Hawaii Knife Life - daily use for work and play

Mikel_24 said:
Regular diving knives are known for having extreme corrosion resistance and ZERO edge holding properties... LOL. They work much better as ballast than as cutting implements. I have bent a couple trying to brain some tough fish.

Right now I carry a semi-DIY diving knife I made out of as skeletonized blank that I slapped two slabs of home-made micarta on it and bent some kydex for the seath. It is getting rust spots but I rather deal with that than with a dull edge. It needs some attention but so far it works.

Some brands make diving knives with a sacrificial zinc anode attached to the blade (or you can do it yourself, wedging a smal piece in between the handle and blade in the ricasso area (easy to do with rubber handles). This should protect the blade until the anode erodes away and then you just replace it. You can carve/grind a small piece out of a boat anode leftover. They should give it to you basically for free in any marine supply or marine mechanic shop.

If you want to go high tech, I think the only solution is to increase the budget and get a fixed blade from the H1 line of Spyderco. I just bought a Fish Hunter, should be here in one or two weeks... and I will need to bend another kydex sheath for it (the stock one is not suitable to strap it to your calf).

Mikel
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What does the zinc anode do?
 
They do the same thing on boats/ships! Zincs will corrode first before anything else! It's like magic! I'm sure there is some. scientific bs behind it! So the zincs are.the.sacrificial lamb so to speak. They corrode before steel and when they are gone you just add another!
 
Got a good deal on a Kershaw Camp 10, and it just arrived. I wanted to put it next to a BK9, but my user is in a different truck and I’m too lazy to dig out my spare.
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It feels pretty good over all. I like the high saber grind more than the low one on the SP53. The handle is thinner, but has lots of room to move forward and back.

It came packaged well, with plastic wrap around the blade with oil. Nice touch.

Should be fun playing with. I can already see it seems like one of those knives that in theory should work great for light de-limbing and bucking.

The sheath is pretty nice too. I like the carry options, and the plastic is fairly thick. We will see how the 65mn (1065 equivalent?) holds up.
 
MolokaiRider said:
Sharpened my son’s 119 up today. He has harvested many deer so far and loves it. I do too! Such a great classic design and performer.
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I must say I don't quite like the looks of this line of Buck but everyone says it is a great design and solid knife (for hunting purposes at least). Being no hunter at all, and using my blades more for general utility or wood works, I usually favour the full flat grinds (or full convex) more.

What sharpening means do you use with such a big array of knives put into use in a daily basis? Do you use paper wheels or any other power fancy equipment (Worksharp, Timken or something) or just plain old freehand on stones (be it natural, ceramic, diamond, etc)?

Mikel
 
Mikel_24 said:
I must say I don't quite like the looks of this line of Buck but everyone says it is a great design and solid knife (for hunting purposes at least). Being no hunter at all, and using my blades more for general utility or wood works, I usually favour the full flat grinds (or full convex) more.

What sharpening means do you use with such a big array of knives put into use in a daily basis? Do you use paper wheels or any other power fancy equipment (Worksharp, Timken or something) or just plain old freehand on stones (be it natural, ceramic, diamond, etc)?

Mikel
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I can understand the polarizing looks of the 119. It’s hollow grind is pretty good for game, it’s affordable, the sheath works great, and the warranty is excellent. That, added with it’s long tradition makes it a good choice for us. It also cleans up very easy, and sharpens in minutes with ease.

For my big choppers I use a bastard file to remove chips or rolls, then a King K80 water stone to finish. The K80 wears out pretty quick though. I go through a stone in about two years and then replace.

For the smaller blades, I mostly freehand DMT Diafold pocket stones. They cut fast, and get results fast. I’m not really interested in high polish edges. Knives get dull and I don’t have interest in spending lots of time making a beautiful edge that I don’t need.

If needed, I use the Sharpmaker for light touch up. For profiling smaller blades I use a KME. I also play around with a Smiths Tri-Stone. For my Kitchen knives, I use a honing rod. The Old Hickory knives respond REALLY well to a steel hone. I suppose it’s the nature of the soft steel.

I have been thinking about trying the Ken Onion Worksharp for my larger blades. I am attracted to the ease of use and fast results.

Hope all is well!
 
Bk7 second down? Looks like a smaller knife along the lines of a bk15. Sorry my posts are a bit jumbled, couldn't figure out the quote system.
 
To the person who did not even slow down or stop after running over and killing my friend this morning, I will try very hard to forgive you.

To my little man, I love and miss you already. I am so sorry I did not protect you better. You were an absolute joy in my life, and will be remembered forever as a part of my family.

I love you Dubie. Sleep well my friend.
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