Cult of the peanut , members

Reading through this thread has me carrying my peanut right along side my GEC 85. The little beauty kick the modern folders (a boker gnome or spyderco sage ll) that normally accompanies the 85 right back to the box.

Here she is hanging around my desk at the office today;
2014-02-04
 
I have three Peanuts two CV & one SS, and have been mostly carrying the Chestnut ,not to keen on the feel of the Yeller, anyhoo a few days ago i thought i would give the Amber bone SS a runout and i have to say it slices like a dream and so far no sign of losing its edge, my question is am i headed for a let down ie harder to keep an edge on ? Also i confess i am not that keen on patina and that Amber bone is sweeet.

I wouldn't give it a second thought. Case stainless steel, called by the name True Sgarp, is not bad stuff at all. It's certainly no worse than the SAK stainless that I have no trouble with. In day to day use for what a small jack will be used for, I doubt you will see any difference. It's a little harder to get sharp because of the gummy nature of stainless steel for a burr to hang on in a stubborn manor. Bt there is a technique with stainless steel that I find to be very useful.

Don't put a hair whittling edge on it.

For all my stainless blades, to include the SAK's that people say get dull after a few cuts in anything soft, I just sharpen on my old boy scout stone. This is one of those gray synthetic silica oxide stones that put on a very toothy edge. I find that with stainless a slight corse toothy edge works way better than a highly polished or stropped edge. It will shave paper very well, and the thing about toothy is that it goes right through twine, rope, cardboard, and holds an edge better. Stainless and CV are two different steels, and need to be sharpened two different ways. I just find that for my uses, stainless (true sharp) seems to function better with a coarser toothy edge.

Try one of those Norton silica stones they have at Lowes or Home Depot. And strop it lightly, just enough to remove the burr, not polish the blade.

Carl, Grand High Muckba of The Cult.
 
Last edited:
I have a new to me peanut in harvest orange Pocket Worn bone and Tru-sharp blades that I was lucky enough to be picked as the new owner in Leghog's give away late last year. I don't think I've posted it here, but I'm up to six of them now. Won't be long at this rate before I have a sack full... :)

100_2755_zpsc780c375.jpg


Ed J
 
I wouldn't give it a second thought. Case stainless steel, called by the name True Sgarp, is not bad stuff at all. It's certainly no worse than the SAK stainless that I have no trouble with. In day to day use for what a small jack will be used for, I doubt you will see any difference. It's a little harder to get sharp because of the gummy nature of stainless steel for a burr to hang on in a stubborn major. Bt there is a technique with stainless steel that I find to be very useful.

Don't put a hair whittling edge on it. <snip>

Classic Jackknife wisdom here, simple, yet brilliant :)

I've been chasing an accursed wire edge on my TruSharp Peanut, and a tendency for the main clip blade to get a tiny flat spot right where the center brass pin goes through the back spring, the act of closing the blade creates that small dull spot, doesn't matter if I ease the clip closed or let it snap closed, a flat spot results....

I realize this is a minor, fleeting issue, once I get a few good sharpenings on the clip blade, the problem should correct itself, and there should be no more flat spotting....

Thanks to Jackknife's wisdom, and the slower, more relaxed pace of the Traditionals forum, it's helped me take a step back, relax, and decide what's really important, and not be annoyed by immediate, albeit temporary, "imperfections" in my knives and in my life in general...

Besides, not carrying a scalpel sharp SS 'Nut gives me the perfect excuse......

To carry......

TWO Peanuts ;)......

One regular SS 'nut, and one Scary Sharp CV 'nut....
;)
 
Here is a knife that had a wake up call from the coarser synthetic stone. So many people repeat all kinds of bunk about SAK's loosing their edge if you look at hem hard. Well, SAK steel is a bit softer, down in the mid 50's RC. BUT…put a toothy coarser edge on it, and you have a whole different breed of cat that has sharp claws. Same for the Case True Sharp.

Knife knuts are dumb when it comes to knife sharpening. The obsessed knife knut will figure the sharper the better, and he then treats all steels the same. BUT…not all steels are the same. They react differently according to what's in them, and how hard are they. Knife knuts make a very big deal over the latest steel taken to high RC levels, and think anything not equivalent to be junk. Go back a hundred years and you'll find pocket knife blades were quite a bit softer than todays miracle steels. And if a SAK is so bad, how come they are the worlds leading seller of pocket knives? The reason is, the rest of the world is not obsessed with hair whittling sharpness. They just want to cut a rope, some canvas, maybe something to eat. They also don't want to have to use mechanized or high tech knife sharpeners. Work sharps and edge-pros and other gizmos may be in short supply in the middle of the Amazon, an archeological dig in the mid-east, or even a space vehicle in orbit. Were's all this leading to?

The joe average knife guy the world over has a sharpening stone. Maybe. And it's not going to be a super fine 3,000,000 grit waterstone from a mythical country the other side of the rainbow. No, if he's lucky he has a single old sharpening stone out in the garage, or down the basement on the workbench. Or he may have just a piece of brick, broken coffee mug, a smooth stone picket up out of the creek. But that's all he really needs.

The fine people at Case are very much like the fine people at Victorinox. They make pocket knives for the masses. Not the obsessed knife knuts. They make a steel that is good for the joe average knife user. And it needs to be treated a little different than a high RC blade of the latest whiz bang wonder steel of the month. Take the SAL or the Case true sharp, and just sharpen it on a coarse synthetic stone of 300 or so grit, and you'll see a big difference in both cutting and edge holding. Don't get into the umpteen thousand grit super knife sharpening gizmo, because it's wasted effort. It is, what it is. A mundane steel for the joe average knife user who just needs to cut something. Not looking to slice an atom while it whizzes by, or slice a silk scarf in two as it floats down on the blade, like in some fairy tale out of The Arabian Nights.

Try a coarser toothy edge on the true sharp, and you just might see a difference. True sharp does not need to bow it's head.
10056640313_778d96a51a_c.jpg
 
^ wisdom... I found that out myself trying to get too fine an edge on my Peanut(s). They had a great edge from the coarse stones, but I couldn't leave well enough alone and just "had" to go to finer stones... then back to the coarse, round and round til I learned to leave well enough alone : )

~Jim
 
Which was the first Case Peanut? Was it the yellow Delrin CV? Or chestnut bone CV? Something else?
 
Here is a knife that had a wake up call from the coarser synthetic stone. So many people repeat all kinds of bunk about SAK's loosing their edge if you look at hem hard. Well, SAK steel is a bit softer, down in the mid 50's RC. BUT&#8230;put a toothy coarser edge on it, and you have a whole different breed of cat that has sharp claws. Same for the Case True Sharp.

Knife knuts are dumb when it comes to knife sharpening. The obsessed knife knut will figure the sharper the better, and he then treats all steels the same. BUT&#8230;not all steels are the same. They react differently according to what's in them, and how hard are they. Knife knuts make a very big deal over the latest steel taken to high RC levels, and think anything not equivalent to be junk. Go back a hundred years and you'll find pocket knife blades were quite a bit softer than todays miracle steels. And if a SAK is so bad, how come they are the worlds leading seller of pocket knives? The reason is, the rest of the world is not obsessed with hair whittling sharpness. They just want to cut a rope, some canvas, maybe something to eat. They also don't want to have to use mechanized or high tech knife sharpeners. Work sharps and edge-pros and other gizmos may be in short supply in the middle of the Amazon, an archeological dig in the mid-east, or even a space vehicle in orbit. Were's all this leading to?

The joe average knife guy the world over has a sharpening stone. Maybe. And it's not going to be a super fine 3,000,000 grit waterstone from a mythical country the other side of the rainbow. No, if he's lucky he has a single old sharpening stone out in the garage, or down the basement on the workbench. Or he may have just a piece of brick, broken coffee mug, a smooth stone picket up out of the creek. But that's all he really needs.

The fine people at Case are very much like the fine people at Victorinox. They make pocket knives for the masses. Not the obsessed knife knuts. They make a steel that is good for the joe average knife user. And it needs to be treated a little different than a high RC blade of the latest whiz bang wonder steel of the month. Take the SAL or the Case true sharp, and just sharpen it on a coarse synthetic stone of 300 or so grit, and you'll see a big difference in both cutting and edge holding. Don't get into the umpteen thousand grit super knife sharpening gizmo, because it's wasted effort. It is, what it is. A mundane steel for the joe average knife user who just needs to cut something. Not looking to slice an atom while it whizzes by, or slice a silk scarf in two as it floats down on the blade, like in some fairy tale out of The Arabian Nights.

Try a coarser toothy edge on the true sharp, and you just might see a difference. True sharp does not need to bow it's head.
10056640313_778d96a51a_c.jpg
[/

Jacknife you have reminded me what i should of known, my only defence is that for too long i have been a Spyderco man, fine knives but without the character of traditionals and of course some very fancy steels combined with a Sharpmaker and before you know it you have not got a hair on your forearm.So it looks as if i shall have to re-acquaint myself with my dads old whetstones they must be in their nineties by now but i figure they still have plenty of life in them,i shall just have to go back to school but if i read you right just settle back and take my time, also take note of SonnyJim and "learn to leave well enough alone".I have a Rough Rider peanut inbound so i shall practice on it and if i make a muck of it no biggy...
 
I'm not sure about posting YouTube videos on here, so Google search "SAK rope cutting test". The video is 16 minutes long by jdavis something. Anyway, he cuts through tons of rope and can still slice paper, he seems pretty shocked himself at how well it performed.

They're not super steel but they are good and work well. Like jackknife said, they feel kind of gummy when sharpening so leaving a toothier edge on them makes perfect sense to me.

One plus of SAK steel, and Trust Sharp seems very similar, is that it is near impossible to get it to rust.
 
What makes a knife a peanut? Does it have to have the name peanut given to it by the manufacturer? The reason I ask is - would my Uncle Henry be considered a single-blade peanut? It's nearly identical in size to my Case Peanuts. Similar shape too. So, is it a peanut or not?

 
What makes a knife a peanut? Does it have to have the name peanut given to it by the manufacturer? The reason I ask is - would my Uncle Henry be considered a single-blade peanut? It's nearly identical in size to my Case Peanuts. Similar shape too. So, is it a peanut or not?



My understanding is that the Case #20 pattern is technically a small serpentine style jack knife that collectors called a peanut and the name stuck. I have a Ulster 183Y that I call a peanut, but Ulster calls it a dogleg jack and a Camillus # 21 that I would consider a nut or nut size/style but is named a pony jack





Pete
 
Oh heck yes, Andya! Like I said before, cousins have to accepted as family, even if they are from the 'other' side of the tracks!

Carl, Grand High Muckba of the small family.
 
Thanks, guys. I have yet another Case Peanut on the say - a chestnut bone CV. They are addictive.
 
A new arrival in the morning mail. I had expected it next week - and it arrived today. Definitely like the chestnut bone handles.

 
A new arrival in the morning mail. I had expected it next week - and it arrived today. Definitely like the chestnut bone handles.


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Great looking pocket knife! I think the chestnut bone is the material that Case does the best job on. It always looks great, no matter what the knife is.
 
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Great looking pocket knife! I think the chestnut bone is the material that Case does the best job on. It always looks great, no matter what the knife is.

I agree with you Carl, it seems they spend extra time on the details of the Chestnut series, now if they could do the pen knife and the Eisenhower in the Chestnut bone & CV.......dare to dream.

Andy congrats on the Chestnut bone it looks great.

Pete
 
Thanks, guys. The chestnut bone is the best bone color and material I have yet received from Case.

But I have to admit that they did a fine job with this stag peanut.

 
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Great looking pocket knife! I think the chestnut bone is the material that Case does the best job on. It always looks great, no matter what the knife is.

I happen to agree, that is probably the reason my peanut, trapper, and sbj are all chestnut. :D
 
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Great looking pocket knife! I think the chestnut bone is the material that Case does the best job on. It always looks great, no matter what the knife is.

In the ones I see, the Chestnut Bone is great. I did get a medium stockman that I thought was pretty bland on the coloring.... it was all one color. I'm going to try a peanut in this bone though.
 
Back
Top