Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

[traumkommode]

Did this one not come with a bail? The profile looks good, but I'm not seeing the "ancient" unless it is the way you finished the blade. I think it does need something to distinguish the finish--whether it is ferric chloride (which I have no idea about), or "distressing" it in some other way. Personally, I like the finish you put on the one you did for me.

I'll try and get a better picture later. I did a worn down full length swedge that's uneven side to side, even rounded over a little on the front. Scratchy finish. But you're right, it's too shiny. I'll look for some FeCl3 and maybe do some deeper scratching, too.

 

[traumkommode]

Did this one not come with a bail? The profile looks good, but I'm not seeing the "ancient" unless it is the way you finished the blade. I think it does need something to distinguish the finish--whether it is ferric chloride (which I have no idea about), or "distressing" it in some other way. Personally, I like the finish you put on the one you did for me.

Yes, this one was made without a bail. There were a handful in Micarta and the "jigged" (worm groove, cough cough) bone that came without a bail hole. Second no bailer I've had

So... 440C doesn't really patina dark when you etch it (duh), just sort of a deep grey matte. It's been hard to get the etched effect to show up in a photo. It looks really cool, like an old tool that got left in the damp garage or shed for a couple decades, in person.

 

[JTB_5]

Yes, this one was made without a bail. There were a handful in Micarta and the "jigged" (worm groove, cough cough) bone that came without a bail hole. Second no bailer I've had

So... 440C doesn't really patina dark when you etch it (duh), just sort of a deep grey matte. It's been hard to get the etched effect to show up in a photo. It looks really cool, like an old tool that got left in the damp garage or shed for a couple decades, in person.

Yeah! I like this version much better than the first. Bet it looks even better in person. Nice work Andrew!

 

[traumkommode]

Thanks, bud! I dig it.

 

[VashHash]

Bent the sheep's foot blade over a bit so it doesn't rub the main.

Also filed the kick down on it so it sits a little lower.

 

[JoeGoblyn]

Adding easy opens to these two made them a couple of my favorites. I can pinch them open and save my thumbnail.

 

[VashHash]

So I already fixed the clip point blade but didn't do before and after. Now I'll show the skinner blade

As you can see it's not where it needs to be in the open position. This shows it a little better with the clip point as a reference.

So out comes the masking tape and the file.

Checking the cant

Getting close

And finally.

I'm sure Case could have adjusted this for me but it didn't take that long to file down the spring. It's definitely my knife now.

 

[traumkommode]

Here's one finished today for @Ogri

 

[r8shell]

This Western States (1911-1951) penknife had deteriorating celluloid, so I removed the covers and replaced with laminated piano key veneers. I also turned the blade with a broken tip into a coping blade.

 

[Fodderwing]

This Western States (1911-1951) penknife had deteriorating celluloid, so I removed the covers and replaced with laminated piano key veneers. I also turned the blade with a broken tip into a coping blade.

Outstanding job. What a beautiful new beginning for a dignified old knife.

 

[JohnDF]

This Western States (1911-1951) penknife had deteriorating celluloid, so I removed the covers and replaced with laminated piano key veneers. I also turned the blade with a broken tip into a coping blade.

Nice work!!!

 

[tiguy7]

I moved the skeletonized handles from a Tinker to a Waiter with saw.

 

[jsdistin]

Barlow frame, with blade and cap lifter from 2013 radio knife, with ivory scales scavenged from a couple very old dinner knives, and the back springs from a different #15 because the originals got bent at some point, the top side was filed down asymmetrically (to keep the springs intact and functioning properly) because the ivory didn’t quite cover the whole frame, then polished the handle. The crack was in the original knife that the ivory was taken from and stabilized with crazy glue, though it replaced a cover that I actually did crack while pinning it to the scale. I found and ordered a few more similar dinner knives to maybe do my new ancient or a couple 14’s from the new run.

 

[r8shell]

Barlow frame, with blade and cap lifter from 2013 radio knife, with ivory scales scavenged from a couple very old dinner knives, and the back springs from a different #15 because the originals got bent at some point, the top side was filed down asymmetrically (to keep the springs intact and functioning properly) because the ivory didn’t quite cover the whole frame, then polished the handle. The crack was in the original knife that the ivory was taken from and stabilized with crazy glue, though it replaced a cover that I actually did crack while pinning it to the scale. I found and ordered a few more similar dinner knives to maybe do my new ancient or a couple 14’s from the new run.
View attachment 994395 View attachment 994396

Nice! That would look good on a #14, and you can use a smaller piece to do it.

I haven't gotten to the point where I can easily take apart and re-pin a knife, but I'm having fun with epoxy. I mixed in brown pigment and patched this old Miller Bros. I also lowered the main blade, so the tip doesn't shred pockets.

It's darker than I wanted, but it'll do.

 

[traumkommode]

Nice! That would look good on a #14, and you can use a smaller piece to do it.

I haven't gotten to the point where I can easily take apart and re-pin a knife, but I'm having fun with epoxy. I mixed in brown pigment and patched this old Miller Bros. I also lowered the main blade, so the tip doesn't shred pockets.

It's darker than I wanted, but it'll do.

I think what you did looks cool. You did a really good job of making it look natural and well fitted. What kind of epoxy do you use?

 

[r8shell]

I think what you did looks cool. You did a really good job of making it look natural and well fitted. What kind of epoxy do you use?

Thanks! It's called Epoxy 330. It's sold for use in jewelry: "water clear bonding" and supposedly can be polished. It's a little more expensive than the hardware store stuff, but is great for this kind of job, as well as gluing shields. I saved all the dust from filing on those ivory keys, and am wondering if I can mix it into the epoxy to do inlay or repairs.

 

[r8shell]

Before:

After:

 

[glennbad]

That's how I started out Rachel. Looks good!

 

[r8shell]

That's how I started out Rachel. Looks good!

Thank you, Glenn!
I'm going to have to get a drill press one of these days, and practice taking knives apart and reassembling them.

 

[r8shell]

I hope I'm not boring anybody with my re-covering projects, but here's one more. A Federal Knife Co. Syracuse, NY with shrinking covers.

The springs are very strong and snappy, and with the low sitting nail nick, I couldn't open the pen blade. So, after popping off the covers, I put in a nail relief and ground off the tabs on the brass.

Epoxied on rosewood covers, and filed and sanded and waxed.

Success!