Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

...not always...I’ve been offered more for this knife than I paid for it AND that is higher than the going price of “stock” 2016 peach seed TCs:View attachment 1262600
You’re right, I suppose I should have been more specific, it reduces the audience of people that might want to purchase it, making it more difficult to sell and get your money back out of. Mods and recovers in my experience have the most worth and value to the person who wanted it to be that way in the first place, and less value to most others as it is no longer “mint” for lack of a better word, the one you have there is certainly a nice one and I’m sure it holds significant value, even more than the original, but don’t forget there is also a cap lifter that was sacrificed in creating it too though, as well as the covers and the labor. I was being far too general in answering a question that has so many various subtleties.
Edit: I think all I’m saying is that one should not do mods or request mods for any other reason than to make a knife more to their liking, not to make money from, and if that is something that someone wants to do, modding is probably not a good strategy.
 
My 86 is coming together perfect! Thickness is exact to the BF 86. Perfectly centered and snappy and I haven't even beat it together yet! Yes the shield is pinned. ;) I refined my method for install and I'm super pleased with how clean I'm able to get them. Thanks for looking!

20200110_153811.jpg

20200110_170942.jpg

20200110_170959.jpg

20200110_171021.jpg
 
You’re right, I suppose I should have been more specific, it reduces the audience of people that might want to purchase it, making it more difficult to sell and get your money back out of. Mods and recovers in my experience have the most worth and value to the person who wanted it to be that way in the first place, and less value to most others as it is no longer “mint” for lack of a better word, the one you have there is certainly a nice one and I’m sure it holds significant value, even more than the original, but don’t forget there is also a cap lifter that was sacrificed in creating it too though, as well as the covers and the labor. I was being far too general in answering a question that has so many various subtleties.
Edit: I think all I’m saying is that one should not do mods or request mods for any other reason than to make a knife more to their liking, not to make money from, and if that is something that someone wants to do, modding is probably not a good strategy.


I do agree that there may be a limits on the audience of future buyers (if you are looking to sell) but it depends on the desirability of the original knife, the general acceptability of the mods completed (add a nail file to a TC and folks would be horrified, add a bottle opener and you created a masterpiece) as well as the quality of the work. That said, how many of you are looking at your mods as a way to make money? I'm seeing enjoyment and pride here...things tough to put a monetary value on. I like seeing what you are all doing and mods to a knife that has been produced in the hundreds is no foul in my book....and in some instances, the modified knife will be worth more than a stock original.
 
Hello, new to this thread, just had my love of slipjoints rekindled a while back. Was gifted a Rough Ryder Swayback from a forum member which is what got the ball rolling.
There is some fantastic work in this thread!
I’m no where near complete disassembly and re-assembly like you folks here.
I did however decide to filework the spine, and crown it. Then decided to contour the covers, knock of the sharp edges, polish the bolsters, and try my hand at a MOP inlay.
Hope I am welcome around here (however sporadic it may be.)
View attachment 1261200
View attachment 1261201
View attachment 1261198
View attachment 1261199
(For those of you who are OCD and a perfectionist like myself, yes, unfortunately the middle MOP inlay is off by a hair. Really bugs me. Lol. Wont make me stop carrying tho. First time doing inlays, so overall I learned something and I’m pretty happy with the result.)

*I have also posted these pictures in the RR and related thread. Apologies to those who have to see them twice.
Wow, I'd say you certainly improved that one :thumbsup:
Love it!


Just finished up. Case CV Sowbelly dressed in green canvas micarta. Pinned shield. Contoured the stock flat bolsters. Backspring is flushed in the open and closed position. She came out hot and perfect if I do say so myself! :cool: Video also posted to my IG page.
View attachment 1261728

View attachment 1261719

View attachment 1261720

View attachment 1261722

View attachment 1261723

View attachment 1261724

View attachment 1261725

View attachment 1261726
Very nice !
Looks factory all the way :thumbsup:
 
Wow, I'd say you certainly improved that one :thumbsup:
Love it!



Very nice !
Looks factory all the way :thumbsup:

Thank you for those kind words. Its definitely one of my favorite carries right now. I’m in the process of making a slip sheath for it.
 
Thanks, I did the jigging with a dremel cut-off wheel. I wanted to be sure it would last so I made the cuts pretty deep.
It looks rugged. Have you ever tried doing any brut de forge (on the blade or bolsters)? I think it would look good with sawcut like that.
 
It looks rugged. Have you ever tried doing any brut de forge (on the blade or bolsters)? I think it would look good with sawcut like that.
That’s the hammered look right? When I do a knife from scratch again I probably would on the blade, like north woods does with the slag but with the saber grind higher up.
 
Hello, new to this thread, just had my love of slipjoints rekindled a while back. Was gifted a Rough Ryder Swayback from a forum member which is what got the ball rolling.
There is some fantastic work in this thread!
I’m no where near complete disassembly and re-assembly like you folks here.
I did however decide to filework the spine, and crown it. Then decided to contour the covers, knock of the sharp edges, polish the bolsters, and try my hand at a MOP inlay.
Hope I am welcome around here (however sporadic it may be.)
View attachment 1261200
View attachment 1261201
View attachment 1261198
View attachment 1261199
(For those of you who are OCD and a perfectionist like myself, yes, unfortunately the middle MOP inlay is off by a hair. Really bugs me. Lol. Wont make me stop carrying tho. First time doing inlays, so overall I learned something and I’m pretty happy with the result.)

*I have also posted these pictures in the RR and related thread. Apologies to those who have to see them twice.
Inlay is not off line if you consider it follows the line of the handle.

Zieg
 
Fresh off the bench! If you own an 86 but think it's too fat, you won't regret commissioning the mod of your choice to slim it down for you. This one is had had the coping deleted, bare end mod. Recovered in brown canvas with pinned shield. Took a couple.shots next to the BF 86 for comparison. Thanks for checking it out!
**Sorry, crappy lighting. Better pics tomorrow.**
20200113_173236.jpg

20200113_173140.jpg

20200113_173154.jpg

20200113_173209.jpg

20200113_173259.jpg

20200113_173410.jpg

20200113_173438.jpg
 
138219_138248.jpg

I picked up a couple of these, some 1 x 30 belts (60, 120), and some paper (220, 400, 600) today. I'm going to swing by harbor freight and pick up a belt sander and practice making a lambsfoot profile before taking on a GEC 93. It will be a modest first attempt to do any serious modification. I have delusions of grandeur. I won't be disassembling or fabricating anything, but watching you guys work has given me the itch to try and make something that's more within my reach of skill, time, and money. I'll post once I get things going to show off my failure or success.
 
Back
Top