BF survival forum knife.

mtnfolk mike said:
i'm liking the sounds of this knife so far.....:thumbup: and if NWA makes it that's even better.... his work is awesome..... i'm in....:thumbup:

myakka- that is a great drawing.... looks like a good all around user.....:thumbup:

mike
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That would be a great idea. I would rather have a thin, flat ground blade, but leave it up to the masses to decide.

Either way, if there is a BF survival knife made that isn't a large chopper, I'm in regardless.
 
FLIX said:
Hi Guys,
I haven't read all of this thread, but it occurred to me that you will probably need the blessings of the gods of Blade Forums before using it on a knife.
-- FLIX
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True. There might be copyright issues or something. I think it was tknife (*Edited, I was wrong when I said tarmix in the original post) who said he'd check with Spark on the matter; thing is when you get into having a stamp or etch made with (for instance) the BF logo on it, however owns that logo is going to want a piece of the action and likely input on the knife itself. That's only fair. So if we keep it sort of low-key and maybe use "W&SS" or "W&S", it might avoid some entanglements.

I'm going to finish the idea I started with, as I said when I get her done I'll put her up for a pass-around. (More for my benefit as an aspiring maker, than yours, honestly!) But you guys are developing a darn fine knife as well and if you're not careful, you might find yourselves in the knife business!

I have to say 1095 would be my first choice in steel, with o-1,1084, W2, etc right on its heels. They all take very nice edges and are easily maintained and sharpened, as well as being very tough when HT'ed right.

The idea about having a few blanks made for those who wish to finish their own is a good one. Some of us actually prefer to "tinker" with that sort of thing. Don't forget that many fine blade blanks are already available (including Frost's Moras and Fallkniven blades) for the DIY guys out there, especially those who would prefer stainless steel.
 
GibsonFan said:
The idea about having a few blanks made for those who wish to finish their own is a good one. .
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Thats a cool idea!
It would be fun to know that a bunch of guys are all working on the very same basic blank.
It would be fun to see what they come up with after a month.
How they changed the design, or added sutff, or picked different ways to do the handle ...
 
Back on page 2 I think when this started to take off, I emailed Spark about this, but I don't think he's been around the past couple days.
 
It's not that I think a good survival blade must be a big chopper,
But to be a true survival blade the knife should have the ability to chop.

It does not have to be a great chopper, the fact is that a survival knife does not have to be great at any one thing.
But rather it's design should be such that it can be used in a pinch to do all kinds of jobs.

Too small of blade would limit the ability of being used to chop any size tree at all , so you would never want the blade the blade so small and thin that you have lost a chance to use the blade to do any chopping.
Too big of a blade and the whole knife becomes too much trouble to carry around.
So a good survival knife design has a blade of a length and thickness that if you had to, you could use the knife to take on the most common survival chopping needs, and finish the work good enough to allow the person "to live"...

And "to live" is the point of survival after all...
 
Yesterday everyone was keen on a "bushcraft" knife, now people want a "survival" knife...I guess it's back to square one.
 
I was afraid this would happen :) The original idea was for a relatively small knife that you could always have with you. I'm all for big knives, but I tend to not carry it on my belt. So if I got away from my pack, I'd still have a small, but stout knife and firestarter on my belt.
 
Why couldn't there be a slim and a stout version? (depends on how you define "slim" and "stout" I guess...)
 
I like this design.
It's not very big, but it's just big enough to be able to be usefull in the field.
I dont know a thing about the steel, but I like the shape of the knife and of the handle..
is this still too big for you guys?

[
ishiyumisan said:
knife57.jpg


QUOTE]
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GibsonFan said:
. I think it was tarmix who said he'd check with Spark on the matter;
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I believe it was tknife that was going to check with Spark;)


thing is when you get into having a stamp or etch made with (for instance) the BF logo on it, however owns that logo is going to want a piece of the action and likely input on the knife itself. That's only fair. So if we keep it sort of low-key and maybe use "W&SS" or "W&S", it might avoid some entanglements.
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Agreed. W&S is a good way to go. We will need a final word from Spark either way.

I'm going to finish the idea I started with, as I said when I get her done I'll put her up for a pass-around. (More for my benefit as an aspiring maker, than yours, honestly!) But you guys are developing a darn fine knife as well and if you're not careful, you might find yourselves in the knife business!
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Great idea. I'm in if you do the pass around:thumbup:

I have to say 1095 would be my first choice in steel, with o-1,1084, W2, etc right on its heels. They all take very nice edges and are easily maintained and sharpened, as well as being very tough when HT'ed right.
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1095, O-1, A-2, W-2 in that order for me.
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Allan Molstad said:
I like this design.
It's not very big, but it's just big enough to be able to be usefull in the field.
I dont know a thing about the steel, but I like the shape of the knife and of the handle..
is this still too big for you guys?
QUOTE]
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Like the design. To bid for me is anything over 5". I prefer a 4" blade, but a 5" would be OK.
 
Survival Sheath question.

I dont know much about the plastics,, but would Kydex bend or fold around a knife so you only have rivets on one side?
 
tarmix101 said:
Like the design. To bid for me is anything over 5". I prefer a 4" blade, but a 5" would be OK.
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The thing for me is that when I look at the knife in the photo, the handle seems a bit too long compared to the blade...

Thus I think that a good survival knife should at least have a blade thats the same length as the handle...it just seems to me that you would get more chopping power out of a smaller blade this way.
 
For steel i vote 1095. I would love a nice leather sheath with the firespark on the side (like on page 2). Lets stick to the BUSHCRAFT Knife, We can make a Survival knife later.
 
Allan Molstad said:
The thing for me is that when I look at the knife in the photo, the handle seems a bit too long compared to the blade...

Thus I think that a good survival knife should at least have a blade thats the same length as the handle...it just seems to me that you would get more chopping power out of a smaller blade this way.
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Agreed.

I do not use any of my small blades to chop, but would like them to be well suited for some batoning if called on. But that is just me. We are looking for a good, basic knife that will fit everyones idea of a good survival/bush knife. I am more that willing to compromise on my perfect knife to get this little project going.

I think we all will need to compromise a little to make this work. In the end if you hate what everyone has come up with, don't buy the knife;)
 
What's about the Marble's Woodcraft? Or the Greco Companion?
My vote would be for 1070-1080. Aren't they more forgiving to novice heat treaters? I've been asked by a soldier to make him a Geneva Comvention/Hague Accords compliant survival knife with the Tom Brown Tracker as a starting point. I've always considered the 4" Scandinavian style to be more of a Bird and Trout knife.
 
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