DPx H.E.S.T.after first use.

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Reeek your absolutely right. The contact area it too small. My knife is holding up good. I batoned another 2x4 then posted it on YouTube. I have thick skin. :) I appreciate all the information you gave me. I will let you know how it works out. There is no damage to any parts I see. I'm think it is out of adjustment and the lock was never cut rightr
Reeek said:
Let me know how it goes - I'm willing to bet there is a much better than 50/50 chance she comes back to life if nothing was bent or damaged to the lock up components. Check the hole for the pivot on the G10 slab and make sure it isn't deformed lpivot adjustments are very minute too. A micro turn will center the blade more or less and will also add or remove some blade play so keep in mind that very minor adjustments go a long way. Turn and test several times. It's not a pivot bushing so all it does is clamp the scales to the blade as tightly as the adjustment is.

If I had one negative observation about the HEST/F 2.0 at this point of owning one (2 weeks or so), it's that the lock bar contact grind on the tang is very short. It's not even a 1/4" long. This isn't a very large contact area and the lock bar to tang contact is not the full length of the tang grind. In fact, the lock bar face is longer than the contact area on the tang:

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I have 3 Hest/F knives (2 v1.0 limited editions and 1 v2.0 production) and invariably I have found that the lockbar setup on all these knives does not offer enough positive locking pressure on the blade.... long story short, once the DLC coating wears off the stop pin (where the blade contacts the stop pin), "lock rock" will happen every time. The long term fix is easy enough, simply disassemble the knife and put more bend into the lockbar. I have done this on all 3 of my Hest/F knives and everyone of my Hest/F knives locks up like a vault now and I have not had any lock rock issues afterwards. Another possible alternative solution would be to disassemble the knife and rotate the stop pin so that a fresh patch of DLC coating would be on the contact point where the blade contacts the stop pin.

Hope this helps,
/dusty
 
as stated earlier, if the stop pin and the pivot haven't mangled the G10(and I highly doubt they have) you just need to rebend the lock bar.......if you use the roto block I doubt this will ever be a problem again....that makes it more fixed blade like which is apparently what you need from what I have learned from this thread:D
 
tricker said:
as stated earlier, if the stop pin and the pivot haven't mangled the G10(and I highly doubt they have) you just need to rebend the lock bar.......if you use the roto block I doubt this will ever be a problem again....that makes it more fixed blade like which is apparently what you need from what I have learned from this thread:D
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No, it doesnt.

As a matter of fact, on all 4 that I have had (warranty claim 1.0s and a 2.0), the rotolock stops holding the lockbar snugly quite soon. During "break in", the lock bar moves over further. After it moves so far, it is beyond where the rotoblock can contact the lockbar, so even with the rotoblock tightened all the way down, you can still disengage the lock a short bit and induce bladeplay.

The rotoblock, regardless of how it is advertised, does little more than CRKT's terrible AUTOLAWKs system. At least it isnt automatic.
 
whats the prob with lock rock anyways? lock stays engaged and any normal cutting pressure wouldnt effect the lock anyways, so why the complaints?
 
I certainly could do without the roto-block too. At least you can tighten it down so it doesn't accidently engage which was a problem when I first got my 2.0


Tripton said:
The rotoblock, regardless of how it is advertised, does little more than CRKT's terrible AUTOLAWKs system. At least it isnt automatic.
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swamp said:
Hey Guys/Gals. Well I picked up and posted about a Hest 2.0 I picked up a couple days ago. My first impressions were VERY favorable.

However, I used it today to baton soft pine 2x4's into kindling, using another soft 2x4 to baton with. The knife split wood like a champion. I made splinters out of two 2x4's...but after doing so, my blade has so much play, you can hear it when you shake it. I will continue buying axis locking folders, not that they are wiithout problems either. I have seen this myself.

I know folding knives are supposed to fold, but for 175.00 I expect the lock on a folding knife to at least stay strong for a while.

At least I have the Rotoblock.
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How do the axis lock knives hold up to the same usage? Thx
 
I had a V1.0 and it sucked. Had blade play from the get go, crappy lock up, clip broke, 3 times. And a light spine strike on the back of someone's hand at Blade Show 2011, foiled the lock, and had folks rolling on the ground this year. At least I was spared the proud tip debacle.

Seems that they aren't as hard use as some would like them to be. I got rid of it and never looked back.

There are knives out there that cost half and will do twice as much. I know, I have them.

Good luck, swamp, I hope it works out for you.

Moose
 
Reeek...Your the man. I took it apart twice. The first time I had some side to side play that wasn't there before. The second time I put it back together I focused on the pivot area more. It is much better than when I got it out of the box on day 1. I did bend the liner quite a bit, but it locks up really well. For now anyway. Absolutley NO bladeplay, and I don't need the rotolock.
 
Nikkogi said:
How do the axis lock knives hold up to the same usage? Thx
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When you buy an axis locking folder, look for one that still has some travel room for the locking bar to slide up the back of the tang. You can tell this by looking at the side of the knife to see if the axis bar has a gap infront of it between the handle scales and the locking bar. Most are fine. If it's good, then you can baton with it till you break the blade or handle. The HEST is really thick, so I tried it out. Works great, I posted a youtube video tonight of me reducing another 2x4 to kindling. :)
 
ShooterMcgavin said:
What is the bbb Reeve, and who was that comment intended for? :)
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I think it was for knifein. People can't get under my skin, because they don't define me. I do. Now for the bbb Reeve... It stands for Batoned Beyoned Belief..:)
 
clich said:
whats the prob with lock rock anyways? lock stays engaged and any normal cutting pressure wouldnt effect the lock anyways, so why the complaints?
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On the V 1.0, the rock would "lock", meaning the lockbar would actually bend towards the spine. The lockbar would also slide off of the blade with pressure on the spine...so in effect, the lock would "rock" all the way shut.

A framelock should never have vertical blade play. If it does something is wrong.
 
Not the one I had - an SR-1. It was about as flawless as any knife could possibly be regardless of who made it. The only thing was that things were tight on it but that is because of the solid construction and tolerances while being new.

RevDevil said:
Do any of the Lionsteel SR-1 knives have this problem?
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Great news, swamp :D I bent my lock bar in a bit too while I had it apart. Just like tricker mentioned.

swamp said:
Reeek...Your the man. I took it apart twice. The first time I had some side to side play that wasn't there before. The second time I put it back together I focused on the pivot area more. It is much better than when I got it out of the box on day 1. I did bend the liner quite a bit, but it locks up really well. For now anyway. Absolutley NO bladeplay, and I don't need the rotolock.
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Wow what a cluster....
Once again "don't engage the lock when battoning a folder"
I wouldn't baton my sebenza except if a life depended on it, and I would probably try making a wedge first.
Didn't the original post say dissappointing? Yet it's okay now after tightening ?? I just don't think one should post crap about a brand not lliving up then waffling. I wouldn't baton any folder for fun on 2x4's...then complain about a rattle. I doubt a rattle or off centered blad really affects the functionality of the blade, your probably not doing eye surgery.
I often use traditional slip joints and dont hear this kind of whining about then em not holding up and most are pinned.
 
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Superdave1 said:
Wow what a cluster....
Once again "don't engage the lock when battoning a folder"
If you don't act like a Richard you won't get these responses.
I wouldn't baton my sebenza except if a life depended on it, and I would probably try making a wedge first.
Didn't the original post say dissappointing? Yet it's okay now after tightening ?? I just don't think one should post crap about a brand not lliving up then waffling. I wouldn't baton any folder for fun on 2x4's...then complain about a rattle. I doubt a rattle or off centered blad really affects the functionality of the blade, your probably not doing eye surgery.
I often use traditional slip joints and sdom hear this kind of whining about then em not holding up and most are pinned.
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You would actually stop and take the time to make a wedge instead of risk ruining a pocket knife, when someones life hung in the balance? Wow.


Yes, I was dissapointed, but it wasn't better after tightening. I had to pysically alter the knife, by bending the lock bar.

My knife was never off center.

LOL :)
 
Yes,making a wedge instead of snapping a blade might be worth a minute or 2.
I carry a micro widgy or a box tool on my keychain, neither have moving parts to muck up.

I don't think you are going to be able to tap dance/ or use semantics to rationalize your way out of this misuse of a folding tool...
 
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