"Carl's Lounge" (Off-Topic Discussion, Traditional Knife "Tales & Vignettes")

So, I have been getting more and more enamored with Ren Wax. I'm rubbing it on my collector queens and liking the results. I had an old 60ml can that seems to still be up to the task after probably ten years? Ordered another just because. Any thoughts or warnings about Ren Wax? I'm finding it makes steel and natural cover material look great. Is there a downside?

I've been using it for a couple of years on stag, wood and carbon steel. I've had good results so far. A little goes a long way and it sure comes with some impressive references.
 
So, I have been getting more and more enamored with Ren Wax. I'm rubbing it on my collector queens and liking the results. I had an old 60ml can that seems to still be up to the task after probably ten years? Ordered another just because. Any thoughts or warnings about Ren Wax? I'm finding it makes steel and natural cover material look great. Is there a downside?
I've been using it for about 5 years with no ill effects. I bought the 200ml can. At the rate I go through it, I probably have about 20 years worth left. Really brings out the beauty of natural handles. Not so good on canvas micarta or G10.
 
Bernard Levine was asked to endorse RenWax for use on antique knives and he wouldn't since it is not easily removed. He recommends just wiping down metal parts with a rag damp with mineral oil.

In my opinion, it wipes off pretty easily. If there is build up, there are chemicals that will quickly dissolve wax. They're hazardous and might damage bone or dyes but you could use a rag to wipe off the blades without touching the bone covers. I've never found that to be necessary.

Bill Deshivs (sp?) says neutral shoe polish works just as well. I find the Renwax a little easier to work with.
 
So, I have been getting more and more enamored with Ren Wax. I'm rubbing it on my collector queens and liking the results. I had an old 60ml can that seems to still be up to the task after probably ten years? Ordered another just because. Any thoughts or warnings about Ren Wax? I'm finding it makes steel and natural cover material look great. Is there a downside?
I have long used Renaissance Wax on wood, leather, and metals for years with no ill effects. A 200ml can will last ages.
 
I've been using Ren Wax for about a year, on the carbon steel knives I don't use often. I still haven't got round to doing them all :o Not sure what size the can is, but I reckon it'll outlast me! :D

I used to use Camellia Oil (as recommended by BRL), but it congealed on the blades and in the joints, and even stripped the original polish off some of my best antique knives and razors :grumpy:

 
Every museum in the civilized world might know as much as BLR, Lord bless him.
I haven't sprung for Ren wax yet, but I think wax is better than oil for long-term storage. My fancy is that a bit of dust will suck up a bit of oil and make a hole for rust to start.
I haven't regretted using Johnson's paste wax.
 
I discovered Ren Wax a few years ago from a friends wife. She collects figurines and used it on them and really sang it's praises. So I tried it first on an old Peanut but used way to much and gunked it up pretty good. I finally realized with Ren Wax less is more. It only requires a very thin coat and I very lightly go over it with a microfiber cloth and really like it for the few safe queen I have. For users I prefer mineral oil.
 
I discovered Ren Wax a few years ago form a friends wife. She collects figurines and used it on them and really sang it's praises. So I tried it first on an old Peanut but used way to much and gunked it up pretty good. I finally realized with Ren Wax less is more. It only requires a very thin coat and I very lightly go over it with a microfiber cloth and really like it for the few safe queen I have. For users I prefer mineral oil.

ah yes, i remember that mineral oil discussion here. gotta protect those knives!!! keep em mint I say :)
 
Mint is good Jack but I just can't bring myself to pack them up and leave them alone most of the time. The ones that you and other folks have given to me are the ones it's easy to set aside because of the sentimental value I want to protect them. A good example a couple of months ago in a conversation with Barry (Gunstock Jack) I discovered he had a NIT Washington Jack we struck a deal and I bought it. I had full intentions of placing it in the locking Cherry wood, felt lined box I use for my safe queens. The knife is lying on the end table next to my chair with about 10 other knives I've been carrying lately. Oh yea I paid as much if not more for this knife as I ever have for a production slipjoint. At the same time the Boker Slim Line Trapper you gave to me is in the Cherry Wood Box

My table with EDC selection lately
M8zRFxx.jpg


Kind of a close up shot
WIKx2kD.jpg
 
I've been using Ren Wax for about a year, on the carbon steel knives I don't use often. I still haven't got round to doing them all :o Not sure what size the can is, but I reckon it'll outlast me! :D

I used to use Camellia Oil (as recommended by BRL), but it congealed on the blades and in the joints, and even stripped the original polish off some of my best antique knives and razors :grumpy:


Yikes! That doesn't look good. Cant blame you for switching

I agree with Randy, with Ren seems like a very thin coat is best. I also use either ballistoil or sentry on joints and user blades. Not for food use, but a very small amount of either of those really works well too.
 
I have long used Renaissance Wax on wood, leather, and metals for years with no ill effects. A 200ml can will last ages.

Leghog. Could not agree more. I'm not even sure how long since I bought this little 60ml can. Still about a quarter full. I ordered another to keep with me in my travels. Great stuff.

Have you tried sentry lubricant in the needle dispenser? Seems like it cleans off tape residue really well too.
 
Not me.. I don't like "waxy" or oily looking bone. too shiny, greasy and fake gross looking..
I don't put any kind of wax or oil on natural materials. I only put oil on the joints when I think it really needs it. (and even then, I wipe off any and all excess)

to me, jigging or stag looks best when there's some contrast in the finishes... the crevices or whatever you want to call it... the part that is jigged should have a flat/matte look to it... if its all waxed up it loses that charm IMO




like buffing a knife.. once its done, it can't really be undone.. some people dig the "Kentucky Mint" look though.


I guess I'm just weird like that
 
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Not me.. I don't like "waxy" or oily looking bone. too shiny, greasy and fake gross looking..
I don't put any kind of wax or oil on natural materials. I only put oil on the joints when I think it really needs it. (and even then, I wipe off any and all excess)

to me, jigging or stag looks best when there's some contrast in the finishes... the crevices or whatever you want to call it... the part that is jigged should have a flat/matte look to it... if its all waxed up it loses that charm IMO




like buffing a knife.. once its done, it can't really be undone.. some people dig the "Kentucky Mint" look though.


I guess I'm just weird like that

George65: Not weird at all! I don't completely agree, but it's a matter of preference. I find the Ren Wax actually cleans off crud, but doesn't really have a high shine to it. Maybe I'm doing it wrong? I generally prefer satin finishes if I can get them, although I have a lot of high polish factory pocket knives.

I've even found that Ren Wax removes the dark marks on the recent Muslin Micarta 13's. Again, I could be crazy (many highly respected people think so). I waxed the 13 micarta whittler and it did not take on a shine.

Just my 2cents.
 
Ethan Wayne. Born 1830 (after 17 hours labor) said. 8 lbs 10 oz, 21.75" long, 14.25" head! Wife's a trooper, I tell ya.

 
BEAUTIFUL Joey, many, many congrats to you and Momma!!! I was so over come with the birth of both our boys that I cried like a baby:thumbup:
 
Good lookin' boy! Congratulations!

Our baby boy had his 31st birthday on the 2nd.
 
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