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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
DPx H.E.S.T.after first use.
- Thread starter swamp
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- Apr 30, 2011
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- 231
At my house and in fall/winter on the trail I use a axe. Very common for a native New Englander.
For saplings for shelter I use the saw on my SAK. $20 at Target.
Different strokes for different folks I guess.
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- Sep 16, 2005
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I've heard of people batoning with certain folders and having no mechanical ill effects are physical problems with the knife afterword, and then I've also heard of people batoning one session and whamo this things a turd.
I think a folder regardless of make and model is not designed, made, etc. to withstand those kinds of forces, its a folding knife its made to cut, slice and perhaps pierce and only certain types of media, like wood, meat, hide, paper, card board, etc. It also seems that variables such as force, angle, hardness of media and length of time engaged in batoning seems to be the factor which allows some folders to come out of this process unscathed and yet leave others wrecked. Heck even the same user with same knife and same batch of wood that yield no ill effects on a folder may the second time wipe the folder out, if say the 2*4 happens to be harder because its drier than the other pieces, the user used a slightly different angle and or differing amount of force.
So under ideal conditions certain folders may seemingly come out unscathed from batoning but given their very nature (broken in the middle) sooner or later and my guess is sooner those ideal conditions are not going to met and whamo the things a turd. Bottom line folders simply are not designed for that kinda of activity, axes, log splitters, mauls and wedges are.
Swamp, I've seen some pics of your knives, you have some good folders may I kindly suggest to you that if you want those nice folders to remain structural sound you avoid batoning with them regardless of the make and model. If batoning is your thing get you some quality fixed blades and have at it, leave the folders for things like skinning deer, cutting apples and opening boxes.
I think a folder regardless of make and model is not designed, made, etc. to withstand those kinds of forces, its a folding knife its made to cut, slice and perhaps pierce and only certain types of media, like wood, meat, hide, paper, card board, etc. It also seems that variables such as force, angle, hardness of media and length of time engaged in batoning seems to be the factor which allows some folders to come out of this process unscathed and yet leave others wrecked. Heck even the same user with same knife and same batch of wood that yield no ill effects on a folder may the second time wipe the folder out, if say the 2*4 happens to be harder because its drier than the other pieces, the user used a slightly different angle and or differing amount of force.
So under ideal conditions certain folders may seemingly come out unscathed from batoning but given their very nature (broken in the middle) sooner or later and my guess is sooner those ideal conditions are not going to met and whamo the things a turd. Bottom line folders simply are not designed for that kinda of activity, axes, log splitters, mauls and wedges are.
Swamp, I've seen some pics of your knives, you have some good folders may I kindly suggest to you that if you want those nice folders to remain structural sound you avoid batoning with them regardless of the make and model. If batoning is your thing get you some quality fixed blades and have at it, leave the folders for things like skinning deer, cutting apples and opening boxes.
I have no intentions on asking for a new knife or refund. That wouldn't be right. Lol!
Mikec I have a fehrman final judgement. Should have used it I guess. Anyway enough about the knife I still am carrying it and with the rotoblock on it's safe. General consensus on bladeforums DON'T BATTON WITH A FOLDER! Thanks everyone for your input.
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Try disassembling it and reassembling it carefully and see if the lock bar seats back to a solid position. They come apart and go back together quite easily. And in case no one knows yet, the hole in the dark, "special" pivot screw is a Torx too so you don't need that "special" tool. Both sides of the pivot are Torx. Unscrew the four hole screw to about 2 or three threads left and push the barrel out from the opposite side with the four hole screw. The G10 slab will wiggle off of the screw posts once the little screws are out. Mine didn't have any Loctite that I could tell. I cleaned her up from the black, factory grease/oil, added a small amount of a Mil Tec 1/Rem Oil mix and reassembled the knife and it became twice as smooth and the lockup improved too. You could even bend the lock bar out a tad more but do that sparingly. Make sure the lock bar face and the contact point on the tang are lube free before you reassemble. Lube on the tang and/or lock bar face often cause lock rock. The smaller Nylon washer goes on the Ti side.
At this point, it's worth a try now
At this point, it's worth a try now
What exactly do you need to baton? If you want to baton so badly buy a fixed blade or hatchet but don't be an idiot and use expensive folders.
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Thanks, I will try that tonight.
Try disassembling it and reassembling it carefully and see if the lock bar seats back to a solid position. They come apart and go back together quite easily. And in case no one knows yet, the hole in the dark, "special" pivot screw is a Torx too so you don't need that "special" tool. Both sides of the pivot are Torx. Unscrew the four hole screw to about 2 or three threads left and push the barrel out from the opposite side with the four hole screw. The G10 slab will wiggle off of the screw posts once the little screws are out. Mine didn't have any Loctite that I could tell. I cleaned her up from the black, factory grease/oil, added a small amount of a Mil Tec 1/Rem Oil mix and reassembled the knife and it became twice as smooth and the lockup improved too. You could even bend the lock bar out a tad more but do that sparingly. Make sure the lock bar face and the contact point on the tang are lube free before you reassemble. Lube on the tang and/or lock bar face often cause lock rock. The smaller Nylon washer goes on the Ti side.
At this point, it's worth a try now
You know it's kind of funny. I spend MY money on my knife. I should be able (and am) to do whatever I want to with it. I don't tell my buddy, hey don't go mudding in your new 45k truck. And he doesn't tell me what to do either with my personal property either. BTW: I am uploading a new YouTube video as I type of me making more kindling. Lol
You're absolutely right. It is your money and you have every right to do what ever foolish things you want to do with it. However when your folders break or start malfunctioning from your stupidity do not come crying to us about it you moron.
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- Jan 20, 2008
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The man admits that he put the knife through some abuse, he says he is not going after the dealer to get a replacement, but he did come here to say "What's up with this?". Seems like we all do that from time to time. Give the guy some slack.
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lmao thats just funny knifein
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- Sep 13, 2011
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Yet even after being told multiple times by multiple people that what he's doing is a phenomenally bad idea, he says he's going to keep doing it with even more expensive folders.
Also, he made a specific point of blaming the folder and that it obviously wasn't expensive enough instead of blaming his own actions. Quoted here:
Any sympathy I had for the flaming swamp's taken in this thread went right out the window with that beauty.
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- Aug 5, 2008
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It seems the wrong "tool" is being blamed.
That my friend is called sarcasm.lol
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- Aug 16, 2008
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Let me know how it goes - I'm willing to bet there is a much better than 50/50 chance she comes back to life if nothing was bent or damaged to the lock up components. Check the hole for the pivot on the G10 slab and make sure it isn't deformed too.
The pivot adjustments are very minute too. A micro turn will center the blade more or less and will also add or remove some blade play so keep in mind that very minor adjustments go a long way. Turn and test several times. It's not a pivot bushing so all it does is clamp the scales to the blade as tightly as the adjustment is.
If I had one negative observation about the HEST/F 2.0 at this point of owning one (2 weeks or so), it's that the lock bar contact grind on the tang is very short. It's not even a 1/4" long. This isn't a very large contact area and the lock bar to tang contact is not the full length of the tang grind. In fact, the lock bar face is longer than the contact area on the tang:
The pivot adjustments are very minute too. A micro turn will center the blade more or less and will also add or remove some blade play so keep in mind that very minor adjustments go a long way. Turn and test several times. It's not a pivot bushing so all it does is clamp the scales to the blade as tightly as the adjustment is.
If I had one negative observation about the HEST/F 2.0 at this point of owning one (2 weeks or so), it's that the lock bar contact grind on the tang is very short. It's not even a 1/4" long. This isn't a very large contact area and the lock bar to tang contact is not the full length of the tang grind. In fact, the lock bar face is longer than the contact area on the tang:
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