Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

boy&hisdogs said:
Yes, in fact that's what many people do. Be sure to clean the blade good, at least a good scrub with dish soap if not a stronger chemical like mineral spirits or carb cleaner or something along those lines. If there is anything on the blade, including finger oils, the patina won't take as well in those spots.

Time depends on how strong of a color you want, what you're putting it in and what type of steel you have.

For example, a knife I just finished is made of 1075 and all I did with it was cut up a few inches of hot dog into training treats for my dog and it started to turn color just from that. I think raw beef is probably the bluest patina. The cooked hot dog I cut up turned it a mix of light purple and gold.

If you don't like it, you can always get it off with steel wool, scotchbrite, polish, or some other mild abrasive along those lines. It's just a thin layer that forms on top of the steel. It's like rust but not destructive. It also helps protect against actual rust by occupying the space where the rust would go.
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Awesome, I will put this in my book of notes that I am starting so when I need to refer back to stuff like this I have it. Thanks again for the tips.
 
I remember many years back, before I knew anything about patina, I was trout fishing with a co-worker. We caught a couple decent keepers, and we used his new sharpfinger to clean the fish. Afterwards, we were aghast with the rainbow discoloration on the blade, and set to scrubbing it shiny again. Oh well...LOL
 
Just finished this one with ebony covers:
SAK_05_small_zpsvt7noktn.jpg


It's the first time I worked with ebony.
At first I was afraid that it is going to be much more difficult to work with because it is so hard.
But that stuff is pretty awesome, it's more like a hard plastic than wood.
Especially carving out the slots for the tweezers is easier because you don't have to worry about the grain of the wood so much.
SAK_06_small_zpshfhuhag7.jpg


It started as an alox SAK.
At first I wanted to use the aluminium scales of a normal SAK, but it turns out those have a different shape.
So I had to grind down the thick alox slabs instead.
SAK_07_small_zpscvc3hvkp.jpg


Pointy tweezers are more practical than a toothpick.
SAK_08_small_zpsenpc3ogr.jpg
 
Sturzi, what a beautiful job, very clean and sleek.

Eric
 
Thinking of turning this Case pruner into a dedicated carver. Don't do much prun'n, but I do quite a bit of carv'n. Sort of leaning toward the shorter length. That's a lot of blade being chopped though. What do you think?
RenderedContent-4185A063-6A9F-4D51-86EB-BEEC635A0C30.JPG
 
Cut at that curve you drew furthest from the tang, I think you'd have a blade that would be great for stock removal. And short enough to be easy on your wrist.
Would there still be a nail nick?

Michael
 
sturzi said:
Just finished this one with ebony covers:
SAK_05_small_zpsvt7noktn.jpg


It's the first time I worked with ebony.
At first I was afraid that it is going to be much more difficult to work with because it is so hard.
But that stuff is pretty awesome, it's more like a hard plastic than wood.
Especially carving out the slots for the tweezers is easier because you don't have to worry about the grain of the wood so much.
SAK_06_small_zpshfhuhag7.jpg


It started as an alox SAK.
At first I wanted to use the aluminium scales of a normal SAK, but it turns out those have a different shape.
So I had to grind down the thick alox slabs instead.
SAK_07_small_zpscvc3hvkp.jpg


Pointy tweezers are more practical than a toothpick.
SAK_08_small_zpsenpc3ogr.jpg
Click to expand...

I'm impressed. That's a terrific looking job right there.
 
3-1-1 said:
Thinking of turning this Case pruner into a dedicated carver. Don't do much prun'n, but I do quite a bit of carv'n. Sort of leaning toward the shorter length. That's a lot of blade being chopped though. What do you think?
View attachment 789853
Click to expand...

How stout is the pull on that knife? If it pulls hard, then it may be tough opening it once you remove all that blade. Looks like a cool mod, though!
 
Yeah the pull is pretty stout now, but I only had to flatten the kick slightly, so it can still be pinched open. Not going to break any nails, so no issue really. This will definitely work. I am considering both an all-the-way-through (Scagel style) or double sided nail nick, plus a slight softening of the spring to help though.
Hey WR Case, new pattern variation for you, the Swayback Chip Carver:
IMG_6359.JPG
 
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Added a small easy open notch to my GEC #13 as I couldn't pinch it open after regrinding the kick.
Drew it up in CAD and printed it out to see how it would feel.
AC3feZF.jpg

So I did the mod today, used the opportunity to also resatin the blade and overhaul the knife as a whole.
sR1pT32.jpg

cpoMS5n.jpg
 
Here is a pic of my planned modification... i already started grinding it on my belt grinder. This 10-95 is surprisingly difficult to grind. (My belt is old though) I am dipping the blade in ice water and never letting it get beyond warm to the touch. I probably should have used a dremel with a cut-off wheel, but this will be finished tonight. After the mod is done I will force a light patina with a vinegar soak. Dont judge me. I like the gray look of an old blade and I am too impatient to wait for it!!!

View attachment 800664
 
Done! Friggen perfect! Its like a two blade stockman now! Im in love. The index finger sits in the new gap where the removed material from the spear and the grip is more comfy now. I tried to continue the swedge as best I can. I finished it off with my 9 micron mirror polished convex edge. Bad bow is like a damn razor blade! Here are the glamour shots! Vinegar patina coming next.

View attachment 800722 View attachment 800723 View attachment 800724 View attachment 800725 View attachment 800726 View attachment 800727 View attachment 800728
 
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