On-line class Edge re-profile/convex your Busse.

Cobalt said:
I have a mouse pad, is that good enough?
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yeah mouse pads work. They are a little better actually for forming the convex. Over all I like leather better for the final stages and polish.

But you will be fine with the mousepad.

Jim
 
yeah mouse pads work. They are a little better actually for forming the convex. Over all I like leather better for the final stages and polish.
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How does this sound for a mounting system:
1. Take a standard 2x4 and cut four 10 inch wooden blocks. These should fit into the Bench Stone Holder for the 10x4 DuoSharp stones so I can use one Holder at a fairly consistent height for all the work. If the blocks wiggle a bit I can strap them onto the Holder with thick rubber bands.
2. Glue a mousepad, cut to 10x4 to block 1. This is for the 600 grit sandpaper and (I assume) the bulk of the convexing work.
3. Glue leather to blocks 2 thru 4. Block 2 will be for the 1300 grit, block 3 for the 2000 grit, and block 4 for plain leather stroping.
4. Figure out some system for attaching the sand paper to blocks 1 thru 3. Maybe more rubber bands?

What do you think? Any advice is more than welcome. :D
 
VoxHog said:
How does this sound for a mounting system:
1. Take a standard 2x4 and cut four 10 inch wooden blocks. These should fit into the Bench Stone Holder for the 10x4 DuoSharp stones so I can use one Holder at a fairly consistent height for all the work. If the blocks wiggle a bit I can strap them onto the Holder with thick rubber bands.
2. Glue a mousepad, cut to 10x4 to block 1. This is for the 600 grit sandpaper and (I assume) the bulk of the convexing work.
3. Glue leather to blocks 2 thru 4. Block 2 will be for the 1300 grit, block 3 for the 2000 grit, and block 4 for plain leather stroping.
4. Figure out some system for attaching the sand paper to blocks 1 thru 3. Maybe more rubber bands?

What do you think? Any advice is more than welcome. :D
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That sounds great!! I like the idea of having all the grits ready to go. Keep in mind we WILL BE USING WATER! Doing this wet works WAY better.

Take a picture when you have a prototype. This is EXACTLY the kind of interaction I had hoped this thread would produce.
 
VoxHog said:
How does this sound for a mounting system:
1. Take a standard 2x4 and cut four 10 inch wooden blocks. These should fit into the Bench Stone Holder for the 10x4 DuoSharp stones so I can use one Holder at a fairly consistent height for all the work. If the blocks wiggle a bit I can strap them onto the Holder with thick rubber bands.
2. Glue a mousepad, cut to 10x4 to block 1. This is for the 600 grit sandpaper and (I assume) the bulk of the convexing work.
3. Glue leather to blocks 2 thru 4. Block 2 will be for the 1300 grit, block 3 for the 2000 grit, and block 4 for plain leather stroping.
4. Figure out some system for attaching the sand paper to blocks 1 thru 3. Maybe more rubber bands?

What do you think? Any advice is more than welcome. :D
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I would just get the universal stone holder and a strop that would fit in it ;) That way you have one base and multiple abrasive surface. I suppose you can have a base for each individual grit. But changing them out only takes literally seconds.

You don't need a different leather strop for each stage. One should do it. I just load my strop with green compound and then just wrap sandpaper over it if you want coarser. I am not sure how Jim does it though.
 
Justabuyer, I'm not going to have the cash right now to pick up the supplies needed, if you have someone in line that wants to jump in, I'm cool with that, could you please pencil me in when and if you do this again? I appreciate the oppurtunity as I definately need some help with my sharpening skills!
 
Any idea where I might find the right kind of leather for making 4x10 strops?

What kind of glue would one use to attach leather to wood?

I'm in uncharted territory here. :eek:
 
VoxHog said:
Any idea where I might find the right kind of leather for making 4x10 strops?

What kind of glue would one use to attach leather to wood?

I'm in uncharted territory here. :eek:
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You can get leather from most knife supply places like Texas Knife Supply, Jantz, Sheffields Knife Supply, etc.... In addition you can also get it from Tandy Leather and a bunch of other online places that I cannot remember.

Glue it to wood or whatever flat surface you prefer with Epoxy then place another flat surface ontop of the leather and clamp the whole thing down. This is to ensure that the leather is nice and flat when everything dries.
 
Hi Justabuyer - Sorry to do this, but I just found out I have to leave for a week in Asia this weekend, so please give my spot to someone on the wait list.

Thanks for doing this,
UDDwaine
 
Hi, best to all. Looks like Justabuyers course looks great. I have been doing free hand sharpening for some time now which includes wood sculpture with chisels and reprofiling EXPENSIVE knives. I am reprofiling a beautiful CGFBM right now. I can say that the recomendations of your teacher are right on. I use a black DMT 12 incher (they don't make em anymore) and then go to a DMT red 12 inch stone. After that I go to a hard arkansas and finish up on a translucent arkansas. I am trying to get a 12 inch complete set and I only lack the big translucent. I am looking forward to buying a universal stand as your teacher recommends and am at present drooling over the XX coarse and the XX fine diasharp stones. They are relatively new products. I use the DMT's dry and just wash them off every now and again. No problem. The Arkansas, on the other hand, must be used with oil or they plug up almost immediately. I want to congratulate Justabuyer on his initiative, and I will close by saying that REAL MEN FREE-HAND. Best of luck to all you students. Cheers, Alex.
 
Alex p. Schorsc said:
Hi, best to all. Looks like Justabuyers course looks great. I have been doing free hand sharpening for some time now which includes wood sculpture with chisels and reprofiling EXPENSIVE knives. I am reprofiling a beautiful CGFBM right now. I can say that the recomendations of your teacher are right on. I use a black DMT 12 incher (they don't make em anymore) and then go to a DMT red 12 inch stone. After that I go to a hard arkansas and finish up on a translucent arkansas. I am trying to get a 12 inch complete set and I only lack the big translucent. I am looking forward to buying a universal stand as your teacher recommends and am at present drooling over the XX coarse and the XX fine diasharp stones. They are relatively new products. I use the DMT's dry and just wash them off every now and again. No problem. The Arkansas, on the other hand, must be used with oil or they plug up almost immediately. I want to congratulate Justabuyer on his initiative, and I will close by saying that REAL MEN FREE-HAND. Best of luck to all you students. Cheers, Alex.
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Thanks a lot for the kind words and support. The XX course stone is a MARVEL. But the XXFINE is a disapointment to me. I think the finish result and usefullness of Diamond stones starts to drop off at about the 1200 grit range. After that other classes of abrasives seem work better.

Jim
 
UDDwaine said:
Hi Justabuyer - Sorry to do this, but I just found out I have to leave for a week in Asia this weekend, so please give my spot to someone on the wait list.

Thanks for doing this,
UDDwaine
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Thanks for letting me know... Please do check inon the thread!

OPEN SPOT!!!!
 
Done bro.... are you going to be able to catch up on the materials list by the week end? Also will I still be able to conduct the class in English? :D
 
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