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Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk
- Thread starter CitizenQ
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2010
- Messages
- 4
My 15 year old son decided that he wanted to try his hand at modding a hawk and here's what he made. He watched me make and etch one earlier and that's all of the guidance he needed. All that's left to do is sharpen the edge.
Not bad for paper, scissors, spray paint, etching solution and some elbow grease!
Nice work. What type/brand etching solution are you using?
Thanks. These are fun projects.
Radio Shack PCB Etchant Solution is what we used. It comes in a 16 oz. bottle and we've used the same bottle on 2 projects so far.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
So, after reading all this fine information on the hawk mods, I decided to do a couple of my own. I ordered a spike hawk and and trail hawk from the interweb. I then promptly forgot that I'd done so, and placed an identical order about two days later (Jameson is a powerful substance 
) So.... I have two of each. Christmas present time!! I have a buddy that used to be a Ranger who will be the recipient of my first endeavor. I present to you, the Ranger Spike :thumbup:
I started by stripping off the old paint with some flooring adhesive remover I had lying around. Let me tell you, this stuff is no joke and worked like a charm. I cleaned it all off, and then used a wire wheel on the ol bench grinder to brighten it up a bit.
I repeated these steps for the others, as well as an old Rifleman hawk I've had since I was little. You'll note I cut the head off that one. It's going to be a beater, as the old forging process appeared to be more crude and the pitting is extremely deep.
Next, I got online and found a graphic of a Ranger Tab to be etched into the blade. I cut out the solid lines for the border and letters (not easy) and glued them to the hawk head (down right excrutiating
). I then spray painted the area to be etched with black krylon. I gave it 3ish coats and let it dry over night. The following day, I used an exacto knife and removed the stencils.
I bought some etching solution at Radio Shack (used there for etching circuit boards, thanks to who ever suggested trying them). I found a flower vase in the kitchen cabinet (thanks honey
) that was perfect for etching. I set the head in the solution, and the vase in a dish of hot water (I read that it works better warm). I used an old tooth brush to clean off the etch about every hour for the first three hours. I decided it was removing material slowly, so I let it soak over night. Total time in solution was about 6-7 hours. Next morning I took it out and cleaned it off really well with soap and water. You can see a couple places where the paint flaked off during cleaning.
I then repeated the paint stripping process and wire wheel cleaning.
Originally, I was going to patina this hawk, but I have decided now that I'm going to DuraCoat it. The etch was deep enough that it will stand out nicely with a coat of the DC and I'm not sure that I trust cold blue or brown to provide the level of rust resistance I'd like.
That being said, anyone have any input as to how rust resistant the cold blue or brown is? How about a forced patina with vinegar? Any other chemical?
Stay tuned for handles, finished products, and other
Solid.
) So.... I have two of each. Christmas present time!! I have a buddy that used to be a Ranger who will be the recipient of my first endeavor. I present to you, the Ranger Spike :thumbup:
I started by stripping off the old paint with some flooring adhesive remover I had lying around. Let me tell you, this stuff is no joke and worked like a charm. I cleaned it all off, and then used a wire wheel on the ol bench grinder to brighten it up a bit.
I repeated these steps for the others, as well as an old Rifleman hawk I've had since I was little. You'll note I cut the head off that one. It's going to be a beater, as the old forging process appeared to be more crude and the pitting is extremely deep.
Next, I got online and found a graphic of a Ranger Tab to be etched into the blade. I cut out the solid lines for the border and letters (not easy) and glued them to the hawk head (down right excrutiating
). I then spray painted the area to be etched with black krylon. I gave it 3ish coats and let it dry over night. The following day, I used an exacto knife and removed the stencils.
I bought some etching solution at Radio Shack (used there for etching circuit boards, thanks to who ever suggested trying them). I found a flower vase in the kitchen cabinet (thanks honey
) that was perfect for etching. I set the head in the solution, and the vase in a dish of hot water (I read that it works better warm). I used an old tooth brush to clean off the etch about every hour for the first three hours. I decided it was removing material slowly, so I let it soak over night. Total time in solution was about 6-7 hours. Next morning I took it out and cleaned it off really well with soap and water. You can see a couple places where the paint flaked off during cleaning.
I then repeated the paint stripping process and wire wheel cleaning.
Originally, I was going to patina this hawk, but I have decided now that I'm going to DuraCoat it. The etch was deep enough that it will stand out nicely with a coat of the DC and I'm not sure that I trust cold blue or brown to provide the level of rust resistance I'd like.
That being said, anyone have any input as to how rust resistant the cold blue or brown is? How about a forced patina with vinegar? Any other chemical?
Stay tuned for handles, finished products, and other
Solid.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
That reminds me, I've been trying to really play it safe during this project. I have been grinding on these hawks and using harsh chemicals. Cant take any chances. When the gods rolled up my character sheet, I only got one set of eyes, lungs and fingers. Gotta protect 'em. Therefore, I give you SolidCopper, Captain Safety edition :
Be safe, brothers.
Solid
:
Be safe, brothers.
Solid
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
I liked Brother Q's idea about the charred handle, so I'm giving it a whirl myself. I used 80 grit sandpaper to take off the handle's existing finish, then smoothed it a bit with 100 grit. I used a standard propane torch and charred up a piece of hickory. The astute observer may notice another hawk head that will be featured in a later post
After charring, I took a clean cotton cloth and wiped off the waste material made ash by the flame. I sanded lightly with 220 grit sandpaper. I then used a cloth to apply a coat of Minwax Spar Varnish cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. It goes on thin and get into the crevasses really well. I applies a couple coats to get it sealed well. I'll be switching to full strength varnish for the next coat.
I plan on adding some cord wrapping to the handles for over strike protection and for grip traction.
Also, I'm going to do a traditional/antique appearance hawk with a trail hawk head. One of the hawks I received had a handle with some really nice curl to the grain. I decided that would be my traditional handle. I stripped the existing finish off and sanded out some of the scuffs and scrapes from the factory head mounting. Then I applied some stain (English Chestnut from Minwax, I think). You can see the curl a bit better in the second picture. I have them sitting in front of a space heater to assist in the drying because it's cold in my basement.
I'm going to put another coat or two of stain on that handle so it'll get as dark as possible. The hickory seems to be only moderately porous as far as wood goes.
More to follow brothers. Happy holidays, and happy modding
Solid
After charring, I took a clean cotton cloth and wiped off the waste material made ash by the flame. I sanded lightly with 220 grit sandpaper. I then used a cloth to apply a coat of Minwax Spar Varnish cut 50/50 with mineral spirits. It goes on thin and get into the crevasses really well. I applies a couple coats to get it sealed well. I'll be switching to full strength varnish for the next coat.
I plan on adding some cord wrapping to the handles for over strike protection and for grip traction.
Also, I'm going to do a traditional/antique appearance hawk with a trail hawk head. One of the hawks I received had a handle with some really nice curl to the grain. I decided that would be my traditional handle. I stripped the existing finish off and sanded out some of the scuffs and scrapes from the factory head mounting. Then I applied some stain (English Chestnut from Minwax, I think). You can see the curl a bit better in the second picture. I have them sitting in front of a space heater to assist in the drying because it's cold in my basement.
I'm going to put another coat or two of stain on that handle so it'll get as dark as possible. The hickory seems to be only moderately porous as far as wood goes.
More to follow brothers. Happy holidays, and happy modding
Solid
Last edited:
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2009
- Messages
- 722
Nice work!
I have done a forced patina by dipping the head in a near boiling mix of Hyrdrogen Peroxide and salt. It worked out pretty well. Here is a link to the tutorial I followed, along with a topic of when I did an axe head. (You may need to register to view the topics)
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16456&highlight=rust+bluing
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20389
I have done a forced patina by dipping the head in a near boiling mix of Hyrdrogen Peroxide and salt. It worked out pretty well. Here is a link to the tutorial I followed, along with a topic of when I did an axe head. (You may need to register to view the topics)
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16456&highlight=rust+bluing
http://bushcraftusa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20389
I don't get it.
You stripped the paint, then repainted it? (looks better naked)
Then you wrap the handle in paracord (the point of a hawk is easily taking the head off and using it as a tool and making a new handle if needed. Having all that cord on there is a PITA)
That cord is also going to get wet and be a disgrace to deal with.
Nice work SC :thumbup:
I like the Capt Safety pic... smart!
Man you have a nice shop set-up there.
You asked about rust resistance of brown/blueing and I cannot comment from experience there... I just really like the look of browning!
Your etching turned out great, one idea re: the break down of the edges might be to scrub less. Just an idea.
I like the Capt Safety pic... smart!
Man you have a nice shop set-up there.
You asked about rust resistance of brown/blueing and I cannot comment from experience there... I just really like the look of browning!
Your etching turned out great, one idea re: the break down of the edges might be to scrub less. Just an idea.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
Right on brother Pullrich. I'm thinking for my next etch that I'm just going to let it soak overnight and see how it goes. I'm not sure if that will work well or not, seeing as the waste metal created by the chemical reaction may actually serve to protect the exposed etch area by not allowing the etchtant to come into contact with it. Another fine experiment soon to be tried I'll keep ya'll posted.
Solid
I'll keep ya'll posted.Solid
We'll all be interested in how an overnight soak goes. I've been afraid to do that because when I've done ~2-4 hour soaks, with the hours split up by simple water rinses, the etchant has started to eat under the resist, muddying the lines of the design.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2009
- Messages
- 57
very nice work SC....i wish i was your friend 
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2010
- Messages
- 3
Hello folks.
Well, I'd like to stand up and confess. I joined this forum because I bought 2 trail hawks with the express wish to mod them and make them ready for camp and trail use.
I have seen quite a few interesting mods here but no one has carved the handles. why?
I'm going to see about ordering extra handles for these 2 hawks. (one of them is a christmas gift for my brother) and making some interesting hafts.
After seeing the Parkerizing mod made by GS, I can only applaud. I'm thinking that I will do something similar.
Also, since I'm on the road a lot (have to go where the towers are to work on them) I'm going to pick up my leather working tools when I go home and start working on some decent sheaths as well. (I will leave it to my brother to do the parkerizing, I'll work on the leather and wood parts).
I don't think I'm going to get them done any time soon but at least the hawks are in the mail and thanks to all of your pictures, I have an excellent idea on not only how to do what I want to do, but I also know what NOT to do.
I can only thank you all and say to my wife: "It's not my fault!! I mean, it CALLED to me. When something calls you, ya GOTTA answer...right? Honey?...hello?"
Well, I'd like to stand up and confess. I joined this forum because I bought 2 trail hawks with the express wish to mod them and make them ready for camp and trail use.
I have seen quite a few interesting mods here but no one has carved the handles. why?
I'm going to see about ordering extra handles for these 2 hawks. (one of them is a christmas gift for my brother) and making some interesting hafts.
After seeing the Parkerizing mod made by GS, I can only applaud. I'm thinking that I will do something similar.
Also, since I'm on the road a lot (have to go where the towers are to work on them) I'm going to pick up my leather working tools when I go home and start working on some decent sheaths as well. (I will leave it to my brother to do the parkerizing, I'll work on the leather and wood parts).
I don't think I'm going to get them done any time soon but at least the hawks are in the mail and thanks to all of your pictures, I have an excellent idea on not only how to do what I want to do, but I also know what NOT to do.
I can only thank you all and say to my wife: "It's not my fault!! I mean, it CALLED to me. When something calls you, ya GOTTA answer...right? Honey?...hello?"
I've only gone so far as to carve/burn some designs on my handles; others have done the same. Wood carving would be new territory for me so I'm reluctant to complicate this hawk mod hobby or buy new tools, but I have thought about re-shaping the handle to approximate a grip, stylize parts like the bottom of the haft, etc. There's the question of carving without reducing handle durability, too. Would be great to see whatever carving you end up doing.
What kind of paint should I used on my hawk to get it flat black? I tried some krylon outdoor and it comes right off first whack. I was thinking it would survive a couple smaks at least... lame.
Like, the standard finish paint stayed on really well!! argh
Like, the standard finish paint stayed on really well!! argh
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2010
- Messages
- 3
The guys here have actually been parkerizing them. That's not your average coating though. Usually only the guys who're into rebuilding firearms do it.
it DOES make a great covering though.
Thanks, I might get into blueing at some point. But for now I guess I'll just stick with painting it black every time I use it... No big deal...
Also, where can I find good hafts? Home hardware stores usually have them?
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
Greg,
I did a search on eBay and came up with a seller who was selling bundles of 3 for not so much money. IIRC, I googled "cold steel replacement handle".
I did a search on eBay and came up with a seller who was selling bundles of 3 for not so much money. IIRC, I googled "cold steel replacement handle".