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Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk
- Thread starter CitizenQ
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
OK brothers, here is my next foray into the world of 'hawk mods. I present to you The Zombie Spike.... cause you'll run outta bullets before you run outta zombies 
I stripped off the factory finish in the fashion detailed in my previous post. My plan is to coat this with Duracoat, so I decided to give filling the set screw hole a go. I mixed up some JB Weld, put a piece of tape across the bottom of the hole, and let it drip in to fill the gaps from the bottom up. I let it set up over night, then used a razor blade to trim off the excess. I sanded it, then used an awl to to stipple the surface in an attempt to blend the surface texture into the surrounding material.
I then went online to find a suitable zombie apocalypse graphic. I was looking for a zombie silhouette, but I didn't find one that I though would work as an etched figure, so I settled on a Bio Hazard symbol. I then decided to etch the 'hawk's name into the head
I cut out the stencils, glued them to the head (like last time, I nearly had an aneurysm during this process. I should use bigger, less detailed shapes. Not that I will...), and spray painted over them, giving it 3-4 coats and letting it dry. I then used an exacto knife to removed the stencils.
I was concerned that either the etchtant or the subsequent paint removal might damage the JB Weld in some way and intended to protect it (hence the tape). I needn't have worried though as it came out just fine after the final stripping. I etched the blade first in the same vessel I used for the Ranger Hawk. Then, I added etchtant to a small condiment dish and etched the eye only. The dish is sitting in a baking pan of hot water to keep the etchtant temperature elevated, as it is supposed to help the process.
I pulled it out and rinsed it off 4ish times and, after 5 or so hours, I cleaned it off, stripped off the paint, gave it a light cleaning with the wire wheel, and voila!
I'm considering using some JB Weld to "spackle" over some of the more deeply pitted areas in the blade, though they do contribute to the post apocalyptic feel. I'll convex the edge, then give it a Duracoating. More on that to follow.
One thing I did learn was, if you intend to etch, cover the whole object with the resistant. I didn't coat the spike, never intending it to be exposed to the etchtant. The fumes, however, had other plans and the spike had a light film of rust on it when I was done. I suppose that it really takes no additional time to strip a whole tomahawk head vs. stripping 3/4 of one, but sometimes my laziness gets the better of me. Stay tuned for the completed hawks.
Enjoy brothers!
I stripped off the factory finish in the fashion detailed in my previous post. My plan is to coat this with Duracoat, so I decided to give filling the set screw hole a go. I mixed up some JB Weld, put a piece of tape across the bottom of the hole, and let it drip in to fill the gaps from the bottom up. I let it set up over night, then used a razor blade to trim off the excess. I sanded it, then used an awl to to stipple the surface in an attempt to blend the surface texture into the surrounding material.
I then went online to find a suitable zombie apocalypse graphic. I was looking for a zombie silhouette, but I didn't find one that I though would work as an etched figure, so I settled on a Bio Hazard symbol. I then decided to etch the 'hawk's name into the head
I cut out the stencils, glued them to the head (like last time, I nearly had an aneurysm during this process. I should use bigger, less detailed shapes. Not that I will...), and spray painted over them, giving it 3-4 coats and letting it dry. I then used an exacto knife to removed the stencils.
I was concerned that either the etchtant or the subsequent paint removal might damage the JB Weld in some way and intended to protect it (hence the tape). I needn't have worried though as it came out just fine after the final stripping. I etched the blade first in the same vessel I used for the Ranger Hawk. Then, I added etchtant to a small condiment dish and etched the eye only. The dish is sitting in a baking pan of hot water to keep the etchtant temperature elevated, as it is supposed to help the process.
I pulled it out and rinsed it off 4ish times and, after 5 or so hours, I cleaned it off, stripped off the paint, gave it a light cleaning with the wire wheel, and voila!
I'm considering using some JB Weld to "spackle" over some of the more deeply pitted areas in the blade, though they do contribute to the post apocalyptic feel. I'll convex the edge, then give it a Duracoating. More on that to follow.
One thing I did learn was, if you intend to etch, cover the whole object with the resistant. I didn't coat the spike, never intending it to be exposed to the etchtant. The fumes, however, had other plans and the spike had a light film of rust on it when I was done. I suppose that it really takes no additional time to strip a whole tomahawk head vs. stripping 3/4 of one, but sometimes my laziness gets the better of me. Stay tuned for the completed hawks.
Enjoy brothers!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2008
- Messages
- 1,277
Now the hawk modding rush is on! Aside from the pollhawk I'm working on and my wife's Frontier hawk, there's also my nephew's Christmas present, a modified Trail hawk. I roughed it out today. There are no straight lines left. The haft in the photos is not the one that will be fitted to the head. When all metal prep is complete, satin polished and my usual pewter star is placed into the modified screw hole I will blue the metal. Thanks for looking.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
Nice job Hawkhead. The geometry on that spike is really top notch.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2009
- Messages
- 57
Hawkhead, that looks like a very light and deadly TH! very nice lines, was the spike ground down to that shape, or any forging involved?
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
Ok brothers,
As promised, here are the last few steps up to the finished product. After a final light sanding with 220 for surface prep, I thoroughly degreased the heads, rinsed it, and dried it. I mixed up some Duracoat (Magpul Flat Dark Earth) and sprayed the heads. I used up a full paint pot on my three works in progress and I'd guess my coverage to be approaching 1 mil in thickness. I made sure my ventilation was adequate and that I tool the appropriate safety precautions.
I let the heads dry for a couple days to harden a bit. Upon inspection JB weld hid the set screw hole really well. You can see it if the light is just right, but you really have to have it up to your face.
I decided I was going to epoxy the head in place. I checked the fit using the "tap the end of the haft with a rubber mallet" method, removed the head and used a round file to create a circumferential groove in the haft over which the head will rest. My theory is that this will help the epoxy to grab better, both by exposing the porous wood beneath the finish and by mechanical means as well. I taped off the handle and the head, applied epoxy to the handle and set the head in place. I hung the assembled hawk to dry overnight.
The following day, I removed the tape, applied some Black 550 cord to the handle, and voila!
Pre cord wrap.
Post cord wrap.
I'll post pics of the other finished hawks as I complete them. Enjoy folks.
Solid.
As promised, here are the last few steps up to the finished product. After a final light sanding with 220 for surface prep, I thoroughly degreased the heads, rinsed it, and dried it. I mixed up some Duracoat (Magpul Flat Dark Earth) and sprayed the heads. I used up a full paint pot on my three works in progress and I'd guess my coverage to be approaching 1 mil in thickness. I made sure my ventilation was adequate and that I tool the appropriate safety precautions.
I let the heads dry for a couple days to harden a bit. Upon inspection JB weld hid the set screw hole really well. You can see it if the light is just right, but you really have to have it up to your face.
I decided I was going to epoxy the head in place. I checked the fit using the "tap the end of the haft with a rubber mallet" method, removed the head and used a round file to create a circumferential groove in the haft over which the head will rest. My theory is that this will help the epoxy to grab better, both by exposing the porous wood beneath the finish and by mechanical means as well. I taped off the handle and the head, applied epoxy to the handle and set the head in place. I hung the assembled hawk to dry overnight.
The following day, I removed the tape, applied some Black 550 cord to the handle, and voila!
Pre cord wrap.
Post cord wrap.
I'll post pics of the other finished hawks as I complete them. Enjoy folks.
Solid.
Any images of the epoxying process? what epoxy did you use?
Sweet hawks by the way.
i went with the pipe hawk, hopefully everybody doesn't chastise me for a difference in taste. i like the curvy blade and such. the classic look is what i'm after so i kept it simple.
i didn't take any before pictures just because we all know how they look right out of the box
here are a couple pictures right after i sandblasted it
after that i let it sit for 10-15 mins in heavy duty oven cleaner. did that a couple time to clean it and get a good etch. works like a charm. forgot to take pictures but it didn't look much different to the naked eye then the sandblast
as for the handle, all it did was sand it down to silky smooth and put 2 coats of stain on it. after that i put 1 coat of varnish on, hammered the head back on and put 2 more coats of varnish. sanding the coats smooth inbetween.
a shot right before the last 2 coats of varnish
as for the head of the hawk, it got a couple treatment with gun blue. nothing too complex about that
and the finished product
all that's left to do is find some leather and make a sheath for it and some rope or leather for a wrist wrap doodad.
i didn't take any before pictures just because we all know how they look right out of the box
here are a couple pictures right after i sandblasted it
after that i let it sit for 10-15 mins in heavy duty oven cleaner. did that a couple time to clean it and get a good etch. works like a charm. forgot to take pictures but it didn't look much different to the naked eye then the sandblast
as for the handle, all it did was sand it down to silky smooth and put 2 coats of stain on it. after that i put 1 coat of varnish on, hammered the head back on and put 2 more coats of varnish. sanding the coats smooth inbetween.
a shot right before the last 2 coats of varnish
as for the head of the hawk, it got a couple treatment with gun blue. nothing too complex about that
and the finished product
all that's left to do is find some leather and make a sheath for it and some rope or leather for a wrist wrap doodad.
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
I love the even consistency of the head's surface, post sand blasting. The bluing turned out really nice as well. Well done.
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2010
- Messages
- 3
man, those are NICE hawks by all!
My wife told me yesterday that my 2 trailhawks arrived, which is great, except that I'm working in NC and they're in Tn.
I won't get to work on them until mid January when I go home for a week.
I may end up bringing one back with me to work on it when I come back to work.
(that should be interesting..modding a hawk in an extended stay hotel...eh, well it passes the time when I'm off).
My wife told me yesterday that my 2 trailhawks arrived, which is great, except that I'm working in NC and they're in Tn.
I won't get to work on them until mid January when I go home for a week.
I may end up bringing one back with me to work on it when I come back to work.
(that should be interesting..modding a hawk in an extended stay hotel...eh, well it passes the time when I'm off).
so i tried my hand at leather work today. i figure for a first time try it turned out alright. useable at least.
sorry for the craptaculer pictures. is snowing outside and getting dark fast
not quite sold on the wrist strap yet, but it will do for now until i test it out
sorry for the craptaculer pictures. is snowing outside and getting dark fast
not quite sold on the wrist strap yet, but it will do for now until i test it out