Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

[Halfneck]

r8shell - outstanding job on the wharnie peanut.

 

[Kirkwood]

Love seeing all the different mods!

Here's my first project. If for no other reason than to see what it would look like. All done with hand files, sand paper, scotch-brite and apple cider vinegar.

 

[glennbad]

That's a great looking patina, nice and even throughout!

 

[Modoc ED]

That's a nice job. Very even patina. Looking down into the well of the knife, the thong tube is visible whereas it is not on a stock knife. How much shorter is the blade now that you have modified it - 1/2" maybe?

 

[Kirkwood]

Many thanks for the comments.

Looking down into the well of the knife, the thong tube is visible whereas it is not on a stock knife. How much shorter is the blade now that you have modified it - 1/2" maybe?

I knew there was something I forgot to do. I meant to take comparison pics. Blade lost 3/16" to be precise. A little shorter than where I thought it would end up going in, but still plenty long. I wanted to stop at -1/8", but just didn't like how it was looking when I got there.

Kris

 

[Modoc ED]

Thanks for the reply. Job well done!!!:thumbup:

 

[Markesharp]

That looks great Kirkwood! Minimal blade loss, good trade-off for the results you achieved. :thumbup:

I might have to do that with my Maroon linen Micarta. I might even go as far as to blend the tip of the back of the handle a bit just to take the point off.

 

[r8shell]

Many thanks for the comments.


I knew there was something I forgot to do. I meant to take comparison pics. Blade lost 3/16" to be precise. A little shorter than where I thought it would end up going in, but still plenty long. I wanted to stop at -1/8", but just didn't like how it was looking when I got there.

Kris

I get it now! When you posted the first pictures, I didn't realize it wasn't originally a spear blade. Very nice. :thumbup:

 

[Living_Simply]

That bullnose is phenominal! Even the swedge (not quite a swedge, but rear of the blade) is proportional and even. Looks very factory.

 

[Kirkwood]

Many thanks again. I'm happy with how it turned out, and even found some garden work for it right away where the spear tip came in handy.

I get it now! When you posted the first pictures, I didn't realize it wasn't originally a spear blade. Very nice. :thumbup:

D'oh! Another thing I forgot to do. I meant to take a before picture!

 

[glennbad]

Here's one I just finished. A Schrade 175 pattern done up with amber carved stag bone...

 

[philllll]

WOW Glenn, that bone is amazing!!

 

[esnyx]

Here is a pic of my last couple of modded boy's knives, the top one is ironwood burl and the bottom one is amboyna burl:

 

[Markesharp]

Nice work Evan! :thumbup:

 

[yatsunil]

Sheepsfoot and cap lifter - now that is interesting. :thumbup:
Linus

 

[esnyx]

Sheepsfoot and cap lifter - now that is interesting. :thumbup:
Linus

Oh, so you want to see some sheepfoot/caplifters, huh?

 

[yatsunil]

Yes Evan. Philll has already made me drool with those. Once the dust settles from the current Charlow frenzy, I might need a word with you about one of these beauties.
Linus

 

[glennbad]

Nice group of mods there, Evan! Ironwood Burl, yes...

 

[Cory Hess]

I've just decided that a sheepsfoot/caplifter barlow is something I NEED.

 

[black mamba]

Staying with my prevalent knife theme of both bellied and straight-edged blades, I've committed what some will no doubt consider heresy. I decided to modify the darling of so many, the GEC #73 Scout trapper. As has been previously discussed, when modding blades it is critical to note the position of the nick or pull to make sure you have enough edge beyond the regrind, while completely preserving the nick. (I have NO way of regrinding nicks!) Fortunately, the long pull version of the Scout (my favorite) leaves more room beyond the pull to grind down to a proper sheepfoot.

The whole process took about an hour and a half. I first taped the blade to prevent closing, then marked the spey with a marker, and did the major removal with an 80 grit belt on my 1x30 sander (dunking the blade in water after every pass to prevent overheating and messing up the heat treat). After achieving the shape I wanted, I progressed through 200, 320 and 400 grit wet/dry paper, followed by the buffer with white rouge. The most difficult part of the process for me is continuing the existing swedges through the curve to keep the flow of the blade.

Lastly I used 600 grit diamond hones to clean up the bevels and put a good edge on. I am VERY happy with the results. Hope you like!