Arthur the aardsnark!

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worldwood said:
That would work, and if i was only doing 1 etch i would do that!! But stenciling, painting, etching, stripping would become labor intensive on a bunch of knives. im wanting to make a permanent stencil, or at least something i can use several times before its messed up. SO that i can get close to identical results.
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You might talk to a local sign maker, or someone who does screen printing, makes t-shirts etc etc. Or look to some of the online business printing places and see if they make masks, stencils or something. Might be able to make a custom vinyl stencil. Something that is essentially a sticker with the part you want to etch missing. That way you could just have a sheet or so of them made, clean the knife, slap it on, etch, pull it off, and then go about your day. I would assume that there are some custom knife makers that have had this sort of thing done so you might just drop a thread in the tinkering and embellishing subforum, or just the custom maker forum and see who bites.
 
You can order probably directly from Amazon as a cheap alternative a roll of 3M vinyl, then cut out your own stencils. They come in various widths, lengths, and colors. I'd recommend getting a darker color cause it's harder to see your lines with a lighter color. That is the stuff car people use for graphics on their cars, and sign makers use for their banners. Although I'd bet money you could just use some painters tape or masking tape.
 
Thanks for the help guys!

I have found places online that make stencils for etching. But it would cost me around 60 bucks to get it made, and the stencil is reusable up to about 50 times depending on how you etch. But im trying to avoid spending 60 bucks on a little piece of plastic if i can. But for 60 they would make a logo similar to my avatar thats around .5" x 1" and that would be easy to fit on knives.... but again for now id like to see if i can make something that works first to avoid that price. But if i cant figure it out i might have to go that route.

Ill look into 3M vinyl, that sounds like it might work with spray adhesive. I wouldnt be able to make anything like the 60 dollar place or like 710 had made for me if im just cutting it out myself. it would be something plain like WW or something. But for now im just playing with the possibilities.

Thanks again fellas
 
worldwood said:
Thanks for the help guys!

I have found places online that make stencils for etching. But it would cost me around 60 bucks to get it made, and the stencil is reusable up to about 50 times depending on how you etch. But im trying to avoid spending 60 bucks on a little piece of plastic if i can. But for 60 they would make a logo similar to my avatar thats around .5" x 1" and that would be easy to fit on knives.... but again for now id like to see if i can make something that works first to avoid that price. But if i cant figure it out i might have to go that route.

Ill look into 3M vinyl, that sounds like it might work with spray adhesive. I wouldnt be able to make anything like the 60 dollar place or like 710 had made for me if im just cutting it out myself. it would be something plain like WW or something. But for now im just playing with the possibilities.

Thanks again fellas
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What about a stamp? Like what all the scrapbookers and crafty ladies use?
 
Guyon said:
Caught a stomach cramp while running. Just can't figure it out.
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See? Running is bad for you :thumbdn:

worldwood said:
I will prolly continue with it and try and get a scary sharp edge on, right now the edge is still pretty dull but will cut into wood.
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You will discover something very interesting... HT has relatively little to do with sharpness. You will be able to get a keen crisp edge on that, it just won't stay that way. Geometry cuts, alloy selection and HT determine how long it keeps cutting.

worldwood said:
Thanks again James, its a great learning experience and makes me appreciate the work you guys do even more now that i have a little better idea of what you guys go through.
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Now think about doing that on a chunk 1/4" thick, 10" long and 2" wide. If it was easy, everyone would do it. :D

worldwood said:
Now once im finished i just throw it in the oven for 4 hours on 350 degrees and then drop it in a pot of crisco and that should put it at about 58hrc correct? :D LMAO
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Yup! The secret is out... ;)

As for making stencils, do a search in ShopTalk. There are quite a few threads on that topic. I have a pro make mine, so I won't be much help...
 
worldwood said:
LMAO, i was just kidding about the oven and the crisco :D I wouldnt try and heat treat anything in my home for real.
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Well this is proof that I can't take a joke :rolleyes:...

Strangely though, my plan for HTing at the moment is to heat it up and dunk it in an ammo can full of veg oil.

daizee said:
this won't work. It won't hold an edge when it's soft. it WILL be instructive, tho. :D
Besides, the edge is the VERY LAST thing you do to a knife. You want to leave the thing dull, and by dull I mean a nice bright, flat 0.005-0.015" thick 'edge' at the bottom of the primary bevel with NO secondary, until EVERYTHING is done. shaping, heat-treating, polishing, handling, sheathing, etc. Unless, of course, you like cutting yourself. Pointy blades are dangerous enough to work on without a damn scalpel hanging out in the middle of your work while your hands swing around it.
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Apart from sharpness I thought the main reason for keeping a thick edge was to prevent warping when HTing.
 
CamH_16 said:
Well this is proof that I can't take a joke :rolleyes:...

Strangely though, my plan for HTing at the moment is to heat it up and dunk it in an ammo can full of veg oil.



Apart from sharpness I thought the main reason for keeping a thick edge was to prevent warping when HTing.
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Thats correct too CamH. there needs to be some thickness to the edge to prevent warpage during heat treat.
 
Guyon street burritos gave me the sh!ts and I didnt even eat them............Gotta go find stinkhouse........be back shortly! :o
 
CamH_16 said:
Strangely though, my plan for HTing at the moment is to heat it up and dunk it in an ammo can full of veg oil.
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don't forget to pre-heat your veg oil.

Apart from sharpness I thought the main reason for keeping a thick edge was to prevent warping when HTing.
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Yes, but depending on the steel you can actually go VERY thin without issues. The air-cooled steels are quite stable, and plate-quenching them can keep things nice and straight (not 100%, I've seen a couple oddities). Also, I bet if you heat-treat a hair-popping edge it doesn't come back sharp anyway. Just a guess tho.
 
daizee said:
don't forget to pre-heat your veg oil.

Yes, but depending on the steel you can actually go VERY thin without issues. The air-cooled steels are quite stable, and plate-quenching them can keep things nice and straight (not 100%, I've seen a couple oddities). Also, I bet if you heat-treat a hair-popping edge it doesn't come back sharp anyway. Just a guess tho.
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Would it be better to warm it up in a pot beforehand or will throwing in some hot scrap steel work?
 
my neighbor came home with some new rims and tires for his f150, joking with him I yelled out "I wish i had some new rims" he walks over and says I'm about to put these on craigslist for 500.00 bucks you want them? 6 month old tires 2013 upgrades factory rims... I said "hellya I do"... I needed two front tires and it was gonna run me about that anyways. This type of stuff never happens to me...


 
Jonny1280 said:
I hopped on it...
That was just too hard too pass up! :D
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Thank you, Jonny. That thing was bugging me, so I X'd out of the page....it was a very good deal, but I'm going to try and find some time for the knives I have, and trust that when I'm ready (and flush with cash) to buy another, the Exchange will provide. There are LOTS of good deals on there. I really need to stop looking at them for a while.

worldwood said:
Thanks for the help guys!

I have found places online that make stencils for etching. But it would cost me around 60 bucks to get it made, and the stencil is reusable up to about 50 times depending on how you etch. But im trying to avoid spending 60 bucks on a little piece of plastic if i can. But for 60 they would make a logo similar to my avatar thats around .5" x 1" and that would be easy to fit on knives.... but again for now id like to see if i can make something that works first to avoid that price. But if i cant figure it out i might have to go that route.

Ill look into 3M vinyl, that sounds like it might work with spray adhesive. I wouldnt be able to make anything like the 60 dollar place or like 710 had made for me if im just cutting it out myself. it would be something plain like WW or something. But for now im just playing with the possibilities.

Thanks again fellas
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Acetate from the craft/art store, 3M adhesive and an X-acto....less than $15, and the acetate comes in a pad so you can make a few stencils if you stack a couple of sheets together when you cut them. I'm going to try a little more expensive route for some one-offs: Cricut vinyl and transfer paper. Gotta make some space on my workbench first, tho. Boy, do I have a LOT OF $l+¡┼ in my (life) basement.
 
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