Frozen wood vs sarsquatch. The wood won, by a lot

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^^^^^ I, for one, would be absolutely shocked if your warranty is voided. I'll bet it wouldn't take Garth 5 minutes to straiten that sucker out. ;) It doesn't seem too bad.
 
I am with kdstrick on sending it in to be checked out .... even if just for peace of mind and confidence in the knife from here on in ... it only needs for the knife to be a bit below the intended Rc to explain what happened ... obviously the alternative is that the conditions were responsible ... my tuppence worth is that I used a Basic 9 inside the Artic circle for a week long course at some seriously low temperatures ( - 30 C ) and it did superbly ... so sending it in makes sense ...:thumbup:
 
kdstrick said:
^^^^^ I, for one, would be absolutely shocked if your warranty is voided. I'll bet it wouldn't take Garth 5 minutes to straiten that sucker out. ;) It doesn't seem too bad.
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Well, the edge was thinned, and LVC quoted Jerry basically saying if you thin the edge and that's the cause, it's not covered. Fair enough, thinning the edge is probably the cause, as the damage is directly on the edge. A thicker edge would have probably fared better, therefore voiding the warranty. Not going to deal with all that to be honest, i'll grind it out, put a splitting maul edge on it and if it chips out again, dump a bunch of m855 into it and call it a day because i'm not going to end up with a butter knife sized sarsquatch. I'm also not going to stop chopping up frozen wood, ice, digging with my knives, prying, nor am I going to reprofile with a sharpmaker. I guess that's the price we pay.
 
Jeebus:eek:...That is one snaggled blade:(:(

i heard no mention of drinking. Ice fishing without booze is just silly....
 
230grains said:
Well, the edge was thinned, and LVC quoted Jerry basically saying if you thin the edge and that's the cause, it's not covered. Fair enough, thinning the edge is probably the cause, as the damage is directly on the edge. A thicker edge would have probably fared better, therefore voiding the warranty. Not going to deal with all that to be honest, i'll grind it out, put a splitting maul edge on it and if it chips out again, dump a bunch of m855 into it and call it a day because i'm not going to end up with a butter knife sized sarsquatch. I'm also not going to stop chopping up frozen wood, ice, digging with my knives, prying, nor am I going to reprofile with a sharpmaker. I guess that's the price we pay.
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the benefit of sending it in is that if there is an issue with the metal itself, rather then the geometry (as kdstrick mentioned about his) jerry will know about it before more things like this happen. The comp sarsquatches were already thin to begin with and if jerry gets it and feels that (according to his experience with destructive testing other blades) the knife should have handled the work better, you may get the same knife (new), a shop credit, or the refurb work done for you.
 
LVC quoted Jerry who in turn gave a really extreme example of what invalidates the warranty .... I don't think that is the case here ... Amy said send it in and I would ... I rather think knowing whether the knife is at the right spec's Busse intended is worth knowing ... the way this thread has been taken by some ... sharpening and thinning your knife invalidates the warranty ... and to me that is simply not the case ... I would take up the offer and send it in as it may have a Rc in the lower 50's which would explain a lot...
 
Amy-0 said:
Well...I have to be honest about this one...kinda perplexed

I am not Jerry or Garth however I suggest this...

230grains,

Send it to us at the shop we will take a look at it and do our best to help you out:):)


I really think that everyone need's to calm down:):)

Just my 2 cents

Amy-0
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That is the best advice really. :D :thumbup:
 
PeterPHWS said:
sharpening and thinning your knife invalidates the warranty ... and to me that is simply not the case ...
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It's my understanding that jerry does destructive testing on the new designs that are outside the mold of previously tested designs and geometries. I'm positive that he's experimented with a wide variety of thin geometries and has an idea of how infi should handle in each of them. If the thinning of the edge is suspect, it's up to jerry whether it's excessive or not. I fully agree that what's been shown here is probably well within the scope of acceptable user modifications and that it's worth sending it in so he can have a look at it, especially since he said he had never seen the nmsfno chip shown in the other thread happen before. Chances are that this is a novel case as well, given that it's significantly more severe.
 
All this talk of invalidating the warranty cracks me up. I watched Jerry replace a skeleton key for a guy who hammered it into a cement block and kicked it, breaking the tip off. Regardless of the "official" policy, there is absolutely zero doubt in my mind that he would honor the warranty on 230's knife. All speculation to any other effect is pedantic nonsense and honestly downright silly.
 
230grains said:
If this was an rc 6 or something i'd send it back without worrying about sharpening voiding the warranty, but really, I don't have the best luck with the postal service, nor sarsquatches. I don't expect BC to fix it, since i "modded" it.
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I'd bet 100 to 1 that it gets refurbed, replaced or shop credited. If your willing to spend 12-20$ for shipping fedex is really good about paying out on insurance for lost or damaged packages. just take a picture of the knife and the box you going to pack it in, and mark the declared value on the ground shipping form. if it dissapears, send fedex the photo and they'll do right. (I had a case where I supplied the weight of 3 lenses where 1 of them went missing, and they paid me the full declared value in 1 weeks time, based on weights and the word of the shipper and receiver).
 
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MustardMan said:
All this talk of invalidating the warranty cracks me up. I watched Jerry replace a skeleton key for a guy who hammered it into a cement block and kicked it, breaking the tip off. Regardless of the "official" policy, there is absolutely zero doubt in my mind that he would honor the warranty on 230's knife. All speculation to any other effect is pedantic nonsense and honestly downright silly.
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PICT2229.jpg

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http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421583&highlight=key+broke

Jerry Busse said:

I certainly don't see any intention in GarySoneji's actions to have killed his little Skeleton Key so please return both pieces to the Busse Combat Shop and we will replace it with a brand spankin' new one. . .

As for the broken little SK. . . Rest In Peace my little nuclear friend. . . Soon you will be home and we will re-profile you and put you to work in our shipping room for the next 60 years!!!:thumbup:



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That was pretty classic (and classy of jerry).
 
As for how solid frozen wood can be. I was fooling around with some the other day. Throwing at it. If you have ever seen how deep a hard thrown heavy tomahawk will stick.

I was throwing at a splitter stump I have. It has a large section that is fatwood. In hot weather, it will bounce a hard thrown axe or knife right off. If you get right up on it with a maul, and swing downward like you are splitting wood, it won't even crease the fat wood section, just bounce.

I was throwing at that stump while wet and frozen. The section with the high sap/resin the knife and axes would clang off of like I had hit concrete (which I have done with both thrown knives and axes).

One of the throwing knives, a really tough (I have bounced full power throws off of concrete and just chipped the concrete a bit and had to retouch the edge) I have also rolled the edge by bouncing it off the hardened hammer poll on a rifleman hawk.

When that tip hit the frozen sap filled section, that tip bent to 90 degrees about a half an inch up. (it was not infi of course).

Some of that wood when splitting with a maul, not even frozen, we could not even crease until you hit the same spot 20+ times with an 8 pound maul. We could not even start any of our wedges at all. And that was warm and dry.

If you combine wet wood, with very cold temperatures, and find a pocket of resinous wood, you can mar axe edges.

Even in the close ups of the edge with 230grain's edge, it is not very deep damage. Not like the bigger chip on that NMSNFO.
 
Warranties are tricky... take Ruger for example. They have no stated warranty but their customer service is awesome and if anything breaks they fix it quick.

My two cents is that we should follow Amy's advice and be cool. While i am sure that Jerry will take care of the blade i would be surprized if we got a message like this from him here:

Holy Oinkin' Yowza!!! No Worries.... Send It In and i promise that i will fix it sight unseen regardless of what you did to it!!!
....Lets Drink!!

more likely he will say "send it in" and deal with it privately. Otherwise there will be precedence for when someone (not as skilled as 230) messes up their own edge with a Walmart belt sander and tries to chop down a brick wall...

i kinda like it...squatches are ugly anyway....230's has more style now!..lol
 
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Just need to blend it/sharpen it up, 400 grit edge.. sigh.

I'm not going to send in a knife to get sharpened, if it does it again against wood I will send it in I think. I'm wondering if it is defective though, or maybe i pushed the envelope with my edge.
 
230grains said:
I'm not going to send in a knife to get sharpened, if it does it again against wood I will send it in I think. I'm wondering if it is defective though, or maybe i pushed the envelope with my edge.
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you could always test it on the same wood o_0
 
I'm going to in all likelyhood, as i'll be heading to the bob house again on sunday and we still have a good wood pile left.
 
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