs said:
I wonder if their cpm-20cv would do the same thing?
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CPM-20CV equates to Bohler's M390 - same exact composition:

chiral.grolim said:
At <2% Carbon by weight, with other carbide-formers of higher affinity present, most of the M390's 20% chromium should be free to contribute to corrosion resistance. I suspect it would take a LOT of effort to induce this behavior in M390...
Click to expand...

With only 7.5% chromium (by weight) CPM-3V is NOT "stainless" steel. It resists corrosion better than traditionally forged tool steels because of the small particle size and homogeneity during production, but there is insufficient chromium (or other elements) to protect the iron matrix from oxidation. But look how sparsely distributed the freckles are. Each freckle represents a a salt deposit that provided a point of water condensation (nucleation) for oxidation to occur. It is common in tool steels for the oxidation to effect the entire surface, but not so here. Frankly, for stonewashed tool steel, I am impressed by the level of resistance. However, if I experience the same result with M390 or CPM-20CV I will be very surprised and disappointed. But I am not worried.
 
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