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It's Spanish.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
Bargain $10 26.5cm Australian Folder?
- Thread starter huj900
- Start date
I'm only messin' with you, huj. Look, we all made mistakes.
When I got into collecting customs, everyone here at Bladeforums' Custom Forum kept bragging to me about this one "very popular" maker's knives. So, I ordered a set of hunters from him, sight unseen, and here's what $2,000 got me.......
is that for real?? you really didnt know you were getting those fossilized tools? they look like they could be put on display in a museum, but i could imagine the disappointment you must have felt thinking you were going to receive a set of nice hunting knives and got those instead....
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That knife in the original post looks like it isn't worth what you paid for it. Exceptionally poor quality look to the blade steel, and the finish is awful.
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2000
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- 45,835
Chinese knock-offs have their place. I used to carry a big old honkin' Chinese bowie in a tackle box. It wasn't the greatest knife in the world, but it cut the head off many a bass, bream, and catfish. Just the right size for putting some leverage on the spine. Heck, I probably still have that knife around here somewhere.
They're also good for practicing sharpening. Notice I said practicing, because you'll likely get a lot of it. Heat treatments and steel quality can vary pretty wildly, and your knives may or may not hold much of an edge. My bet would be toward the latter, but you never know. That big old Bowie held a halfway decent edge.
In the best bang for the buck category, I want to second the Mora. Our very own Ken C. was nice enough to send me one to test a while back (thanks, Ken). One of these days, I'll get around to posting a review in Wilderness and thanking him there. ragweedforge has a great line-up of these knives, but I don't know if they ship overseas.
Other decent knives in the sub-$20 range might be: the Spyderco Byrd line of knives and any of the Kabar Dozier line of folders. Though I've read good reviews of the Byrds, I only own one of the Kabars. One rides in my truck toolbox all the time. These used to be 440C, but I see that they've switched to AUS-8. Still, if the heat treat is good, that's not a bad steel.
However, I still maintain that the absolute best value in knives is the venerable Buck 110. Here in the U.S., you can still pick one up for $30--usually even cheaper around Christmas time. Decent 420HC steel, great heat treat, solid workmanship, made in the U.S., and every one I've owned locked up like a tank.
They're also good for practicing sharpening. Notice I said practicing, because you'll likely get a lot of it. Heat treatments and steel quality can vary pretty wildly, and your knives may or may not hold much of an edge. My bet would be toward the latter, but you never know. That big old Bowie held a halfway decent edge.
In the best bang for the buck category, I want to second the Mora. Our very own Ken C. was nice enough to send me one to test a while back (thanks, Ken). One of these days, I'll get around to posting a review in Wilderness and thanking him there. ragweedforge has a great line-up of these knives, but I don't know if they ship overseas.
Other decent knives in the sub-$20 range might be: the Spyderco Byrd line of knives and any of the Kabar Dozier line of folders. Though I've read good reviews of the Byrds, I only own one of the Kabars. One rides in my truck toolbox all the time. These used to be 440C, but I see that they've switched to AUS-8. Still, if the heat treat is good, that's not a bad steel.
However, I still maintain that the absolute best value in knives is the venerable Buck 110. Here in the U.S., you can still pick one up for $30--usually even cheaper around Christmas time. Decent 420HC steel, great heat treat, solid workmanship, made in the U.S., and every one I've owned locked up like a tank.
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so.. mate.. if l send you $30 oz can you sell me the 4th knife in the 2nd column?
PLEEEZE
P.S, you know you want to..
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- Mar 15, 2000
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- 45,835
so.. mate.. if l send you $30 oz can you sell me the 4th knife in the 2nd column?
PLEEEZE
P.S, you know you want to..
Uhmm... no I don't.
However, knives 4 and 5 in the first column are both current-production 420HC versions. One of them cost me less than $20 retail during a past Christmas. I bought five or six for something like $17 each. Some were gifts. A couple were sent in for blade replacements back when the Buck Custom Shop would do it. I think I read that Buck discontinued that service, however.
batosai117
Gold Member
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- Jun 5, 2007
- Messages
- 5,463
The answer to everything: Get a Sebenza!!!
On a serious note, I started off with a couple of gas station cheapies which became my practice pieces for sharpening once I started getting into more expensive knives.
You get what you pay for, and depending on the company, that usually holds true. For Buck, you get some great knives for hardly any money and they last a lifetime. I had a Buck Bantam 286, the large version, and it was a chinese buck that was one hell of a knife. I bought it for under $20.00 at a local shop about two years ago and it made me second guess my feelings towards chinese knives (from buck of course).
There are good inexpensive knives out there, you just have to do a little bit of looking around. I wouldn't recommend SOG to you simply because for the money there are knives out there with better materials and workmanship put into them. If you have about $60.00 to spare, try a benchmade griptilian, excellent knife and one of my favorite buys for the money.
Since you are new to knives you probably don't know about all of the wonderful "super steels" out there. Generally if it says "surgical stainless" it translates to "crap steel." You will notice with good makers that the steel type is stamped onto the blade, this shows they have pride in their materials and want you to know it. Kershaw has some good knives for the money, and you'll notice the blade material is either stamped or pressed into the blade.
Read up on the steel charts and handle materials and you'll understand why "Good" knives cost more money (with the buck 110 as the exception). Here is a brief summary in a list of bad to good stainless steels:
surgical stainless = crap
420
420 J2
420HC - from any old maker
440A, AUS 6
440B, AUS 8, 420HC from buck
440C, AUS 10
154CM, ATS 34 (one is american and one is japanese)
S30V
For your price range, these are the steels that you have to choose from (for the most part). Now you have to learn who, what, where, when, and why about these to know a half descent knife when you see one. Now the steels I put up are just a general chart from the lower end to the higher end stuff. Each company makes their steels differently, thus this chart isn't very accurate, but element wise, it holds pretty much true. For example, 440A from kershaw performs excellent, but if I had read about it before using it I would have never bought a 440A blade knife.
Okay, that's all I can type for now, I think I took up the whole page
.
ps. Get a Sebenza!
On a serious note, I started off with a couple of gas station cheapies which became my practice pieces for sharpening once I started getting into more expensive knives.
You get what you pay for, and depending on the company, that usually holds true. For Buck, you get some great knives for hardly any money and they last a lifetime. I had a Buck Bantam 286, the large version, and it was a chinese buck that was one hell of a knife. I bought it for under $20.00 at a local shop about two years ago and it made me second guess my feelings towards chinese knives (from buck of course).
There are good inexpensive knives out there, you just have to do a little bit of looking around. I wouldn't recommend SOG to you simply because for the money there are knives out there with better materials and workmanship put into them. If you have about $60.00 to spare, try a benchmade griptilian, excellent knife and one of my favorite buys for the money.
Since you are new to knives you probably don't know about all of the wonderful "super steels" out there. Generally if it says "surgical stainless" it translates to "crap steel." You will notice with good makers that the steel type is stamped onto the blade, this shows they have pride in their materials and want you to know it. Kershaw has some good knives for the money, and you'll notice the blade material is either stamped or pressed into the blade.
Read up on the steel charts and handle materials and you'll understand why "Good" knives cost more money (with the buck 110 as the exception). Here is a brief summary in a list of bad to good stainless steels:
surgical stainless = crap
420
420 J2
420HC - from any old maker
440A, AUS 6
440B, AUS 8, 420HC from buck
440C, AUS 10
154CM, ATS 34 (one is american and one is japanese)
S30V
For your price range, these are the steels that you have to choose from (for the most part). Now you have to learn who, what, where, when, and why about these to know a half descent knife when you see one. Now the steels I put up are just a general chart from the lower end to the higher end stuff. Each company makes their steels differently, thus this chart isn't very accurate, but element wise, it holds pretty much true. For example, 440A from kershaw performs excellent, but if I had read about it before using it I would have never bought a 440A blade knife.
Okay, that's all I can type for now, I think I took up the whole page
. ps. Get a Sebenza!
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- May 23, 2004
- Messages
- 1,175
A cheap knife can become a very expensive knife if the lock fails and causes an injury.
Before you put them to use, give them the spine whack test, or any other test you can think of that will apply pressure to the locking mechanism. If it fails, think seriously about how you use them.
If the locking mechanism holds up and you get good service from them, the only persons opinion that matters is your own.
Personally, I would save up a few more dollars and buy just 1 quality knife that you can enjoy using with full confidence, that it will do the job, without causing an injury.
Before you put them to use, give them the spine whack test, or any other test you can think of that will apply pressure to the locking mechanism. If it fails, think seriously about how you use them.
If the locking mechanism holds up and you get good service from them, the only persons opinion that matters is your own.
Personally, I would save up a few more dollars and buy just 1 quality knife that you can enjoy using with full confidence, that it will do the job, without causing an injury.
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Kaizen1
Gold Member
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- Jan 4, 2006
- Messages
- 6,298
Glad you like 'em. Care to make an offer?
Hey, if they appreciate and there's a willing buyer somewhere, it can look like vomit for I care.
I personally can take them off of your hands and do some kind of Cliff Stamp/Noss4 hybrid knife test on them if you like. I promise, my fee to do that would be nominal.:thumbup:
Kaizen1
Gold Member
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- Jan 4, 2006
- Messages
- 6,298
By "priceless", you must mean "having no value". They actually look like awesome tactical knives, but can you baton with them?
batosai117
Gold Member
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- Jun 5, 2007
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- May 18, 2005
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Are you saying you stabbed Al? Who is Al?
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- Mar 7, 2001
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- 4,608
srmknives are ok for USAGE. Their design is simple and most will find it copied from major brands. However, the copy is not exact, it's of different size or some changes of shapes here and there.
As has been discussed along on other thread, 8Cr13MoV is a good user steel. It'll hold edge, easy to maintain and can get sharp enough. Following the Kung Fu Master Sharpening thread, using various unusual strop material (glossy ad paper, plain old leather belt, jeans, cardboard, etc.), I managed to make it cutting hanging hair. Thin the edge too.
Most of your chinese knife photo are made by unknown factory. The quality varies, some are junk, but some are ok (comparable to srm). I personally carry srm and Victorinox Spartan lite (for the additional tool plus better blade, it's thinner, better slicer)
@Phil,
Nice to see the gentlemen now come to term. I'd say you'd a bit harsh initially, but that's still within the 'limit' here
As has been discussed along on other thread, 8Cr13MoV is a good user steel. It'll hold edge, easy to maintain and can get sharp enough. Following the Kung Fu Master Sharpening thread, using various unusual strop material (glossy ad paper, plain old leather belt, jeans, cardboard, etc.), I managed to make it cutting hanging hair. Thin the edge too.
Most of your chinese knife photo are made by unknown factory. The quality varies, some are junk, but some are ok (comparable to srm). I personally carry srm and Victorinox Spartan lite (for the additional tool plus better blade, it's thinner, better slicer)
@Phil,
Nice to see the gentlemen now come to term. I'd say you'd a bit harsh initially, but that's still within the 'limit' here
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- Mar 7, 2001
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Deleted due to double post. My browser slow response problem.
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He stabbed al? lets get him!