Arthur the aardsnark!

[daizee]

I saw your post earlier about being in Florida during the Blade show. where abouts? Im heading there right after, of coarse Im sure you will be working, I will be fishing and drinking. Don't be surprised if you pull a drunken knifemaker aboard for rescue

Haha!
Prolly be in St. Petersburg and/or Ft. Lauderdale. Where will you be?

 

[worldwood]

I have been playing around etching and trying to make some type of permanent stencils. The problem is the stencil will not stay in place. I can cut a stencil out of a DVD case but it slides over while etching. I can tape it down but some of the etch still seems to get under the stencil because its not stuck down....

So i had the idea... Maybe i can use a magnet, like the thin fridge magnets, and cut a simple design out of that so it will stick to the blade while i etch. Not sure if the electricity or liquid will effect the magnet though. But its worth a shot. I just need to find a thin magnet thats about the size of a business card so i have room around the design to help hold it down.

What do you guys think? Think it will work, or will the electricity or liquid still ruin the stencil?

 

[Guyon]

I think I need to dump my cookies. I'm getting a "Date Asia Soulmates" ad here.
Be glad when Spark eliminates the ads for paying members.

 

[GSO1962]

I think I need to dump my cookies. I'm getting a "Date Asia Soulmates" ad here.
Be glad when Spark eliminates the ads for paying members.

Somehow I thought that was a euphemism for a bodily function.... I think I'm getting tired and need some sleep. My mind is playing tricks on me.

 

[granitestateofmind]

I have been playing around etching and trying to make some type of permanent stencils. The problem is the stencil will not stay in place. I can cut a stencil out of a DVD case but it slides over while etching. I can tape it down but some of the etch still seems to get under the stencil because its not stuck down....

So i had the idea... Maybe i can use a magnet, like the thin fridge magnets, and cut a simple design out of that so it will stick to the blade while i etch. Not sure if the electricity or liquid will effect the magnet though. But its worth a shot. I just need to find a thin magnet thats about the size of a business card so i have room around the design to help hold it down.

What do you guys think? Think it will work, or will the electricity or liquid still ruin the stencil?

I'd try some thin plastic sheet (thinner than a DVD case) and some 3M 77 spray adhesive. That stuff is the bomb.

 

[worldwood]

Oh and James, not sure if i told you this already or not but since im looking at it right now...

A few days ago i got a rough edge on the piece of 1095. It was still harder than i thought it would be even though its not hardened yet. I used a file to get the rough edge shaped on 1 side but that was taking a while so i cheated and used the worksharp with the course belt to finish it off. I will prolly continue with it and try and get a scary sharp edge on, right now the edge is still pretty dull but will cut into wood. I filed into the elmax as well, its not quite big enough for me to get an edge on it by hand but i did do a little filing in it to see how hard it was too.

Thanks again James, its a great learning experience and makes me appreciate the work you guys do even more now that i have a little better idea of what you guys go through.

Now once im finished i just throw it in the oven for 4 hours on 350 degrees and then drop it in a pot of crisco and that should put it at about 58hrc correct? LMAO

 

[granitestateofmind]

I think I need to dump my cookies. I'm getting a "Date Asia Soulmates" ad here.
Be glad when Spark eliminates the ads for paying members.

Now, I'm asking myself....why is the biscuit getting that particular ad? Dumping your cookies won't change a thing....there's already too much info on somebody's servers somewhere.

Somehow I thought that was a euphemism for a bodily function.... I think I'm getting tired and need some sleep. My mind is playing tricks on me.

I did, too...then I read the rest.

 

[worldwood]

I think I need to dump my cookies. I'm getting a "Date Asia Soulmates" ad here.
Be glad when Spark eliminates the ads for paying members.

I'd try some thin plastic sheet (thinner than a DVD case) and some 3M 77 spray adhesive. That stuff is the bomb.

Great idea with the spray adhesive!!

What type of thin plastic? like the grafix craft sheets that are .020" ?

Thanks Mike!

 

[worldwood]

I think I need to dump my cookies. I'm getting a "Date Asia Soulmates" ad here.
Be glad when Spark eliminates the ads for paying members.

Why not use adblock plus? Its free and made all the ads disappear for me. Even made viewing shows and movies online better too.

 

[CamH_16]

Oh and James, not sure if i told you this already or not but since im looking at it right now...

A few days ago i got a rough edge on the piece of 1095. It was still harder than i thought it would be even though its not hardened yet. I used a file to get the rough edge shaped on 1 side but that was taking a while so i cheated and used the worksharp with the course belt to finish it off. I will prolly continue with it and try and get a scary sharp edge on, right now the edge is still pretty dull but will cut into wood. I filed into the elmax as well, its not quite big enough for me to get an edge on it by hand but i did do a little filing in it to see how hard it was too.

Thanks again James, its a great learning experience and makes me appreciate the work you guys do even more now that i have a little better idea of what you guys go through.

Now once im finished i just throw it in the oven for 4 hours on 350 degrees and then drop it in a pot of crisco and that should put it at about 58hrc correct? LMAO

Not sure if you're being serious but are you making a knife? What you just described would be the tempering process...You first have to heat it up to non-mag and leave it to "soak" a little then quickly quench it. After that you chuck it in the oven which should relieve any stress, remembering that when quenched, the blade would be at its full hardness and any pressure or stress applied to it could cause it to snap.

 

[Jonny1280]

Caught a stomach cramp while running. Just can't figure it out.

Maybe you need to dump your cookies...

 

[daizee]

I will prolly continue with it and try and get a scary sharp edge on, right now the edge is still pretty dull but will cut into wood.

this won't work. It won't hold an edge when it's soft. it WILL be instructive, tho.
Besides, the edge is the VERY LAST thing you do to a knife. You want to leave the thing dull, and by dull I mean a nice bright, flat 0.005-0.015" thick 'edge' at the bottom of the primary bevel with NO secondary, until EVERYTHING is done. shaping, heat-treating, polishing, handling, sheathing, etc. Unless, of course, you like cutting yourself. Pointy blades are dangerous enough to work on without a damn scalpel hanging out in the middle of your work while your hands swing around it.

 

[iwouldhurtafly]

I have been playing around etching and trying to make some type of permanent stencils. The problem is the stencil will not stay in place. I can cut a stencil out of a DVD case but it slides over while etching. I can tape it down but some of the etch still seems to get under the stencil because its not stuck down....

So i had the idea... Maybe i can use a magnet, like the thin fridge magnets, and cut a simple design out of that so it will stick to the blade while i etch. Not sure if the electricity or liquid will effect the magnet though. But its worth a shot. I just need to find a thin magnet thats about the size of a business card so i have room around the design to help hold it down.

What do you guys think? Think it will work, or will the electricity or liquid still ruin the stencil?

Why not make a reverse stencil. IE make a stencil the portion you want to etch... This way you could stick that on a blade using contact adhesive or tape of some sort, shoot the blade with some sort of paint with the reverse stencil on, remove the stencil, etch the blade, then remove the paint? I made myself an "etcher" last night out of a power cord but its just AC so it doesnt cut very deep, but it does darken the you know what out of the blade. Used nail polish as a resist then just scratched in some junk and it worked pretty well. Not pretty but the pieces are all there.

 

[iwouldhurtafly]

I will have to post up pictures later, but I have been playing around with a product called "plasti-dip." Its basically a rubber in a can used for adding grip to tools or in automotive applications. I bought it to see what kind of grip it could give to my stippled BK15 scales. After a little playing around man this stuff is kind of neat. I know there have been other people who have used this stuff to add grip to Becker handles, but this stuff is cool because it was not hard, was not expensive, is pretty forgiving, is reversible, and it works really well. I had "softened" up the scales after stippling to make them less aggressive, but they still were not quite what I was looking for. Basically was looking for a fair medium between grip and comfort, and this stuff really fit the bill. I am going to have to see how durable it is in the long run but I have been playing with it for a while now cutting stuff and it is still all there. I would recommend this to whoever wants a cheap and easy way to add grip to Becker scales.

Also used it on a paracord wrapped handle on a knife I made. First off for a saw blade knife this thing has surpassed expectations. I have not sharpened it since the day I finished it and it still will pop hairs. Not as readily mind you but I wouldnt think a simple knife like this would be doing this well. I have cut a lot of cardboard, and its been living in my garage as my work bench knife cutting everything. Its doing fantastically. Anyways, applied some of the plasti-dip to the para cord. It soaked a lot of it up, but after a few light coats it still looks like paracord, but feels like rubber. For 5 bucks I think it is definitely worth anyone trying. It might even be good to rubberize and water proof nylon and things of that nature. I dont see why not.

 

[bigghoss]

"team savage" shoots with off the shelf rifles in various calibers - now, mind, they do get to choose "best of 10 or 20", but still, off the shelf, against rifles costing 10-20x more?

and they win...

the "old guys" at my club shoot 200 yds, without optics, with .22LR, and are stupid good.

the ones that use optics are even stupider good.

something to aspire too

and what they can do at 50 yds with a pistol. sick.

Yeah I love my MK II, that thing is stupid easy to hit with. The area I used to shoot I only had about 80 yards but the hillside was littered with shards of clays and a bunch of trash. Once you got the scope adjusted it was too easy to hit with that thing. I wan't to get a better scope and base and get the thicker bottom plates and really push it out there.

I also want to get another Savage 110 long action and swap the barrel for a heavy '06 barrel and then get a something like mcmillian stock for it.



Did some cleaning up on the NEF single 12ga's today. Came out alright, got most of the surface rust off. The synthetic stock I ordered isn't going to work, it's a youth stock and I can't get a good cheek weld in a hurry. Tried it out on my .45/70 handi and with the higher rifle sights the youth stock works fine. I'm going to order a standard LOP synthetic stock for the shotty and hang on to the youth stock in the hopes I come across another rifle to put it on. I'll be making the round of all the gun stores in town again tomorrow including one that was closed last week so lets hope someone got rid of a .357 or .44 handi. I also need a 20ga and a couple of .410's, maybe one of them .410/.45lc survivors.

 

[worldwood]

Not sure if you're being serious but are you making a knife? What you just described would be the tempering process...You first have to heat it up to non-mag and leave it to "soak" a little then quickly quench it. After that you chuck it in the oven which should relieve any stress, remembering that when quenched, the blade would be at its full hardness and any pressure or stress applied to it could cause it to snap.

LMAO, i was just kidding about the oven and the crisco I wouldnt try and heat treat anything in my home for real.

this won't work. It won't hold an edge when it's soft. it WILL be instructive, tho.
Besides, the edge is the VERY LAST thing you do to a knife. You want to leave the thing dull, and by dull I mean a nice bright, flat 0.005-0.015" thick 'edge' at the bottom of the primary bevel with NO secondary, until EVERYTHING is done. shaping, heat-treating, polishing, handling, sheathing, etc. Unless, of course, you like cutting yourself. Pointy blades are dangerous enough to work on without a damn scalpel hanging out in the middle of your work while your hands swing around it.

Its just a small piece of steel, James sent it so i could get an idea of how hard it was before heat treat, but since i got it i figured id try and get an edge on it. I wont be getting it heat treated or anything for real just playing around for the learning experience. The very edge shows on my caliper at about .023 and right behind the edge is at .115" right now and the steel is .125" stock

 

[Jonny1280]

There's a good deal on a 24 with TKC G-10 up on the exchange right now.
My knife fund is currently depleted....

 

[worldwood]

There's a good deal on a 24 with TKC G-10 up on the exchange right now.
My knife fund is currently depleted....

Yea i seen that a few minutes ago. If i didnt just get a 24 id jump on that. 50 with the scales is a great deal.

 

[worldwood]

Why not make a reverse stencil. IE make a stencil the portion you want to etch... This way you could stick that on a blade using contact adhesive or tape of some sort, shoot the blade with some sort of paint with the reverse stencil on, remove the stencil, etch the blade, then remove the paint? I made myself an "etcher" last night out of a power cord but its just AC so it doesnt cut very deep, but it does darken the you know what out of the blade. Used nail polish as a resist then just scratched in some junk and it worked pretty well. Not pretty but the pieces are all there.

That would work, and if i was only doing 1 etch i would do that!! But stenciling, painting, etching, stripping would become labor intensive on a bunch of knives. im wanting to make a permanent stencil, or at least something i can use several times before its messed up. SO that i can get close to identical results.

 

[Jonny1280]

That would work, and if i was only doing 1 etch i would do that!! But stenciling, painting, etching, stripping would become labor intensive on a bunch of knives. im wanting to make a permanent stencil, or at least something i can use several times before its messed up. SO that i can get close to identical results.

Wasn't MRN8 making those with vinyl?
Give him a holla...