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- May 18, 2005
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Sure, I think so.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is available! Price is $250 ea (shipped within CONUS).
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/
On-line class Edge re-profile/convex your Busse.
- Thread starter Justabuyer
- Start date
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Messages
- 23,101
I ordered the D8XX Diamond stone and holder.
i have on order / received:
a stone holder
Three Dia-Sharp Diamond Stones by DMT includes:
* Coarse - 8" x 3" Stone
* Fine - 8" x 3" Stone
* Extra Fine - 8" x 3" Stone
all three for for 139.00 at
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/products_id/219
D8XX DIA-SHARP DOUBLE-X COARSE
a Leather Hand Strop, with Veritas® Honing Compound.
Now all i need to do is find some sandpaper. Then i believe i am good to go
I found this online while looking for sandpaper. I have used them in the past and had good results. I was wondering if anyone else has used them.
3M Micro-Abrasives for Sharpening
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33004&cat=1,43072
a stone holder
Three Dia-Sharp Diamond Stones by DMT includes:
* Coarse - 8" x 3" Stone
* Fine - 8" x 3" Stone
* Extra Fine - 8" x 3" Stone
all three for for 139.00 at
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/products_id/219
D8XX DIA-SHARP DOUBLE-X COARSE
a Leather Hand Strop, with Veritas® Honing Compound.
Now all i need to do is find some sandpaper. Then i believe i am good to go
I found this online while looking for sandpaper. I have used them in the past and had good results. I was wondering if anyone else has used them.
3M Micro-Abrasives for Sharpening
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33004&cat=1,43072
Ban
Moderator
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- Oct 14, 1998
- Messages
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Now all i need to do is find some sandpaper. Then i believe i am good to go
I found this online while looking for sandpaper. I have used them in the past and had good results. I was wondering if anyone else has used them.
3M Micro-Abrasives for Sharpening
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=33004&cat=1,43072
That stuff is pretty good. Very similar to the polish tapes used on the EdgePro. The EdgePro polish tapes are also PSA made by 3M.
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Messages
- 23,101
I know I can get some Sandpaper through 1500 grit here in town, but I might have trouble getting 2000+ . . . I do have an air bleeder strop though, maybe that would work?
Hopefully the Diamond Stone comes this week, since it is only coming from one state over.
Hopefully the Diamond Stone comes this week, since it is only coming from one state over.
- Joined
- May 7, 2006
- Messages
- 3,338
Your set RatF... The higher the grit the nicer the final bevel looks and in my mind the more durable and long lasting. But after a certian point you hit diminishing returns. Check the autobody supply stores... They always have 2000 grit
- Joined
- May 7, 2006
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:thumbup:
Are you even allowed to have a set of stones in Canada?
lol surprisingly yes. But who knows what is going to happen when they hit customs.
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2007
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- 3,174
I had a chance to speak with Keith from Hand American at 888-819-6196 and he was very helpful. We discussed what I needed and I have the following inbound:
- Corian Base
- Plate, full grain horse leather
- Plate, split grain horse leather
- Plate, hard felt
- Plate, glass
- A few sheets each of 600, 800, 1500 and 2000 grit wet-dry sandpaper
- Tube of Chromium Oxide (super fine abrasive) with a sheet of honing film that I can affix to the glass plate.
Once I invested in the Corian Base I figured that it made sense to make the system as versatile as possible with the four plates. It may be a plate or two more than I need but I'll be able to experiment with different stroping surfaces.
Why didn't I go with the wood block plan from earlier? I figured that the wood blocks might warp over time, since they would be getting wet, and that could mess up my sharpening. After eliminating the wood blocks I moved to trying to find a Corian Cutting Board that I could cut up into 10x4 rectangles. From there it was an easy jump to go with the Hand American Magnetic system... and a lot easier.
Everything should arrive by Saturday and I'm good to go. :thumbup:
- Corian Base
- Plate, full grain horse leather
- Plate, split grain horse leather
- Plate, hard felt
- Plate, glass
- A few sheets each of 600, 800, 1500 and 2000 grit wet-dry sandpaper
- Tube of Chromium Oxide (super fine abrasive) with a sheet of honing film that I can affix to the glass plate.
Once I invested in the Corian Base I figured that it made sense to make the system as versatile as possible with the four plates. It may be a plate or two more than I need but I'll be able to experiment with different stroping surfaces.
Why didn't I go with the wood block plan from earlier? I figured that the wood blocks might warp over time, since they would be getting wet, and that could mess up my sharpening. After eliminating the wood blocks I moved to trying to find a Corian Cutting Board that I could cut up into 10x4 rectangles. From there it was an easy jump to go with the Hand American Magnetic system... and a lot easier.
Everything should arrive by Saturday and I'm good to go. :thumbup:
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Messages
- 23,101
scored some 600, 1200, & 2000 grit 3M paper.
Diamond stone should be here tomorrow, I have a smaller coarse diamond stone and a carborundum benchstone to handle the slightly finer grits as well as medium and fine Spyderco benchstones. I wanted to pick up one of those magnetic blocks from hand american, but they could not quote me a price or sell it over the phone for some reason
maybe they were pulling my leg, if VoxHog managed to order it. they told me the site should be back on sunday. I do have a mousepad, and a ~5"x 24" strip of leather. I should be set as long as the Diamond stone arrives when they said it will.
How much does the corian base and magnetic leather cost?
Diamond stone should be here tomorrow, I have a smaller coarse diamond stone and a carborundum benchstone to handle the slightly finer grits as well as medium and fine Spyderco benchstones. I wanted to pick up one of those magnetic blocks from hand american, but they could not quote me a price or sell it over the phone for some reason
maybe they were pulling my leg, if VoxHog managed to order it. they told me the site should be back on sunday. I do have a mousepad, and a ~5"x 24" strip of leather. I should be set as long as the Diamond stone arrives when they said it will.How much does the corian base and magnetic leather cost?
- Joined
- May 7, 2006
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- 3,338
Cool, it sounds like folks are getting their stuff in good order. I will post the first lesson tonight and we can work through it over the weekend together.
So by now you should have a knife picked out and for the most part we are looking at Busse knives.
Look closely at your blade paying attention to the edge. Look and see that on Busse grinds as the blade edge sweeps up into the spine it gets thicker and thicker right behind the edge. Now you can make a case that this is a good thing. Many makers taper the blade in such a way as to avoid this so the knife will cut as well all the way out to the tip. Some makers like Busse generally do not. The advantage to this is increased tip strength.
I do not use the tips of my knives in a manner that needs the steel to be that thick at the edge and I suspect many of us don't. I use my knives to cut and chop things that should be cut and chopped with knives.
Fixing or changing this aspect of your Busse knife is the part that will give you the most trouble and the main reason for the xxcourse stone.
So as you wait for tonights lesson and this weekends homework look at your blade and visualize what YOU WANT. You can even get a magic marker and color areas you want to thin out. Look down at the spine and decide on the the profile you want to have on the tip of your knife.
More later with pictures and steps to follow..... I am actually taking the afternoon off work to do this right for you guys. I am pretty excited about sharing what I have learned directly from this forum and others like it over the last few years.
See you guys tonight.
So by now you should have a knife picked out and for the most part we are looking at Busse knives.
Look closely at your blade paying attention to the edge. Look and see that on Busse grinds as the blade edge sweeps up into the spine it gets thicker and thicker right behind the edge. Now you can make a case that this is a good thing. Many makers taper the blade in such a way as to avoid this so the knife will cut as well all the way out to the tip. Some makers like Busse generally do not. The advantage to this is increased tip strength.
I do not use the tips of my knives in a manner that needs the steel to be that thick at the edge and I suspect many of us don't. I use my knives to cut and chop things that should be cut and chopped with knives.
Fixing or changing this aspect of your Busse knife is the part that will give you the most trouble and the main reason for the xxcourse stone.
So as you wait for tonights lesson and this weekends homework look at your blade and visualize what YOU WANT. You can even get a magic marker and color areas you want to thin out. Look down at the spine and decide on the the profile you want to have on the tip of your knife.
More later with pictures and steps to follow..... I am actually taking the afternoon off work to do this right for you guys. I am pretty excited about sharing what I have learned directly from this forum and others like it over the last few years.
See you guys tonight.
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- May 7, 2006
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- 3,338
RF..I don't remember its been well over a year since I bought mine. To bad about Hand American. GREAT product but kinda flaky in terms of getting sold to people that want it. I wish them the best of luck and hope they get it sorted out soon.
I just don't know where to send people for a equivalent product.
- Joined
- May 18, 2005
- Messages
- 23,101
Yeah I did a search and could not find any similar products.
- Joined
- May 7, 2006
- Messages
- 3,338
Lesson 1 XXcourse stone stock removal
We will be working with the following items
XXcourse stone,water, your knife and a Rag. The stone, knife and water will be oriented in this manner:
You will have mapped out in your head and on the knife with magic marker a rough outline of the metal you want to remove.
Here are some fast and dirty diagrams to help you. Remember on most Busse Knives the tip is thicker so you can either try to grind some taper into the blade with a stone by hand or have a wider edge bevel. It is possible to add some taper with a stone it just takes hours/days. Let me try to draw you a picture
First picture is of the blade from the side. The blue area is what a bevel on an average Busse knife will end up looking like if you go for a constant bevel angle. Note it gets wider out by the tip. This is because the blade is thicker there.
The second picture is the view you would get if you snapped the blade in half and looked at the cross section. Once again the blue part is what you want to remove.
Here are some pictures of before and after in a FFFBM that has had some taper added in addition to convexing.
Before
After
Next we take our blade and draw out our new bevel. On the knife I chose to work on the maker did add some taper to the end of the blade so the edge bevel will stay the same width more or less. Here is the before marking picture and the after marking shot.
OK now lets wet our xxcourse diamond stone and cut away the excess stock. Here are some pointers. Youre going to want to stop before youre done. Everybody does. Youre going to panic because it looks bad. RELAX it is going to look like hell until we get to the sandpaper part. Go ahead and make that edge bevel thin. If you go to thin we can easily make it better again with the sandpaper convexing. You want to keep going on one side until there is a good burr the ENTIRE length of the cutting edge. Keep the stone wet and clean.
I am going to do mine real quick so you can see whatit is supposed to look like. I will be back with more picture shortly.
We will be working with the following items
XXcourse stone,water, your knife and a Rag. The stone, knife and water will be oriented in this manner:
You will have mapped out in your head and on the knife with magic marker a rough outline of the metal you want to remove.
Here are some fast and dirty diagrams to help you. Remember on most Busse Knives the tip is thicker so you can either try to grind some taper into the blade with a stone by hand or have a wider edge bevel. It is possible to add some taper with a stone it just takes hours/days. Let me try to draw you a picture
First picture is of the blade from the side. The blue area is what a bevel on an average Busse knife will end up looking like if you go for a constant bevel angle. Note it gets wider out by the tip. This is because the blade is thicker there.
The second picture is the view you would get if you snapped the blade in half and looked at the cross section. Once again the blue part is what you want to remove.
Here are some pictures of before and after in a FFFBM that has had some taper added in addition to convexing.
Before
After
Next we take our blade and draw out our new bevel. On the knife I chose to work on the maker did add some taper to the end of the blade so the edge bevel will stay the same width more or less. Here is the before marking picture and the after marking shot.
OK now lets wet our xxcourse diamond stone and cut away the excess stock. Here are some pointers. Youre going to want to stop before youre done. Everybody does. Youre going to panic because it looks bad. RELAX it is going to look like hell until we get to the sandpaper part. Go ahead and make that edge bevel thin. If you go to thin we can easily make it better again with the sandpaper convexing. You want to keep going on one side until there is a good burr the ENTIRE length of the cutting edge. Keep the stone wet and clean.
I am going to do mine real quick so you can see whatit is supposed to look like. I will be back with more picture shortly.
- Joined
- May 7, 2006
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OK here are some pictures of the edge Bevel That has been reset on a xxcourse stone. This took less than five Mins per side.
Note it still looks very rough. Thats Ok I have the basic geometry I want and a good burr formed. Lets see your guys pictures before and after and some talk about your experience.
Note it still looks very rough. Thats Ok I have the basic geometry I want and a good burr formed. Lets see your guys pictures before and after and some talk about your experience.