Lets talk GEC!

[B.F.U]

I sit firmly in the camp where a knife should be able to be closed by its own spring force unhindered without the edge bouncing against the backspring.

That said, some of my knives I now try to remember to close softly rather than be stubborn.

I have filed a kick or two in my day, because you shouldn't be able to catch your finger on the tip of a closed knife.

Just because the blade can be pushed down when fully closed doesn't mean it can't have blade rap. Blade rap is not from the edge setting on the spring, it's from the blade over traveling when closing and bouncing down to hit the spring. It is also not always at the spring pin, it can often be at the belly or near the tip.

I think there are a lot of things that factor into whether a knife has blade rap: blade tallness, blade length, blade shape, blade well / spring shape, and yes spring strength. I do think it makes sense that both a very weak spring (almost or doesn't close by its own spring force) or a very strong spring (doesn't allow for over travel when closing) are less likely to have blade rap.

P.s. I've seen Bill close knives both softly and by full spring force.

 

[SteveC]

I just measured the blade clearance on my 92 and there is 1/8" space between the pin hump and the blade when closed. The clearance is about the same near the front pin.

 

[Rockon75]

The riverboat gambler single springs rap. Solution employed by the legend G2, Gary Graley-insertion of a small thin strip of cork.....no damage anymore.

 

[knifeswapper]

I just measured the blade clearance on my 92 and there is 1/8" space between the pin hump and the blade when closed. The clearance is about the same near the front pin.

Wow. I wouldn't have guessed GEC made a knife with 1/8" clearance...

 

[EngrSorenson]

I just measured the blade clearance on my 92 and there is 1/8" space between the pin hump and the blade when closed. The clearance is about the same near the front pin.

How did you measure it? Very impressive that you could do that.

1/8 of an inch near the pin hump represents a greater clearance than 1/8 on an inch at the tip, as the tip travels proportionally further during over travel.

I sharpened the ding out of my 92 last night pretty quickly and I have yet to see it return. Either that provided the microscopic amount of clearance it needed or I wonder if perhaps I sat on it or something and squeezed the blade down onto the spring.

 

[SteveC]

I made a mark on the blade with a fine tip sharpie when closed and then measured to the mark on the blade and then from inside the back spring to the top of the liner.

It 's probably a bit under 1/8"

 

[Wharn]

 

[AZCoyote]

For those with experience using the various different GEC locking mechanisms how would you compare them? I see in some reviews the lock backs tend to have some blade play in them. How do they compare to the bull and liner locks? Is one of their locks more solid than the rest?

Thanks

 

[blademan 13]

Really hit or miss on the locks. I have had #42’s, 72’s & 83’s all which range from very slight vertical play to rock solid. The one #99 I had was very solid as well.

 

[btb01]

A.G. Russel is another one that uses stop pins. He liked a full broad blade in his slipjoint designs so the stop pins came as a necessity, I think.


To contribute further to the discussion, blade rap bugs the crud out of me too and I would surely notice. Two patterns that come to mind where I've experienced it are the #43 and the #85. The #43 was a soft closer and I wouldn't have thought that it would snap closed with enough force to create the ding but it did nonetheless. My #85 is a much snappier knife and I have to be very mindful of how I close it, hence why I do not carry it much - old habits die hard and all.

It's not that I slam my knives closed with prejudice, snapping them open and closed is a perfectly natural method of opening and closing a knife with a backspring. Less than 1% of my slipjoints experience this issue when opening and closing so it becomes rather notable when it does occur and I have to be mindful of it.

Dylan, you might want to try something like this for your #85:

This #72 lock back was hitting the backspring pretty good, and it kept me from carrying it very often even though I liked the knife. I added a little piece of leather at the spot where the blade was contacting the liner, and now I can close it like normal and don’t have to think about closing it gingerly every time. It finds it’s way into my pocket a lot more often now.

 

[NewBlades16]

For those with experience using the various different GEC locking mechanisms how would you compare them? I see in some reviews the lock backs tend to have some blade play in them. How do they compare to the bull and liner locks? Is one of their locks more solid than the rest?

Thanks

Are you accustomed to modern liners and lock backs?

 

[NewBlades16]

Dylan, you might want to try something like this for your #85:

Ingenious! Did you adhere it with something or is it just wedged in tightly?

This #72 lock back was hitting the backspring pretty good, and it kept me from carrying it very often even though I liked the knife. I added a little piece of leather at the spot where the blade was contacting the liner, and now I can close it like normal and don’t have to think about closing it gingerly every time. It finds it’s way into my pocket a lot more often now.

 

[AZCoyote]

Are you accustomed to modern liners and lock backs?

Yeah, actually modern folders are what got me into collecting knives. Last few years I've been getting a lot more into traditionals. I ask because the lock backs on my modern folders probably have the tightest lock of my knives so I was surprised to hear GEC lock backs have some blade play. I imagine the GEC liner locks are pretty much like any liner locks but I've never owned a traditional with a liner lock. Have no prior experience with a bull lock knife so that one is totally new to me.

 

[NewBlades16]

Yeah, actually modern folders are what got me into collecting knives. Last few years I've been getting a lot more into traditionals. I ask because the lock backs on my modern folders probably have the tightest lock of my knives so I was surprised to hear GEC lock backs have some blade play. I imagine the GEC liner locks are pretty much like any liner locks but I've never owned a traditional with a liner lock. Have no prior experience with a bull lock knife so that one is totally new to me.

That’s what I was thinking. The moderns have tight tolerances. Not to say that GEC’s are not well built. They are! But more hands on old school production. Will last just as long as any modern but the minor blade play or minor off centering or even some light buffing swirl marks on bolsters are all part of that “old school touch.” That minor blade play is nothing to me but some would have different opinions. They are secure without a doubt in my eyes.

 

[btb01]

Ingenious! Did you adhere it with something or is it just wedged in tightly?

It’s just in there. I trimmed it to the width of the of the gap and moved it into place with a toothpick. It doesn’t seem to move around any.

 

[Stropping Young Lad]

Yeah, actually modern folders are what got me into collecting knives. Last few years I've been getting a lot more into traditionals. I ask because the lock backs on my modern folders probably have the tightest lock of my knives so I was surprised to hear GEC lock backs have some blade play. I imagine the GEC liner locks are pretty much like any liner locks but I've never owned a traditional with a liner lock. Have no prior experience with a bull lock knife so that one is totally new to me.

A GEC liner lock isn’t exactly like a modern either in that it’s still a slipjoint, just with a lock added. So you get the “action” of a slippy just like any other, but you also have a lock.

 

[dantzk8]

For those with experience using the various different GEC locking mechanisms how would you compare them? I see in some reviews the lock backs tend to have some blade play in them. How do they compare to the bull and liner locks? Is one of their locks more solid than the rest?Thanks

My experience with locks on traditional is limited. I only own two 99 (lock back) and one 35 (liner lock) all from the GEC Farm & Field. None of them has any blade play, all proved reliable.
The traditional lock back is different of the one which can be found on modern folders. Here are pics i've borrowed to jsdistin (hoping he won't hold it against me):

Dan.

 

[EngrSorenson]

Wow. Love those pics

 

[jsdistin]

My experience with locks on traditional is limited. I only own two 99 (lock back) and one 35 (liner lock) all from the GEC Farm & Field. None of them has any blade play, all proved reliable.
The traditional lock back is different of the one which can be found on modern folders. Here are pics i've borrowed to jsdistin (hoping he won't hold it against me):

Dan.

Don’t mind at all, I thought they were cool which is why I posted them. Having worked on a lock back and having to make adjustments to get rid of the blade play, I certainly forgive them any minor blade play. They’re freehanding with belt sanders as far as I know. I think the only way they could reliably not have minor blade play in some of them is to use CAD, of course I don’t know that for certain. Also if there’s no blade play at all they’re almost impossible to open. I’ve had several and only one or two had minor up down play. You can tighten up the up down play with a few hits on the spine of the tang to bend it down a little so it hits the spring sooner (not for the faint of heart though). The liner locks can have some play before they hit the lock too but it’s less noticeable due to a stronger spring. I have no experience with the bull locks but have had my eye on them for a while.

 

[NewBlades16]

Don’t mind at all, I thought they were cool which is why I posted them. Having worked on a lock back and having to make adjustments to get rid of the blade play, I certainly forgive them any minor blade play. They’re freehanding with belt sanders as far as I know. I think the only way they could reliably not have minor blade play in some of them is to use CAD, of course I don’t know that for certain. Also if there’s no blade play at all they’re almost impossible to open. I’ve had several and only one or two had minor up down play. You can tighten up the up down play with a few hits on the spine of the tang to bend it down a little so it hits the spring sooner (not for the faint of heart though). The liner locks can have some play before they hit the lock too but it’s less noticeable due to a stronger spring. I have no experience with the bull locks but have had my eye on them for a while.

You explained specifically in detail what I was trying to say in general terms. Thanks.