Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

Here are some of my current essential disassembly tools.
F2022EC9-BBB7-45F8-81A0-1849A5996453.jpeg 33B97C05-45FD-432A-A765-36BF4DD19E95.jpeg 29C10200-9AA3-4E86-8F8D-D07D1600B870.jpeg
the first thing I’ll do is open one of the blades and place it on the vise as pictured and with the blade flat hit the bolster on that side with the flat side of the ball peen hammer this should start to show the pin as it starts to pull apart the joint. If it doesn’t after a few hits I’ll close that blade and open the main blade and do the same thing on that end. At some point the pin will be visible on one side or the other. Whichever side shows the pin first is the side I knock the pin through assuming that side is the weakest and the pin is expanded the least. I either use the dremel or drill press to creat a divot where the pin is and tap it through the bolsters. The first pin I remove is the center pin though, these are always the easiest, GEC never seems to peen these very much. It also reduces the tension on the other two pins making them easier to remove. I also use the dremel to create a divot in that pin as well. If the knife has end caps like on the 86’s after those first two pins are removed I’ll twist apart the two sides of the knife at that joint so that one or both of the sides of that pin are revealed and I repeat the same process with the divot and tapping out the pin. With the center and end pin if both sides are visible I will try to eyeball which side is the smallest and tap the pins through from the small side to the larger side since it’s less expanded and easier to get through. If it’s an 86 they are the most tight pins I’ve come across except for the center pin and have ended up drilling through some of the pins with a slightly thinner drill bit to avoid bending the liners. I’ve never had to do this with any other GEC. The razor blade would be an option here as well but I still prefer to at least preserve the center pin.
 
jsdistin said:
Here are some of my current essential disassembly tools.
View attachment 1261798 View attachment 1261799 View attachment 1261800
the first thing I’ll do is open one of the blades and place it on the vise as pictured and with the blade flat hit the bolster on that side with the flat side of the ball peen hammer this should start to show the pin as it starts to pull apart the joint. If it doesn’t after a few hits I’ll close that blade and open the main blade and do the same thing on that end. At some point the pin will be visible on one side or the other. Whichever side shows the pin first is the side I knock the pin through assuming that side is the weakest and the pin is expanded the least. I either use the dremel or drill press to creat a divot where the pin is and tap it through the bolsters. The first pin I remove is the center pin though, these are always the easiest, GEC never seems to peen these very much. It also reduces the tension on the other two pins making them easier to remove. I also use the dremel to create a divot in that pin as well. If the knife has end caps like on the 86’s after those first two pins are removed I’ll twist apart the two sides of the knife at that joint so that one or both of the sides of that pin are revealed and I repeat the same process with the divot and tapping out the pin. With the center and end pin if both sides are visible I will try to eyeball which side is the smallest and tap the pins through from the small side to the larger side since it’s less expanded and easier to get through. If it’s an 86 they are the most tight pins I’ve come across except for the center pin and have ended up drilling through some of the pins with a slightly thinner drill bit to avoid bending the liners. I’ve never had to do this with any other GEC. The razor blade would be an option here as well but I still prefer to at least preserve the center pin.
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Just a thought but if you slightly take a razor blade and tap it between the liner and blade, not to cut but to create slack it will expose your pins for easier location and removal. If you prefer to keep the originals. This should limit the need to use a hammer or power tool which could potentially be catastrophic in the break down process esp. for someone less skilled.
 
Signalprick said:
Just a thought but if you slightly take a razor blade and tap it between the liner and blade, not to cut but to create slack it will expose your pins for easier location and removal. If you prefer to keep the originals. This should limit the need to use a hammer or power tool which could potentially be catastrophic in the break down process esp. for someone less skilled.
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It would definitely be worth a try.
 
Trimmed a little fat off my NF 86 while I'm waiting for material to show for a customers knife. Also a pic of using a razor to not cut but expose the bolster pin. Keep tapping though and you'll cut it. Personally I cut them and drill and ream all the .086 holes to accommodate fresh new .093 (3/32) pins. That's how Evan Nicolaides taught Jordan and Jordan passed on to me. For the most part you can then standardize all your pin stock except for your 1/16" cover pins. Almost all custom makers use .093 and it's easy to get. Before I learned this I was making .086 pins from .093. This way is much cleaner, faster and easier, at least for me. I couldn't save and reuse a pin the other way. I boogered em up too much getting them out.
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Funny, this 86 had no main blade play even after I sheared and disassembled the entire pile side of the knife. These are easily the best build I've taken apart so far. The 92's were pretty close!
20200109_174638.jpg
 
Signalprick said:
Trimmed a little fat off my NF 86 while I'm waiting for material to show for a customers knife. Also a pic of using a razor to not cut but expose the bolster pin. Keep tapping though and you'll cut it. Personally I cut them and drill and ream all the .086 holes to accommodate fresh new .093 (3/32) pins. That's how Evan Nicolaides taught Jordan and Jordan passed on to me. For the most part you can then standardize all your pin stock except for your 1/16" cover pins. Almost all custom makers use .093 and it's easy to get. Before I learned this I was making .086 pins from .093. This way is much cleaner, faster and easier, at least for me. I couldn't save and reuse a pin the other way. I boogered em up too much getting them out.
View attachment 1262294

View attachment 1262295

Funny, this 86 had no main blade play even after I sheared and disassembled the entire pile side of the knife. These are easily the best build I've taken apart so far. The 92's were pretty close!
View attachment 1262296
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natchezz said:
Are new covers usually glued on and pinned, or just pinned?
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Hi, devils advocate here again. New covers yes glued then pinned, I think it would be extremely difficult to get a good fit and lineup without gluing or expoxying first. Truth be told for the 86 with the pins in so tightly the razor blade may be the best method to disassemble (except the center pin which is still quite easily removed by tapping through). For the covers and pins I actually do the opposite, I used to drill them out to fit the pins but I had a drill bit overheat and break off in the center pin on a spring and it actually blued the metal. It was very difficult to remove and I was concerned it may have changed the hardness in that area. I was doing a lot of all steel GECs and replacing the nickel silver pins on the covers, spring, and back end with mild steel ones which had to be sized anyway. But what I do drill out are the cover pins to get them to the same size as the back spring pins like the rivets they’re replacing, I prefer the aesthetic of the same sized pins and it has no effect on fit or function.
 
TX Traditional said:
2 questions...
1. Is it a mortal sin to modify a CC knife? 86 Black Jack perhaps?
2. My favorite pattern is a good-sized clip with a coping blade (think 77 barlow). If the answer to 1 is negative, which one of you are up for the challenge?
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It devalues it for sure but I’m making one of mine a single blade as soon as I get the time. If you mean you want the coping blade instead of the pen blade I have several sitting right here and it’s easy enough. Would you want a PPP one or a northfield?
 
TX Traditional said:
2 questions...
1. Is it a mortal sin to modify a CC knife? 86 Black Jack perhaps?
2. My favorite pattern is a good-sized clip with a coping blade (think 77 barlow). If the answer to 1 is negative, which one of you are up for the challenge?
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I just happen to have a spare coping and spring laying around for an 86. ;)

**edit** J jsdistin beat me to it. I say if you want it. Go for it.
 
jsdistin said:
Hi, devils advocate here again. New covers yes glued then pinned, I think it would be extremely difficult to get a good fit and lineup without gluing or expoxying first. Truth be told for the 86 with the pins in so tightly the razor blade may be the best method to disassemble (except the center pin which is still quite easily removed by tapping through). For the covers and pins I actually do the opposite, I used to drill them out to fit the pins but I had a drill bit overheat and break off in the center pin on a spring and it actually blued the metal. It was very difficult to remove and I was concerned it may have changed the hardness in that area. I was doing a lot of all steel GECs and replacing the nickel silver pins on the covers, spring, and back end with mild steel ones which had to be sized anyway. But what I do drill out are the cover pins to get them to the same size as the back spring pins like the rivets they’re replacing, I prefer the aesthetic of the same sized pins and it has no effect on fit or function.
Click to expand...
Totally get what your saying. Slower drill speeds and plenty of cutting oil are your friend. I also use a straight flute 3/32 carbide bit so that it both drills and reams in a single pass. Perfect tool for this application. It's all about what your comfortable with. Like you said there are many ways to skin a cat here. Sharing ideas and processes makes us all better imo.
 
TX Traditional said:
2 questions...
1. Is it a mortal sin to modify a CC knife? 86 Black Jack perhaps?
2. My favorite pattern is a good-sized clip with a coping blade (think 77 barlow). If the answer to 1 is negative, which one of you are up for the challenge?
Click to expand...

Signalprick said:
I just happen to have a spare coping and spring laying around for an 86. ;)

**edit** J jsdistin beat me to it. I say if you want it. Go for it.
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It would be up to TX Traditional, I just happened to be finishing my post when he asked it. He can PM either of us or neither, maybe we can send him a blade and spring and he can do it.
 
TX Traditional said:
2 questions...
1. Is it a mortal sin to modify a CC knife? 86 Black Jack perhaps?
2. My favorite pattern is a good-sized clip with a coping blade (think 77 barlow). If the answer to 1 is negative, which one of you are up for the challenge?
Click to expand...
You could also think about turning the pen blade into a coping blade but it may not look as finished or balanced, the drop might be too abrupt after the nail nick
 
jsdistin said:
It would be up to TX Traditional, I just happened to be finishing my post when he asked it. He can PM either of us or neither, maybe we can send him a blade and spring and he can do it.
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I just reread what I posted and it came off wrong. The last line was meant for TX. :)
 
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TX Traditional said:
Ha! No, if I attempted this we’d wind up with 1095 scrap.
A man must know his limitations.

Alright J jsdistin it’s all yours. I’ll take the Northfield coping blade.
Looking forward to this one.
Thanks guys!

J jsdistin your inbox is full.
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I didn’t think it would’ve ever filled up, it’s empty now.
Signalprick said:
Totally get what your saying. Slower drill speeds and plenty of cutting oil are your friend. I also use a straight flute 3/32 carbide bit so that it both drills and reams in a single pass. Perfect tool for this application. It's all about what your comfortable with. Like you said there are many ways to skin a cat here. Sharing ideas and processes makes us all better imo.
Click to expand...
For sure, I think all the different ways are useful in different circumstances as well, for instance the 86’s I might just cut the bolster pins and back pins , as not as many have been coming out in usable condition.
 
OK two projects I want to do and put in writing so that it will keep me going if it gets difficult 1. 86 Barlow red or blue maybe green sawcut covers with me jigging and dying the covers from scratch with a liner lock added. 2. Copy cat black jack in white or red smooth bone. Making the shield from nickel silver bar stock and pinning it, if the covers are red I’d dye them as well. I’d stat with either a tidiote or northfield and it’ll be single blade.
 
jsdistin said:
It devalues it for sure but I’m making one of mine a single blade as soon as I get the time. If you mean you want the coping blade instead of the pen blade I have several sitting right here and it’s easy enough. Would you want a PPP one or a northfield?
Click to expand...

...not always...I’ve been offered more for this knife than I paid for it AND that is higher than the going price of “stock” 2016 peach seed TCs:upload_2020-1-10_9-33-12.jpeg
 
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