Council Tool Flying Fox

Designed a sheath for it. :)

72551743_10219583607729224_4911581087668371456_n.jpg


71732611_10219583608209236_2918347831439785984_n.jpg
 
Some quick notes about the Flying Fox. First, it came fast and well packed as I'm accustomed to when buying from Baryonyx Knife Co. Kudos there.

Now on to the hatchet. It's very well made. The "sport utility finish" suits me fine. An axe should be first and foremost a utility tool. The bit, poll, top and bottom are accurately ground. The rest appears to be a sand cast finish. It came with a relatively sharp edge but with a noticeable burr on one side of the bit. I spent 60 seconds with an Arctic Fox round stone to clean it up. I took off the burr with the coarse side and then honed each side quickly with the fine side. This produced a good working edge but not quite shaving sharp.

The bit is perfectly aligned to haft.

1-Bit%20alignment.jpg


It's easier to control this alignment in cast steel than in forged steel. And cast steel can be just as good as forged steel it the heat treat is done right. I haven't file tested this yet but I will and I'll report back when I do.

The hang is extremely good with the eye filled tightly top and bottom. If it wasn't for the round wedge I'd be proud if all my hangs looked like this. I'm impressed.
2-Hang.jpg


The grain alignment in the handle is good. Not exactly perfect but nearly vertical and good enough that it gives me no concern whatsoever on this size/weight of tool. The handle wood is solid and rings like a piece of flawless hardwood should.
3-Grain alignment.jpg


I took it out back and did some chopping on a piece of fully seasoned black locust - a good solid hardwood. The bit experienced no chip or roll. Nor did it stick in the wood as many thin-bitted hatchets would.
4-Dry hardwood.jpg


Next I tried it on a semi-dry softwood, a piece of arborvitae. It didn't stick while chopping this softwood either, which is what I was testing.
5-Semi-dry%20softwood.jpg


Council has made a very good compromise in the geometry of this hatchet. Marketed as a throwing axe it has to be thin-bitted to stick reliably in the target. Still they've given it enough of a high centerline that it isn't sticky as a chopper. It's a fine balance but I think they've struck it well.
6-Slightly%20convex%20cheeks.jpg


If I were going to use it as a thrower I would resharpen the bit with a very slightly concave bevel to give it the maximum stick. As a camp utility chopper I will file the bevel back just a little further in the center and I will blend it in along the the entire bit. It will chop better after this.

Overall I'm very pleased and impressed with the tool. They got a lot of things right to a very high degree. For my uses as a camp utility hatchet I think it will benefit from being re-fitted on an 18" straight haft with a little more pronounced swell. In fact the only think I would mark this hatchet down on is the transition from grip to swell. It's not as pronounced as I would like. But this transition is appropriate for a thrower. Again a good compromise.
 
Glad it made it to you safe and sound, and that you're enjoying it as much as I am!

I think you'll find that the finish on it is not in any way the result of sand casting, but rather simply the as-forged finish resulting from the drop forging with finish-grinding omitted. It's why so many drop-forged implements either get a coat of paint or else get finish-ground to a smoother surface. Drop forging will always give you perfect bit alignment compared to open-die forging or multi-stage forming processes that are sort of halfway between using compression die forming. I'm actually kind of surprised that you'd suggest that they were sand cast, as I thought you knew all of this already? :)
 
Last edited:
Thanks, 42.

Are these 1060? Has anyone been able to confirm the steel?

1060 is their standard, so I'd presume it is. They only use 5160 on the Velvicut line, I think. The Flying Fox is listed under their Sport Utility section of their price list, so it shouldn't be a different material than the rest of the line, I don't expect.
 
Got some further info regarding the pebbly finish--apparently they're run through a Wheelabrator machine to ore-blast the scale off of them. Here are some photos I received of a batch of fire axes going into the machine. I also got confirmation that the Flying Fox heads are 1060.

71953911_433481237286117_4547902610165727232_n.jpg


71405776_2469223460018837_5387735885250822144_n.jpg
 
Some quick notes about the Flying Fox. First, it came fast and well packed as I'm accustomed to when buying from Baryonyx Knife Co. Kudos there.

Now on to the hatchet. It's very well made. The "sport utility finish" suits me fine. An axe should be first and foremost a utility tool. The bit, poll, top and bottom are accurately ground. The rest appears to be a sand cast finish. It came with a relatively sharp edge but with a noticeable burr on one side of the bit. I spent 60 seconds with an Arctic Fox round stone to clean it up. I took off the burr with the coarse side and then honed each side quickly with the fine side. This produced a good working edge but not quite shaving sharp.

The bit is perfectly aligned to haft.

1-Bit%20alignment.jpg


It's easier to control this alignment in cast steel than in forged steel. And cast steel can be just as good as forged steel it the heat treat is done right. I haven't file tested this yet but I will and I'll report back when I do.

The hang is extremely good with the eye filled tightly top and bottom. If it wasn't for the round wedge I'd be proud if all my hangs looked like this. I'm impressed.
2-Hang.jpg


The grain alignment in the handle is good. Not exactly perfect but nearly vertical and good enough that it gives me no concern whatsoever on this size/weight of tool. The handle wood is solid and rings like a piece of flawless hardwood should.
3-Grain alignment.jpg


I took it out back and did some chopping on a piece of fully seasoned black locust - a good solid hardwood. The bit experienced no chip or roll. Nor did it stick in the wood as many thin-bitted hatchets would.
4-Dry hardwood.jpg


Next I tried it on a semi-dry softwood, a piece of arborvitae. It didn't stick while chopping this softwood either, which is what I was testing.
5-Semi-dry%20softwood.jpg


Council has made a very good compromise in the geometry of this hatchet. Marketed as a throwing axe it has to be thin-bitted to stick reliably in the target. Still they've given it enough of a high centerline that it isn't sticky as a chopper. It's a fine balance but I think they've struck it well.
6-Slightly%20convex%20cheeks.jpg


If I were going to use it as a thrower I would resharpen the bit with a very slightly concave bevel to give it the maximum stick. As a camp utility chopper I will file the bevel back just a little further in the center and I will blend it in along the the entire bit. It will chop better after this.

Overall I'm very pleased and impressed with the tool. They got a lot of things right to a very high degree. For my uses as a camp utility hatchet I think it will benefit from being re-fitted on an 18" straight haft with a little more pronounced swell. In fact the only think I would mark this hatchet down on is the transition from grip to swell. It's not as pronounced as I would like. But this transition is appropriate for a thrower. Again a good compromise.
It does look pretty thick in the bit. Is it convex or chisel ground?
 
I have yet to use mine but I picked it up today. (It was great to meet you 42blades!).
20191010_142212.jpg
20191010_142227.jpg
Very good first impression. Haft needs some slimming but that's fine.
I purchased mine with the factory grind. It's chisel ground to 21° inclusive. It does have a small amount of radius right at the cutting edge. So it's not completely chisel ground but mostly. I know how strong these mechanical hangs are and after slimming this will be a very nice, usable little hatchet. So I'll not change out the haft on it.
It feels balanced and even though it should matter less than it does it looks badass too! I'll post it up again once I've got it where I want it both in haft and cutting edge. A thoughtfully made and good looking product!
 
That thick chisel ground bit probably isn't going to please everyone.
Not sure why you seem to think it's thick? I like mine a touch thinner right at the apex and a touch off the shoulder, but it's a pretty good geometry out of the box, overall. The visually bright edge bevel goes back about 10mm (0.4") and it's only 3.8mm (0.15") thick at that point.
 
Just by looking...



And how thick are those full-sized axes 0.4" behind the edge? Bear in mind, this is a hatchet. ;) Seriously, it's not at all thick or chunky. It might not be as dialed in as it would be after an experienced user works it over to their liking, but for a stock geometry it's really quite good.
 
And how thick are those full-sized axes 0.4" behind the edge? Bear in mind, this is a hatchet. ;) Seriously, it's not at all thick or chunky. It might not be as dialed in as it would be after an experienced user works it over to their liking, but for a stock geometry it's really quite good.
Not sure where my calipers have run off to but I am a bit unorganised at the moment getting ready to go hunting.
Those are hatchets also and two of the three are hardened polled TT's with the middle one being a common Plumb scout axe.
I will get one of those hatchets when hunting season is over next month and see how it stacks up or is it not fair to compare it to a vintage hatchet?
 
I had 42 send my B with the haft cutoff. Just took the time to clear the eye. 4 eye ridges.

It's not the whole bit that's thick, just the edge finalises pretty obtuse - but only in areas. Rolled it a little too much in hand while finishing on the belt, seems like. But overall the geometry isn't bad, no. Worth it to have 42 touch it up if you don't want to yourself. Should only take a couple mins with a file or 30 secs on a belt. Still better than any other domestic mass manufacturer by leagues. Don't know if I'll get it hung tonight, getting it's own haft. Rived billet cut for 22 for wiggle room, might wind up ~20" though. They should might be putting these on their 19" hafts as an option. Will see. Pics soon.
 
I'd say it's fair to compare them against vintage axes. They're certainly not as polished as a lot of older axes were, but they're a very strong value, and if a user wanted to put a finer finish on them, it's easily done with an angle grinder and flap discs. As-is, they're functionally fine. I think the apex being thickened is possibly deliberate to create a "tough" edge for the lowest common denominator of users, as is common, but it's just a tiny thickening right at the apex that's pretty quickly knocked off, while being pretty good and thin right behind that. A good compromise for a factory edge that's already prone towards cutting through the rubber edge covers they send 'em out with. Is it gonna' tickle everyone's fancy? Probably not. But it uses a design based on some classic patterns, and the foundation it's built on is solid. Everything else is taken care of by us picky folks in additional grinding/polishing/rasping, which allows it to hit a very low price point for the overall quality. :)
 
I'd say it's fair to compare them against vintage axes. They're certainly not as polished as a lot of older axes were, but they're a very strong value, and if a user wanted to put a finer finish on them, it's easily done with an angle grinder and flap discs. As-is, they're functionally fine. I think the apex being thickened is possibly deliberate to create a "tough" edge for the lowest common denominator of users, as is common, but it's just a tiny thickening right at the apex that's pretty quickly knocked off, while being pretty good and thin right behind that. A good compromise for a factory edge that's already prone towards cutting through the rubber edge covers they send 'em out with. Is it gonna' tickle everyone's fancy? Probably not. But it uses a design based on some classic patterns, and the foundation it's built on is solid. Everything else is taken care of by us picky folks in additional grinding/polishing/rasping, which allows it to hit a very low price point for the overall quality. :)
I think it would be a fair comparison too because if a manufacturer wants to build a better mouse trap and put a chisel grind on a hatchet which is very nontraditional we should see how it stacks up to a traditional convex edge. I think I have the trio of the hard poll True Tempers with about the same length handle and roughly the same weight. Should we compare it to other hatchets? Open to suggestions here and I am not interested in the fit and finish, just performance.
 
I think it would be a fair comparison too because if a manufacturer wants to build a better mouse trap and put a chisel grind on a hatchet which is very nontraditional we should see how it stacks up to a traditional convex edge. I think I have the trio of the hard poll True Tempers with about the same length handle and roughly the same weight. Should we compare it to other hatchets? Open to suggestions here and I am not interested in the fit and finish, just performance.

It's not a chisel grind. It's a convex, but the degree of convexity varies from piece to piece, with some being a little "flatter" and some being more blended. Even in the case of the flatter ones, it's trivial to knock off the transition shoulder. Probably 10 strokes of a file per side would do it.

I can try to photograph the convexity of the edges tomorrow, but it's very easily seen if you put a straight edge to the bevel. :)
 
Last edited:
Back
Top