ron_m80
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I think about an 18" blade x 3mm, with hand (5.5) plus another 2-3 inches on ergo style handle, with a slightly different slope(sometimes a hand and a half helps when chopping).
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- Thread starter Jerry Busse
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I think about an 18" blade x 3mm, with hand (5.5) plus another 2-3 inches on ergo style handle, with a slightly different slope(sometimes a hand and a half helps when chopping).
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- Sep 9, 2006
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The first idea that comes to mind would be a combination mojo and NMSFNO. Not sure whether to choose the euro handle or the hand shaped nmsfno slabs. THe edge would be the recurve of the mr. mojo with the spine of the NMSFNO. Blade would be 81/2 inches
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- May 24, 2008
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i would love to see a mini ash-1 with a 3.5 or 4" blade, I NEED ME A NICE LITTLE ASH!!!
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- Nov 22, 2007
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Sus Scrofa II
DowntownDM
BANNED
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- May 11, 2007
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I desperately need a SHSJ that doesn't cost $700+. Perhaps make it flat ground or convex just to spice it up a bit
this...
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- Feb 21, 2003
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3/16" EU-17 with a 4" blade and a convex grind say blade 1.25" wide. Or Eu-17, with 3/16th" thickness with a 10" blade long and 2" wide with a convex grind.
An Asian style fighting sword.
Basically start with an AK47 & make the following mods. Put a very slight curve to the handle. Have the blade begin to widen out starting about half way down the blade, but then come back to a point as we get to the tip of the blade. Widest part of blade about 1.5 the width near handle. Blade should slightly curve from mid-point of blade to tip. The rear section of blade should also be sharpened back to mid-point of blade.
Just love any sword.
Basically start with an AK47 & make the following mods. Put a very slight curve to the handle. Have the blade begin to widen out starting about half way down the blade, but then come back to a point as we get to the tip of the blade. Widest part of blade about 1.5 the width near handle. Blade should slightly curve from mid-point of blade to tip. The rear section of blade should also be sharpened back to mid-point of blade.
Just love any sword.
Soulrack223
Gold Member
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- May 8, 2007
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Ok, I've told Garth this one before (I'm still waiting Garth)
I think a 6-7" fighter narrow blade, straight spine, nothing fancy with the blade. However, the handle will be super-cool. Skeleton handles to reduce weight, with INFI overlayed handle slabs (patterned with grooves similar to the Rodent Waki) Attached with solid pins. Yes, you heard it here boys, INFI handle Slabs..... think it over....super cool....
This would be the first Busse knife that would be entirely made of INFI (minus the pins) Blade, and Handle Slabs would all be INFI.
Of course to truly show this off it would need to be satin and DC, satin blade, DC slabs to show the contrast.
This would be almost as sweet as the BISHFF -- Busse Integral Sub-Hilt Flying Fighter!!! But seriously, a great, unique design feature would be INFI scales!
Skeleton Active Duty is a really good idea too. :thumbup:
I posted this on page one. It is an AWESOME idea.
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- Nov 22, 2007
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Culti on steroids. One more inch of blade and proportionally wider would make a damn fine bushcraft knife.
Wow, Most of my favorite wish-lists have already been mentioned. True INFI machete (16 and 12 Inch), Vex style slicer or even smaller paring knife, folder, 6" filet, 6 and 8 CCK style chinese cleaver (maybe one sharpened on two sides)... Those would all be great!
However, since this is Busse "Combat" how about an Applegate Fairbairn style/tribute double edged fighting knife. Maybe on the large side 12" OAL. Very sexy!
Then maybe its really big brother - a Spartan style Xiphos. Something completely useless except for Zombie attacks.
However, since this is Busse "Combat" how about an Applegate Fairbairn style/tribute double edged fighting knife. Maybe on the large side 12" OAL. Very sexy!
Then maybe its really big brother - a Spartan style Xiphos. Something completely useless except for Zombie attacks.
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- Jan 21, 2000
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Busse Large Hunter:
10-inch overall length. 5 ½” blade from handle to point, standard Busse choil, 4 ½” handle, 3/16” stock. Handle is from the original straight Satin Jack design but pommel is rounded smooth with no protrusions, micarta flush with tang all the way around, rope grooves.
Edge starts away from the choil at a DOWNWARD angle from centerline to a deep belly. Top of spine is clean and straight out to a swedged clip (straight clip, not dished), the clip running half the length of the blade.
Thoughts on Design:
1. The way the edge starts from the face of the handle at a downward angle does two things: a) it helps hold material on the edge in a pull-cut much like a recurve does but keeps the edge in line for straightforward sharpening; and b) it develops a deep belly, well-positioned for skinning.
2. The clip also does two things: a) the combination of the length of the clip, starting about midway between hilt and point, together with the clip angle, forms a fine working point positioned well for penetration. On a larger hunting blade like this, I appreciate a fine point when working around joints and in tight places; and b) the clip is straight rather than dished, so it can be laid flat against a hide to precisely guide the start of a skinning cut.
3. Neither the spine nor the top of the handle rises above the top line of the knife. This is primarily a cosmetic thing with me, but is also a positioning function. I prefer knives that don’t “break back” at an angle between spine and handle, with neither the line of the spine nor the top line of the handle rising up from level. I appreciate a design with the spine in-line with the top line of the handle, then dropping away slightly at the butt.
4. The contours of the SJ handle achieve several things: a) the rounded butt is comfortable when tucked into the center of the palm, so that the index finger can be laid along the top of the handle for controlled point-work/penetration as when taking out back straps; b) the rounded butt is also comfortable to strike with the palm, to start the point into resistant materials; c) the contouring along the bottom of the handle allows good control, security and comfort in all positions, including pull-cuts with the handle upside down; and d) the subtle “bird’s head” bulge at the butt gives something to pull against to free the knife if the blade binds in something.
5. Finally, I would really love to see a full Nuclear Meltdown treatment to make the knife comfortable for use in all holds/positions.
ADDED NOTE--Playing with two angles, 1) the downward angle of the clip coming off the spine and 2) the downward angle of the edge coming off the handle, this design has the potential to look like anything from a subtle conventional hunter to a Hibben/Ryan aboriginal donkey (wild-ass) collaboration.
Thanks for listening!
Will
10-inch overall length. 5 ½” blade from handle to point, standard Busse choil, 4 ½” handle, 3/16” stock. Handle is from the original straight Satin Jack design but pommel is rounded smooth with no protrusions, micarta flush with tang all the way around, rope grooves.
Edge starts away from the choil at a DOWNWARD angle from centerline to a deep belly. Top of spine is clean and straight out to a swedged clip (straight clip, not dished), the clip running half the length of the blade.
Thoughts on Design:
1. The way the edge starts from the face of the handle at a downward angle does two things: a) it helps hold material on the edge in a pull-cut much like a recurve does but keeps the edge in line for straightforward sharpening; and b) it develops a deep belly, well-positioned for skinning.
2. The clip also does two things: a) the combination of the length of the clip, starting about midway between hilt and point, together with the clip angle, forms a fine working point positioned well for penetration. On a larger hunting blade like this, I appreciate a fine point when working around joints and in tight places; and b) the clip is straight rather than dished, so it can be laid flat against a hide to precisely guide the start of a skinning cut.
3. Neither the spine nor the top of the handle rises above the top line of the knife. This is primarily a cosmetic thing with me, but is also a positioning function. I prefer knives that don’t “break back” at an angle between spine and handle, with neither the line of the spine nor the top line of the handle rising up from level. I appreciate a design with the spine in-line with the top line of the handle, then dropping away slightly at the butt.
4. The contours of the SJ handle achieve several things: a) the rounded butt is comfortable when tucked into the center of the palm, so that the index finger can be laid along the top of the handle for controlled point-work/penetration as when taking out back straps; b) the rounded butt is also comfortable to strike with the palm, to start the point into resistant materials; c) the contouring along the bottom of the handle allows good control, security and comfort in all positions, including pull-cuts with the handle upside down; and d) the subtle “bird’s head” bulge at the butt gives something to pull against to free the knife if the blade binds in something.
5. Finally, I would really love to see a full Nuclear Meltdown treatment to make the knife comfortable for use in all holds/positions.
ADDED NOTE--Playing with two angles, 1) the downward angle of the clip coming off the spine and 2) the downward angle of the edge coming off the handle, this design has the potential to look like anything from a subtle conventional hunter to a Hibben/Ryan aboriginal donkey (wild-ass) collaboration.
Thanks for listening!
Will
Last edited:
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- Dec 7, 2008
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I would love to see a set of a kitchen knifes from Busse. That would be definitely the most used knife in the house. With the properties of INFI and quality of Busse those knifes would be passed from generation to generation.
One more wish would be a decent thing knife with the size of Meaner Street and shape of SJ.
One more wish would be a decent thing knife with the size of Meaner Street and shape of SJ.
LMT66
Gold Member
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- Jun 18, 2008
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- 11,267
With just a tiny choil to aid in sharpening. Anychoil on a small to medium size blade bigger than 1/8" is too big.
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
The winning knife should be the love-child of a straight handle Satin Jack and a toothless ST-Ripper (but, in Jerry Springeresque tradition, a Gerber 400 Presentation model's "genes" made their way into the mix).
I do appreciate these thick, massive choppers that I often see from Busse, but I've always been a HUGE fan of 4-6" bladed knives, with THIN blades.
For reference, my all-time favorite knife is the Gerber 400 presentation model.
That knife has cleaned over 100 deer, 30 elk, 10 moose, 2 buffalo, 1 antelope, and countless fish. It has also chopped down 2 trees (when we shot the moose in the middle of nowhere on an early-season scouting trip, that turned into an opportunity we couldn't pass up), and cut off thousands of limbs from trees who had the nerve to grow in my line-of-sight.
I LOVE that knife. I find it to be the absolute perfect size, and I've never found myself wanting more of a blade when outside.
Choppers are great, but give me a skinner-utility knife please!
4-5" cutting surface, THIN blade, comfortable handle, and you've got a winner!
IMHO
Oh, and choils are a personal favorite . . .
I do appreciate these thick, massive choppers that I often see from Busse, but I've always been a HUGE fan of 4-6" bladed knives, with THIN blades.
For reference, my all-time favorite knife is the Gerber 400 presentation model.
That knife has cleaned over 100 deer, 30 elk, 10 moose, 2 buffalo, 1 antelope, and countless fish. It has also chopped down 2 trees (when we shot the moose in the middle of nowhere on an early-season scouting trip, that turned into an opportunity we couldn't pass up), and cut off thousands of limbs from trees who had the nerve to grow in my line-of-sight.
I LOVE that knife. I find it to be the absolute perfect size, and I've never found myself wanting more of a blade when outside.
Choppers are great, but give me a skinner-utility knife please!
4-5" cutting surface, THIN blade, comfortable handle, and you've got a winner!
IMHO
Oh, and choils are a personal favorite . . .
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