Fallkniven A1 Pro review

I am very surprised the guard is just pinned. Even with epoxy, I don't think it would necessarily hold up to hard use. That said, I am kind of an "overkill" guy.

Fallkniven makes awesome knives and I know they will do whatever is needed to permanently address this issue for all Pro owners. I guess I am a little surprised that they didn't do more up front to ensure that this would never be an issue. Still, it is very early in the production run of these knives and having a few "bugs" to work out should not be unexpected.
 
On_The_Edge, I agree the guard design doesn't look sturdy to me. The guard will take the occasional hit from a baton or chopping. I just dropped Fallkniven an email (time wise, they are hrs 7hrs ahead) and asked them about the guards. Sure that I'll hear from them Monday. A couple years ago, I had a question about my Sk6 and they responded quickly.
 
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"Silver Solder" here we go again ! There has been confusion about silver Solder [ tin with about 5% silver , melting about 450F ] There is Silver Braze unfortunately often called Silver Solder .Various alloys melting about 900F ] The real silver solder will not damage HT. Sometimes used in knives but many makers prefer JBWeld epoxy which has a very good reputation in knives.

Mikael , what is "cottonwool " ?

Here 'Gorilla Glue ' will expand to tightly fill spaces.
 
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mete said:
"Silver Solder" here we go again ! There has been confusion about silver Solder [ tin with about 5% silver , melting about 450F ] There is Silver Braze unfortunately often called Silver Solder .Various alloys melting about 900F ] The real silver solder will not damage HT. Sometimes used in knives but many makers prefer JBWeld epoxy which has a very good reputation in knives.

Mikael , what is "cottonwool " ?
Click to expand...

Good to have a metallurgist around, to clear up the silver solder question!
With cotton wool I simply mean fluffy cottonfiber from a Q-tip.


Regards
Mikael
 
After reading this thread, I checked my absolutely BNIB S1 Pro that I bought a couple month ago and noticed some play in the handle. It's barely noticeable, but it's there.
I don't really care, tho. I was planning to rip the horrible plastic off and either make one in Paracord or send it to a local knife maker to get some wood, stag or Ti.
Shipping back the knife is such an hassle that I won't bother about it, unless it's free of charge.
It's a bit disappointing considering the price range of the blade and for the reputation of Fäalkniven.
Anyway, the blade is a beauty, and that's what I care the most about :)
 
FullMetalJackass said:
After reading this thread, I checked my absolutely BNIB S1 Pro that I bought a couple month ago and noticed some play in the handle. It's barely noticeable, but it's there.
I don't really care, tho. I was planning to rip the horrible plastic off and either make one in Paracord or send it to a local knife maker to get some wood, stag or Ti.
Shipping back the knife is such an hassle that I won't bother about it, unless it's free of charge.
It's a bit disappointing considering the price range of the blade and for the reputation of Fäalkniven.
Anyway, the blade is a beauty, and that's what I care the most about :)
Click to expand...


I think the Pro Series are very suitable for a rehandling project and later on I might go for a custom handle.
I really enjoy my FK's, rehandled in Stag!


Regards
Mikael
 
My F1 Pro is now reassembled.
The gap in the bolster was filled with a mix of epoxy and cottonfiber.
The Thermorun handle was glued with white "Goriilla Glue".
The lanyard tube was made of nickelsilver and peened in place.

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The white spots are drops of Gorilla Glue and the yellow part is excessive epoxy&cottonfiber.

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At the end of the tang You can see expanded Gorilla Glue, showing good penetration of the glue.
The lanyard hole shows the rough marks from the ballpeen hammer.
The hole can be more finished, but the knife is back in buisness again and better than new.



Regards
Mikael
 

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Fallkniven responded to my email about concerns dealing with the guard on the Pro Series. Peter, who seems like a class act, told me not to worry about it an use the knives. He also told me that Fallkniven has a lifetime warranty, which is awesome! Guess I take his advice and beat on the A1 the next nice weekend we get here in Pa.
 
Next project ! Take that apart ,put a short piece of antler behind the bolster, then a nice piece of stabilized figured wood of your choice ! Have fun and thanks for the education !
 
Thanks Mikael for sharing, very informative

Would you recommend the cotton ball epoxy over the JB Weld?
 
Thanks all! :thumbup:



DeadboxHero said:
Thanks Mikael for sharing, very informative

Would you recommend the cotton ball epoxy over the JB Weld?
Click to expand...

I'm sure JB Weld would work too, but I have not used it.
I usually make my own mix, depending on my needs.


Regards
Mikael
 
mete said:
Next project ! Take that apart ,put a short piece of antler behind the bolster, then a nice piece of stabilized figured wood of your choice ! Have fun and thanks for the education !
Click to expand...

Good idea!


Regards
Mikael
 
DJC72 said:
Fallkniven responded to my email about concerns dealing with the guard on the Pro Series. Peter, who seems like a class act, told me not to worry about it an use the knives. He also told me that Fallkniven has a lifetime warranty, which is awesome! Guess I take his advice and beat on the A1 the next nice weekend we get here in Pa.
Click to expand...

Peter is Top Notch!


Regards
Mikael
 
Now I finally understand the cotton ! Sometimes I'm slow ! You can re-enforce a resin with fiber of various kinds.More convenient would have been glass 'flock' , that is chopped glass fibers.
 
Hi! Getting more and more interesting and great workmanships skills shown here :). Well, not upgrading my "old" A1 to the Pro is not 100% bad decision then... I can't brake what's not there... :D. Take care.
 
mete said:
Next project ! Take that apart ,put a short piece of antler behind the bolster, then a nice piece of stabilized figured wood of your choice ! Have fun and thanks for the education !
Click to expand...

Please post pics of that knife when you are done with that project. I would love to see it.

Herlock said:
Hi! Getting more and more interesting and great workmanships skills shown here :). Well, not upgrading my "old" A1 to the Pro is not 100% bad decision then... I can't brake what's not there... :D. Take care.
Click to expand...

I am sort of in the same boat. I have had a few different Fallkniven knives, but currently have only an A1. Given to me as a gift by an ex, I struggle with getting rid of it because I really like it though I don't care so much for her. Getting another first-generation A1 in place of it is silly, but replacing it with a pro is something I have given consideration to. I have also thought about simply picking up an F1 Pro as a companion to the A1.
 
Does anyone have some information or story about how and why the Pro series came to be? besides what's on their site, that is.

Does anyone know the reason for the extra thickness on all models? is it because of the steel?
 
Mikael W said:
My F1 Pro is now reassembled.
The gap in the bolster was filled with a mix of epoxy and cottonfiber.
The Thermorun handle was glued with white "Goriilla Glue".
The lanyard tube was made of nickelsilver and peened in place.

The white spots are drops of Gorilla Glue and the yellow part is excessive epoxy&cottonfiber.

At the end of the tang You can see expanded Gorilla Glue, showing good penetration of the glue.
The lanyard hole shows the rough marks from the ballpeen hammer.
The hole can be more finished, but the knife is back in buisness again and better than new.

Regards
Mikael
Click to expand...

I did a similar thing with my A1 . With use and exposure the rubber degrades a little. It becomes lighter in color and softer in texture, so I ended up with a gap where the ricasso is that I had to drown in superglue.
 
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