Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk

After reading this thread, I ordered 3 CS TH to see if I can turn out something worth giving away,I should have them in about 20 days. I would like to know the thread pitch for the set screw hole so I can find something to fill it in with,or is it easy to wield for someone who knows how to wield. I am going to have very limited supplies, I am deployed right now but I can find sand paper and files, I need some ideas for a finish on the wood, and the head. I have access to oil, maybe paint but it may be a search and fire. Drop me a few hints. Later M
 
miguel763 said:
Drop me a few hints.
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Welcome aboard, M. Set screw is 3mm. What I have done is brought head to hardware store and tried on screws there until I find one that sort of fits. Then I file and shear it off and file down flush. or just fill hole with JB weld, or with molten pewter.

If deployment permits it, I suggest grabbing a couple of bevvies and reading the entire thread for all the hints you can stand. I use ordinary wood stains on the wood, and birchwood-casey plum browning on the head. But after sanding the head you could simply do a vinegar/mustard soak to get a good patina. Could do something like tung oil on the wood, or other simple preservatives.
 
Welcome aboard miguel763! On the first CS hawk I did (Spike Hawk) I drilled the hole out larger and tapped it out to a standard fine thread and got a brass screw to fit it. I loctited it in place, cut the head off and peined the top to a upholstery tack appearance. On the second one (Trail Hawk) I took out the screw, chamfored the hole very deeply and had a coworker Tig weld the hole full. Make sure you get a good deep chamfor so you will get a deeper weld connection. Welding these works easily and looks great after. I like the welded one as far as the end product. Have fun, the customizing can get addictive!
 
You will get a light gray patina that does not reflect light and is fairly rust resistant if you use a hot orange juice finish on the head. A hot lemon juice finish will give you a darker patina and is faster than the orange juice finish. I like lots of stains for the handle, a matter of choice if you can get it, and like to finish the haft with boiled linseed oil.

Howard
 
I have access to lemon juice concentrate, will that do the job? I need all the help and tips I can get. Thanks Mike
 
I used lemon juice concentrate quite successfully. It deepened the patina to almost double that on the pictures of the orange juice finish on page 74 of this thread.

Howard
 
Read this whole dam thread. And decided that I had to have one of these. Here is my Hawk. Nuthin special, this one has been done before, but it is mine. Wicked little chopper. The only thing that is sorta new it the carry option that I chose. I knew that I would be packing this one in, so I started looking for a Molle option, found one. I took 6$ a molle flashlight holder, cut out the bottom, melted the ends so that they wouldnt ravel out. With the Velcro strap on the front, you can get it where this Hawk is totally secure, wont move up and down, at least not in the holder.

For the head, did all the stuff that was mentioned in the thread, paint stripper, took to work, shot blasted, vinegar, then sharpened. Turned out great.
The Haft, I sanded smooth, took a torch to it to blacken it, and while it was still hot, put liquid black shoe polish on it. After things cooled down, took a 3m pad and rubbed all the excess wax off it, and coated it down with wood sealant. The sealant was probably not necessary, since the hot wax soaked into the pores, but, couldnt hurt.
Also, to protect from overstrikes, I found an old piece of 1.5 inch water hose, cut the canvas to fit and glued it down. Then wrapped it in paracord. Then, wrapped the haft in paracord. Feels really good in the hand, and if I have to grab up behind the head, I get a little bigger grab, easy to control. This one is a user, not a wall hanger. There is nothing permanent, so I can still take the head off, if I rally need to. But, I like it the way it is.:D

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That's a mighty snazzy hawk ya got there Kruger. I like the Molle solution. How did you wrap your handle? I am almost done with my own hawk and the handle wrapping comes next. When I post pics I want that damn set screw!!! lol.
 
HandAxeProMan said:
You will get a light gray patina that does not reflect light and is fairly rust resistant if you use a hot orange juice finish on the head. A hot lemon juice finish will give you a darker patina and is faster than the orange juice finish.

Howard
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Tell us more about this. What kind of orange or lemon juice? How hot? How are you prepping the head beforehand? I'd like a more uniform color than the vinegar gave that I have now, and it looks like that does it if your spike hawk is an example.
Thanks!
 
The spike hawk in the picture was my first. I simply bought the cheapest orange juice I could get. I used paint remover to remove as much of the black paint as possible. Then I used a steel brush in my drill to remove the rest. I sanded the outside to smooth it a bit with emery cloth. I put the head in a pyrex bowl. Place the orange juice in a similar bowl and placed in the microwave for seven minutes at full power. Pour in the orange juice. Make sure it completely covers the head. I turned it over after about thirty minutes. I heated the juice three times to get the finish you see. The head was in the juice for about eight hours. I used lemon juice concentrate for the one I did for my grandson. I only heated it once and it was in the juice for only about four hours. It turned out about twice as dark, but a beautiful patina. Good Luck! Howard
 
This is an old Frontier Hawk, i trimmed some of the upward curve off of the top, and grinded a little more off of the belly. The handle is a hickory sledge hammer handle I worked down (PITA :) ) and the over strike is deer rawhide strip wrapped around, it feels good and quick in the hand but my chopping aim is off, I guess im not use to the longer handle.
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pokesalad said:
That's a mighty snazzy hawk ya got there Kruger. I like the Molle solution. How did you wrap your handle? I am almost done with my own hawk and the handle wrapping comes next. When I post pics I want that damn set screw!!! lol.
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As to the set screw, I aint using mine so you can have it. I have it shoved up a pigs butt, so you can have screw, and the pig. Just pay shipping. The pigs name was Hogzilla. Mom always like me best. Will send a link on the handle wrap.
 
What would I use to smooth out the surface of the tomahawk heads? Do you use the belt sanders for this or do you have to use some sort of grinder first?
 
Triquetra said:
What would I use to smooth out the surface of the tomahawk heads? Do you use the belt sanders for this or do you have to use some sort of grinder first?
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I use either an angle grinder with 220 sand paper or a disc sander attachment on the end of a regular drill. Used to try to do it by hand and that worked ok but couldnt get it as smooth as I wanted. I only want it smooth because it takes a better etch that way.
 
longfletch27 said:
This is an old Frontier Hawk, i trimmed some of the upward curve off of the top, and grinded a little more off of the belly. The handle is a hickory sledge hammer handle I worked down (
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Dude that thing is loonnggg ! Does it work best with 2 hand grip?
 
Well I am not exactly finished with it but here are some pics of what I have done so far. Kruger stripped the head and sand blasted it for me. The heat mark on the blade has quite a bit of pitting on one side and not so much on the other. Can this mark be polished away or am I looking at having to paint the head to get rid of that mark from standing out so badly? I haven't done anything to the head yet but I do have plans.....oh yes....I do have plans. Anyway, here is what I have so far.

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Poke salad you might want to sand or better yet grind out the pits you don't want. Unique hawk you have there, some scary edges all around.
 
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