Fallkniven A1 Pro review

DeadboxHero said:
:D



Great advice man.:thumbup:

Im just going to sent it back to Sweden

I talked to Eric, sounds like he going to get it taken care of.

However if it happens, again

its time to step my re handle game up

because this is the best blade I've used so far.
Click to expand...


Good to know! :thumbup:



Regards
Mikael
 
Here an Update after the Hard Use Action video.

[youtube]Ngde1OlJdz0[/youtube]


I shipped the knife out to Sweden yesterday first class no tracking.

It should arrive there in 2-3 weeks.
 
Very nice post Shawn. I've tried to respond to it a few times and each time Blade Forums glitched and I forgot to come back to it. I love that they have added in the metal guards, though I wouldn't have minded if they left the grind on the F-1 as it was. I think I will get the S1 Pro and give it a go. I have an old A1 that I cut the rubber handle off of and am still in the process of making it a hidden tang with micarta and a steel hilt.
 
DeadboxHero said:
I don't like microbevels on my A1s because it reduces the performance.

The difference is huge.

I can touch them up just as well with a DC4


Here's a disclaimer,

My edge are maximumized for performance.

However if I make a mistake, my edge is toast.

Everything is a trade off

I can always microbevel for fast field repair.

However my margin for error is very small because of proper use and techniques so why not reward myself with better cutting power and efficiently?

Zero grind for the win.

The problem I see with zero grind is that people are laying these knives completely flat on the primary grind.

That's too acute for anything.

.
Click to expand...

That is mainly why I was ultimately underwhelmed with my A1 and gave up on it in favor of a Busse.

My edge just went to crap too soon, and I thought it was very inadequate for me to be careful when using a 6mm thich sharpened prybar. I figured if I wanted to cut and slice good I'd just use an Opinel or an equivalent, that pretty much forces my to use it with care due to design.

My problem with the A1 is as I said that for a knife designed for "rude" use the edge doesnt hold up at all, with continuous flattened spots when I wacked it even softly against wood or other solid surfaces. So why do I want the 300 grams and the 6 mm for?

Your post encouraged me to try out new edge configurations. Hopefully I'll manage to restore my used A1 to its former glory, when I thought it was the end-all ultimate knife.

Coincidentally, I must be one of the only few Fällkniven owners that love the plastic sheath they come with, which in my case has survived the knife itself, because my Boss Jack rides in it now.
 
mistwalker said:
Very nice post Shawn. I've tried to respond to it a few times and each time Blade Forums glitched and I forgot to come back to it. I love that they have added in the metal guards, though I wouldn't have minded if they left the grind on the F-1 as it was. I think I will get the S1 Pro and give it a go. I have an old A1 that I cut the rubber handle off of and am still in the process of making it a hidden tang with micarta and a steel hilt.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian, I think you'll appreciate the new steel.

Rehandling an A1. Awesome project bro.

I'd love to learn how from you ;)

DPC said:
That is mainly why I was ultimately underwhelmed with my A1 and gave up on it in favor of a Busse.

My edge just went to crap too soon, and I thought it was very inadequate for me to be careful when using a 6mm thich sharpened prybar. I figured if I wanted to cut and slice good I'd just use an Opinel or an equivalent, that pretty much forces my to use it with care due to design.

My problem with the A1 is as I said that for a knife designed for "rude" use the edge doesnt hold up at all, with continuous flattened spots when I wacked it even softly against wood or other solid surfaces. So why do I want the 300 grams and the 6 mm for?

Your post encouraged me to try out new edge configurations. Hopefully I'll manage to restore my used A1 to its former glory, when I thought it was the end-all ultimate knife.

Coincidentally, I must be one of the only few Fällkniven owners that love the plastic sheath they come with, which in my case has survived the knife itself, because my Boss Jack rides in it now.
Click to expand...

Yea man, you've really got to hit these knives on the stones to juice out the untapped potential.

Share some pics of your sharpening :)
 
heres some close ups of the handle play before I shipped the knife.








I was set back $22.50 for first class usps shipping, no tracking

haha hope it gets there.

Design issue? Defect? I dont know


but I'm not alone with this problem

several other users on my youtube have commented they have the same problem.

I refuse to speculate.

I will wait until the end of the month for answers.


Im glad to share my experiences.
 
Sorry didn't see you already posted the "broken" vid. Keep up the great work!! Subbin you on the tube btw.
 
DeadboxHero said:
I was set back $22.50 for first class usps shipping, no tracking

haha hope it gets there.

Design issue? Defect? I dont know


but I'm not alone with this problem

several other users on my youtube have commented they have the same problem.

I refuse to speculate.

I will wait until the end of the month for answers.


Im glad to share my experiences.
Click to expand...


Seems like it's time to have a closer look inside the handle of the Pro series ! :emot-yarr:

attachment.php

The hollow stainless tube was made smaller with a ceramic dremelbit and pressed through the rubber, to give a grip for needlenose pliers.


attachment.php


attachment.php

With the tube out of the way, the thermorun handle was easy to slide off the tang.
The pic shows the tools used for this job.


attachment.php

There's hollow parts in the guard and handle that allows for the guard to move after impact from batoning.
No epoxy !

IMO not enough to hold the guard in place and entrapped air inside the handle, is a thing to be avoided!


Regards
Mikael
 

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Last edited:
Last photo - does the riveted piece on the blade butt up against the the 'shelf' inside the handle ? I'm asking about movement of the handle on the tang.Over time is there movement around the tubing near the end of the handle ? Does the rubber shrink over time ?
Thanks for the good photos Mikael !
 
Great info guys! I have an A1pro and F1 pro and I'll eagerly watch this thread to see how Fallkniven handles this situation. I also know they are a great company but I am slightly concerned. If this is a structure issue, Would Fallkniven recall the knives?
 
mete said:
1. Last photo - does the riveted piece on the blade butt up against the the 'shelf' inside the handle ?
2. I'm asking about movement of the handle on the tang.
3. Over time is there movement around the tubing near the end of the handle ?
4. Does the rubber shrink over time ?

Thanks for the good photos Mikael !
Click to expand...

Mete,

1. No, there's a hollow space between the pinned sheatmetal and the thermorun rubber.
2. No, there was no movement of the handle on the tang.
3. I have never felt any movement around the lanyard tube on any of my rubberhandled FK's.
4. I don't think so, but it has happened on a few brand new knives and they were replaced or sold at a heavy discount.


Regards
Mikael
 
Mikael W said:
Seems like it's time to have a closer look inside the handle of the Pro series ! :emot-yarr:

attachment.php

The hollow stainless tube was made smaller with a ceramic dremelbit and pressed through the rubber, to give a grip for needlenose pliers.


attachment.php


attachment.php

With the tube out of the way, the thermorun handle was easy to slide off the tang.
The pic shows the tools used for this job.


attachment.php

There's hollow parts in the guard and handle that allows for the guard to move after impact from batoning.
No epoxy !

IMO not enough to hold the guard in place and entrapped air inside the handle, is a thing to be avoided!


Regards
Mikael
Click to expand...

dang, way to take one for the team Mikael! awesome work!

you ARE the Fallkniven Master!

how well is that guard fitted to the handle? is it super loose?
 
DeadboxHero said:
dang, way to take one for the team Mikael! awesome work!

you ARE the Fallkniven Master!

how well is that guard fitted to the handle? is it super loose?
Click to expand...

Shawn,

I often inspect a handle on the inside and do my own assembly, so it's not just for the team.
If I'm out in the Wilderness, I'm responsible for my equipment and I go a long way before I approve an item for use.

My guard isn't loose at all and the fit around the tang is tight, but under heavy impact I think it will become loose.
I will fix it before I use this knife again.


Regards
Mikael
 
Mikael W said:
Shawn,

I often inspect a handle on the inside and do my own assembly, so it's not just for the team.
If I'm out in the Wilderness, I'm responsible for my equipment and I go a long way before I approve an item for use.

My guard isn't loose at all and the fit around the tang is tight, but under heavy impact I think it will become loose.
I will fix it before I use this knife again.


Regards
Mikael
Click to expand...

Well at least its fitted good, from the picture it looks like it depends on the thermorun slots to hold it in place from pivoting up and down.

More Questions!

the pieces that are pinned to the handle from the guard, how are those attached to the guard? are they one piece CNC? welded?


Also what do you think a good solution would be for rehandling

i've been thinking about silver soldering.

Would that be the most durable solution?
 
DeadboxHero said:
Well at least its fitted good, from the picture it looks like it depends on the thermorun slots to hold it in place from pivoting up and down.

More Questions!

1. the pieces that are pinned to the handle from the guard, how are those attached to the guard?
2. are they one piece CNC? welded?


3. Also what do you think a good solution would be for rehandling

4. i've been thinking about silver soldering.

Would that be the most durable solution?
Click to expand...


1. The sheathmetal plates are held in place by the peened pin.
This prevents the guard to move backwards.
2. They are not welded, just pinned.

3. The gap in the guard needs to be filled and usually FK guards like this are filled with epoxy.
I will use epoxy and a filler like cottonwool or similiar.
For the Thermorun rubber I'm thinking of using polyurethane glue, as it is gapfilling.
A new lanyardtube needs to be made and glued with black sealant.

4. Silver soldering is tempting, but the gap is wide and I think this method will build up a lot of heat, risking the heat-treatment.
If I would use that method, I would make a completely new guard with smaller gaps.


Regards
Mikael
 
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