I love the axis lock... but hate the Omega springs.

How many threads have we seen where the OP posts, help! I took my knife apart and can't figure out how to put it back together? Or, I can't get the blade centered now, it has play and didn't before. I'm hearing a funny noise, I lost a washer, stripped a screw, how do I get a new one?

I've seen enough of these posts that I've noticed. Couple of weeks ago someone posted they couldn't refit a washer.

I think this is the reason many companies don't encourage their users to take apart their knives. Too many people end up messing something up and then sending it back or blaming the manufacture for their mistake. Not to mention the possible liabilities.

In my mind, I like to believe that if someone is not comfortable with disassembly, they will either not do it to begin with or use a forum like this, or a YouTube video, or a website to research the task BEFORE taking the knife apart, and also realize that if someone needs to be 'forced in' that they made a booboo and restart rather than proceeding to wreck the knife. But I suppose in reality that is far from the case.

And I can understand it more with most locking mechanisms, but AXIS is an incredibly simple system that like a Sebenza is a very easy platform to work with. I generally use my iPhone to photograph locking mechanisms I do not know a lot about at first with each step as I go so I can verify how it goes. I've gotten good with taking most every locking mechanism apart, and if I can do it I think anyone can provided they are willing to spend a little time/effort ensuring they are doing it correctly.

It's certainly not fair for Benchmade to have to pay for mistakes made by idiotic judgment or outright carelessness, but at the same time I wish there were a happy medium other than outright voiding warranties and discouraging users from taking the knife apart. One of my favorite aspects of AXIS is how easy it is to upkeep, fully clean/lube, and the excellent cross-compatibility of parts (which IMO is a huuuuuggggeeee plus like how a Glock 17 and 19 keep the same style of cross-compatibility.) Like the Seb's framelock, these characteristics makes me look at AXIS as having functional advantages over most other locking mechanisms.
 
I think BKC is fully aware that mechanically inclined owners do take them apart and send it in for blade swap or tune up / re-sharpen. I strongly believe their "void warrantee" is for legal liabilities.

Work with BKC customer support, as I believe they are knife industry's best. I think I have read customer testimonial to say " as long as it is correctly assembled, BKC didn't charge nor claimed void warrantee". Even you send them in pieces, at worst case scenario, they may charge re-assemble fee and replace omega spring for you as long as you tell them you have taken apart.

Me? If omega spring brakes (I have yet encounter one) I'll ship it to BKC HQ ASAP and request repair. If you have disassembled, tell them about it. They won't say "no, we will not fix it for you" Why bother trying to fix it your self? You need loaner? lol That is why you own more than one BKC :D

MFL
 
Well I sent my beloved mini grip to bkc last week. I told the customer service rep I took one of the scales off to confirm that one did in fact break. She didn't act like it was too big of a deal but who knows, I may get charged the $20 labor/parts for disassembly. I'll keep my fingers crossed.
 
Well I sent my beloved mini grip to bkc last week. I told the customer service rep I took one of the scales off to confirm that one did in fact break. She didn't act like it was too big of a deal but who knows, I may get charged the $20 labor/parts for disassembly. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

Don't worry, Benchmade Moderator has already read this thread. I will be very surprised if BKC bother charging you. Let us know what happens. Please change the title after you get it repaired.. (No, I don't work for BKC. I wish ;) )
 
I wonder if maybe they live in a more moist or humid climate?

I've come to believe there are a few causes, some knife-related and some user-related and some usage-related. In the event of the same knife that continually breaks omega springs or continuously come loose, I think something is ever so slightly out of spec with the knife (usually the liner) and it has an amplified result in terms of omega spring longevity. When only one side continues to break a spring, I think this is generally the problem and in this case the knife needs to go to Benchmade so they can put it back in spec.

I also believe the omega springs last longer when they are greased with a lubricant that provides substantial reduction in friction (and hence wear). On some knives, that spring rubs right up against a piece of metal and contact wear will occur. A good grease can greatly reduce the amount of wear and the speed the wear occurs at.
 
I finally disassembled and de-assisted my 585 the other day, and WOW do I understand why knife companies would frown on customers disassembling their own knives!

It took a lot of care not to strip the screws which were loc-tite'd in place, and once apart it was much more difficult to put back together - lot of tiny pieces needing to be placed just so. I could easily imagine BM and other companies receiving lots of knives requesting warranty service to be put back together if they didn't discourage it. As i live within the US, I think I'll refrain from disassembling any other BM knives and will simply send them in if they ever need it.

By the way, owning Benchmade AXIS knives makes me wonder at posts in other threads regarding how impressive IKBS is (mostly on liner/frame-locks), offering almost frictionless pivot with almost no side-to-side play... But Benchmade already has that with phospho-bronze washers. If I pull back that axis bar, the blade swings open or closed as i desire, no side-to-side play. Have those impressed with IKBS simply never handled Benchmade-level production quality? OT, I know, but just something that this thread made me think about.
 
I finally disassembled and de-assisted my 585 the other day, and WOW do I understand why knife companies would frown on customers disassembling their own knives!

Emerson doesn't frown on customers disassembling their knives, it's the biggest reason I've bought several of their knives this year. Well, that and the killer designs.
 
I also believe the omega springs last longer when they are greased with a lubricant that provides substantial reduction in friction (and hence wear).
The problem with grease as I see it is the knife would have to be disassembled to insure the grease is spread on to all the pertinent parts for full coverage. Oil on the other hand can be dripped into the openings, and as we know will mange to spread itself all over the internal parts without the need to disassemble it.
These are just my thoughts on this subject, and I may be totally wrong here. :eek:
 
Some people seem to say the springs NEED to be oiled or greased to make them last longer. The thinking is that by reducing friction or wear, the metal wears less and lasts longer. Could there be a flip side? Both oil and grease can capture dirt and debris that enter the spring chamber. I kind of think about that area lubed up as being filled with mild wet stone slurry after some time of carry. I used to oil my pivots all the time, obsessively so. For an experiment, I just stopped. Years later I haven't seen the need. I only add one drop after soapy water washing done yearly. I'm not saying to never use oil. It's just for the omega spring issue, I'm not sure lubrication is the answer. I vote on burr on handle scale or metal liner. A groove (microscopic) forms and a stress crack grows from there over time. Option B is they have corrosive body juices, not saying anyone is dirty. Some people are hard on certain watches and jewelry. I'm probably going to try some form of music wire before sending it in.
 
I wonder if they will ever redesign the axis lock. Maybe something in place of the omega spring.
 
This thread made me think I had better, and did oil all of my Benchmade & Spyderco knives, joints and locks. I used Kroil Instrument Oil. ;)
I wonder if they will ever redesign the axis lock. Maybe something in place of the omega spring.
I just took a close look at my Spyderco's (Paramilitary & Paramilitary 2) and their lock system doesn't seem to have any tiny type of springs. The locking mechanism on them seems to be a sort of internal frame lock instead, meaning the one spring I can see is Beefy as it is an integral part of the frame. Time will tell.
I hope my one Benchmade with the Omega spring holds up.
 
My first really good folder above $150 was the 940. I carried that thing everywhere, and did every kind of cutting task with it for over a year. One of my favorite designs. Now I can't carry it anymore.

The omega springs keep breaking.

I don't know why, but not just my 940 has lost it's omega springs; my mini Barage, mini Griptillian and 530 Pardue have all had their springs break. I'm not exactly a habitual flipper, yet the springs have all given out.

Benchmade doesn't want to send out omega springs and I'm not really willing to send my knives over the border; I've lost expensive things that way a few times, including knives. Kind of wish I could buy a big box of springs, because as is, I won't be buying any more axis lock Benchmades, I can't afford it.

Not a hate thread, more of a sad thread; the axis lock is still one of my favorite designs.

I don't blame them. No lie, the last 3 times I've sent something to Canadaland they've all end up being slag when the mail truck tips over and catches fire. Naturally USPS tries to debate the insurance paid.

That said, I'm surprised that nobody has started selling spring copies.
 
I finally disassembled and de-assisted my 585 the other day, and WOW do I understand why knife companies would frown on customers disassembling their own knives!

It took a lot of care not to strip the screws which were loc-tite'd in place, and once apart it was much more difficult to put back together - lot of tiny pieces needing to be placed just so. I could easily imagine BM and other companies receiving lots of knives requesting warranty service to be put back together if they didn't discourage it. As i live within the US, I think I'll refrain from disassembling any other BM knives and will simply send them in if they ever need it.

By the way, owning Benchmade AXIS knives makes me wonder at posts in other threads regarding how impressive IKBS is (mostly on liner/frame-locks), offering almost frictionless pivot with almost no side-to-side play... But Benchmade already has that with phospho-bronze washers. If I pull back that axis bar, the blade swings open or closed as i desire, no side-to-side play. Have those impressed with IKBS simply never handled Benchmade-level production quality? OT, I know, but just something that this thread made me think about.

A lot of people have not used AXIS locks when they were well-lubricated such as trying them in a store. As knives can sit for a while, a brand new AXIS lock at a dealer may not be smooth if a lot of the lubricant has evaporated or migrated. Further, any folder with a PB washer takes a little while to hit optimal function. Once the mechanism is lubricated and used for a little while, it gets super smooth. Most of my AXIS knives that I have taken apart and put the grease that I use on the washers I think are as smooth and smoother than most IKBS systems I have used, and are as smooth or smoother than most CRK folders. I honestly don't think there is such thing as an improvement in smoothness over AXIS, and I do not think an IKBS would improve anything on AXIS for that matter.

The exception would be if Benchmade felt a need to make a knife with a blade that has almost zero clearance inside the handle, which an IKBS would potentially be more viable than PB washers, but I don't think that would present any functional advantage to most folders, and in some cases be a pain in the rear.
 
The problem with grease as I see it is the knife would have to be disassembled to insure the grease is spread on to all the pertinent parts for full coverage. Oil on the other hand can be dripped into the openings, and as we know will mange to spread itself all over the internal parts without the need to disassemble it.
These are just my thoughts on this subject, and I may be totally wrong here. :eek:

It is possible to get to the springs without full detail stripping on some of their folders. Removing all screws except the pivot sometimes allows the handles to rotate enough to get inside the area where the omega spring resides. A blunt syringe can be useful for application this way. The problems I find with many liquid products are generally the reasons I use a grease instead for the omega springs. A liquid may not provide optimal reduction in friction (and the primary goal is reducing friction wear), it can migrate (over time it can move off the surface it is intended to be on and that can be messy and ineffective in providing the needed lubrication), it may not do as well with constant changes in temp, humidity, and exposure to water, and I find it rarely gives long-term lubrication of a good grease. The right grease product will often function fine for years after a single application, and thus far I have not used a liquid that gives anywhere near that kind of a maintenance interval. So I am personally biased towards the right grease, especially fluoropolymer grease similar to what Chris Reeve uses on the Sebenza.




Some people seem to say the springs NEED to be oiled or greased to make them last longer. The thinking is that by reducing friction or wear, the metal wears less and lasts longer. Could there be a flip side? Both oil and grease can capture dirt and debris that enter the spring chamber. I kind of think about that area lubed up as being filled with mild wet stone slurry after some time of carry. I used to oil my pivots all the time, obsessively so. For an experiment, I just stopped. Years later I haven't seen the need. I only add one drop after soapy water washing done yearly. I'm not saying to never use oil. It's just for the omega spring issue, I'm not sure lubrication is the answer. I vote on burr on handle scale or metal liner. A groove (microscopic) forms and a stress crack grows from there over time. Option B is they have corrosive body juices, not saying anyone is dirty. Some people are hard on certain watches and jewelry. I'm probably going to try some form of music wire before sending it in.

I use fluoropolymer grease for this reason. It tends to foul up less than most liquids, and is very good at resisting being removed water or migrating over time. I use it on firearms for the same reason...and it greatly reduces fouling compared to other greases such as RIG. The chamber that houses the omega springs are somewhat limited from the rest of the knife on many BMs as the liner is on one side, and the cutout inside the handle for the omega springs on the other. Provided I do not need to strip the knife for some other reason or submerse the entire knife in a solent for a prolonged period, a single application of the fluoropolymer grease I use on the omega springs lasts literally for years. When applied to the pivot, it continues to reduce friction and operate at a consistent smoothness for months at a time, even with frequent daily usage. Even when sharpening with the EP, which makes a ton of muck that gets everywhere inside the knife, the grease is unaffected as it does not mix nor does it wash away or move. Overall, once I apply this stuff to the points of friction in an AXIS folder, that knife generally becomes as smooth as any folding knife can possibly be.

As many of the handles that Benchmade use are made of metal, as is the liner, as are the omega springs themselves, the fact is that omega springs are making friction with other hard surfaces, and this repetitive contact over an extended time results in wear. While it does not eliminate it, good lubricants reduce wear by quite a bit. I strongly feel that this helps prolong the life of the omega springs in many cases. While friction is certainly not the only cause of failure of the AXIS omega springs, it is something that happens to metal and unlike most other causes, it is something we can take action to reduce.

I can't say if it is the right product for other people, but I use it extensively on knives, firearms, vaults, and on a variety of other applications where friction that causes wear is a functional concern, and I find it tends to usually make a big difference in terms of overall performance and longevity.

So to me, I look at lubricants in the same way I do with knife steels: just like matching a steel's performance properties to the usage that particular knife will see, I find matching the lubricant to the application generally tends to yield the best outcomes.
 
I use Slip 2000 EWL. It has temp range of -100F to +1250F. Designed for SAW /LMG use. The company has tested 3000 rounds without need of any lubrication. It has surprisingly low viscosity (Although there is 30weight version available), and can aid corrosion resistance. It also clean the area of debris as well.

I have been using Miltec-1 that cleans and lubricates, before finding out it does not protect against corrosion. Now that it may not matter much for M390, but it will be beneficial to any carbon steel, and non stainless tool steel.

It may be overkill for the omega spring, but since I have it for my "other" interest, why not use it for knives as well.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top