BF survival forum knife.

Allan Molstad said:
Survival Sheath question.

I dont know much about the plastics,, but would Kydex bend or fold around a knife so you only have rivets on one side?
Click to expand...

What do you mean by this? That instead of a rivet going straight through the sheath it is only visible on a single side? What would the benefit be? It could be accomplished with some trouble and the use of a chicago screw or blind rivet.

Like this?
rolloverqh9.jpg


or do you just mean a one piece like this:
onepiecesheathfx8.jpg
 
sputnick said:
or do you just mean a one piece like this:
onepiecesheathfx8.jpg
Click to expand...
Thats the one...
I like this design more than other Kydex sheaths because it seems to take up a lot less room.
There is different way to hang the knife off the belt that I would like your views about,,I will search for a link
 
Ok,,,not a great photo, but you can get the idea of the type of sheath that I think is interesting for a Survival knife.
The sheath design allows the knife to fit snuggly deep inside, yet also allows one-hand draw and put-back. (Something that all snap sheaths struggle to do)
I also like the way this design will have the sheath swing free of the belt and not be rubbing against the leg , even when sitting in a car.
http://ragweedforge.com/harding.jpg
 
sherlockbonez said:
Maybe have a full flat grind right to the spine.
Click to expand...
tarmix101 said:
Full flat right to the spine would be my ideal grind. IMO of course;)
Click to expand...

Yeah, same here; on thick stock (1/8"+) I feel you have to grind it high so it won't drag/bind up in the work. With decent steel/HT I don't think you lose any appreciable amount of toughness by doing that.

One of these days I want to make a set of identical blades and grind the bevels differently... full flat, sabre, convex, hollow sabre... and compare them... but that's a project for later on...
 
[
ishiyumisan said:
knife57.jpg




To me this knife with 1/8" full flat ground stock with a distal taper to the tip, out or 1095, or O1 and loveless pins would be the perfect blade. Add some good wood scales (curly birch, dessert iron wood ect...) and a good leather pouch sheath. Blade length about 4" to 4-1/2" would be perfect. But if the majority wanted a 5" blade, I would still buy it in a heart beat.

NWA..... what do you think?????

Thoughts everyone else :)
Click to expand...
 
NWA said:
Thanks for looking at my work guys. I like to hear peoples opinions of my work. I do offer a bit different knife for $100.00, I have thinking of raising the price though to $125.00.
NA05.jpg



It is the top knife. This is a set I sold to a fellow BF member out in Oregon.


PIMG0010.jpg



Nick
Click to expand...

I LOVE THIS IDEA!!
Either one of these would be my vote. I like the flat grind, temper line, solid handle, the idea for the firesteel (could we not do a purchase of one type of steel especially for this project?) and sharpener on the sheath! Actually the only thing that I would change (other than the exchange rate to get it here) is that I do not like the very small choil at the base of the blade- but I put up with it in almost all non puukko knives so no big deal!! For some reason I am not a fan of the scandi grind Linger knife above- don't know why but it just does not do it for me (just my 2 cents- not an attack on the knife at all)

P.S. man you miss a lot in a couple of days away from this site!
 
NWA, I really like this blade I saw in the custom for sale area.

PIMG0002.jpg


thats my idea of the ideal survival knife.
 
I want a 4" blade, carbon Steel, and green micarta handle, a leath neck sheath with FireSteel loop. Scandi grind is a must for woodcraft.:thumbup: ;) :D

Perfect outdoor blade:D
 
Jason Breeden sent me a drawing of an interesting knife that may be a great compromise. It takes the Scandi flavor and blends it with a more American style. I think it would make a great woods knife. I need to tinker with the file a bit and I'll try and post it.
 
Not challenging anyones posts, I like the fixed, flat or slightly convexed 4-5" blade with wood or mycarta. I like 1/4" spine or maybe 3/16" and a pouch sheath with fire steel loop. Here's my own woodcraft knife I just finished yesterday, The sheath is 9 oz leather, the pouch in the front is holding a small compass. Overall, I think its ugly as sin and I love it. blades 4 3/4" with ironwood handles. I tried some file work on the spine. Gene


 
Gunknifenut, that's a cool knife. I really need to get some supplies and try my hand at making a knife.

Myakka, I have the darn drawings as a .pdf file, and can't figure out how to upload them. My thought was to print it out, take a pic, then I can upload it. I'll figure something out.
 
I second Myakka specs,but remember this is a fourum knife we dont need to end up with a $500.00 knife. has anyone decided on blade steel and thickness.
 
I love the Idea of this knife. Count me in for one. I would also like to say to NWA, Great Design really fits the bill in my opinion.

A couple of thoughts.

First I have lately become a fan of blaze orange G10 handles. As this is a survival knife we might want to give that option some thought. (We don't want to lose it first trip out)

Second, I think this project offers an opportunity not only to create a stronger sense of community through this knife but be a good idea to also build a charity effort into this project. Perhaps some portion to go to the boy scouts for survival education or maybe an ongoing fund be created to help forum members in need.

In any event I would like us to keep the less fortunate in mind as we embark on this great project.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top