Sodbusters, whos got em'?

Very nice Sam. The Rough Rider looks cool with the scales it has. You might peen the pivot pin on the large Boker too. That'll take the blade play out of it. Maybe put a piece of leather between the jaws of a vice and gently (very gently) squeez the area of the pivot pin too.

All three are very nice.
 
Modoc ED said:
Very nice Sam. The Rough Rider looks cool with the scales it has. You might peen the pivot pin on the large Boker too. That'll take the blade play out of it. Maybe put a piece of leather between the jaws of a vice and gently (very gently) squeez the area of the pivot pin too.

All three are very nice.
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thank you ed, i am going to take the large boker to the vice in a few minutes here at work and see what i can do. i just love sodbusters, simple, beautiful, and useful.

thanks sam
 
samblam said:
ed, those bulldog brands are really cool, i like that they come in different colors, i'm gonna have to try one of them, i also wish queen hadn't stopped making the red country cousin.
thanks for the pictures, now if it were only friday so my new bokers would get here.

thanks
sam
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FYI, the Bulldog sodbusters are identical, in pattern, to the Eye Brand (Carl Schlieper) soddies, in both large and small sizes. The difference is in the finish & colors. The Bulldogs' blades are polished, and the blade etch is different, obviously. Otherwise, exact same size & shape, and both feature the matchstriker pull. I'm assuming both brands came from the same production line/factory.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
FYI, the Bulldog sodbusters are identical, in pattern, to the Eye Brand (Carl Schlieper) soddies, in both large and small sizes. The difference is in the finish & colors. The Bulldogs' blades are polished, and the blade etch is different, obviously. Otherwise, exact same size & shape, and both feature the matchstriker pull. I'm assuming both brands came from the same production line/factory.
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david, good stuff to know, i'm interested in picking up a couple of the bulldogs just for the different colors.

thanks
sam
 
samblam said:
david, good stuff to know, i'm interested in picking up a couple of the bulldogs just for the different colors.

thanks
sam
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I bought a small handful of them a while back. They're stashed away, but as I recall, I have a large & small in each of red & yellow, and a large one in green. I think these aren't as well-known as other soddies, so they make an interesting addition to my 'collection', such that it is. As I mentioned, they're just like the Eye Brand, but more 'polished'. The thinner profile of the Eye Brand (synthetic handled) pattern is quite nice for pocket carry (even the large one), especially in the back pocket. I like 'em. :)
 
Some sodbusters:

the top one and middle one (Kissing Cranes) get used the most...the rest are just 'back-ups'

P1000890.jpg
 
caseres, very nice bunch you have there, i carry my black case jr. to work everyday wonderful knife, and i also use my brown mule often for food prep and what not. i am also getting into a good relationship with my queen country cousin. very nice thanks for sharing.

thanks
sam
 
Thanks Sam,
I love the Case jr. It has been used for lots of jobs. I am still not sure about the D2 steel on the Queen. I cannot seem to get on very well with D2. I prefer carbon or Case stainless, which I find is easy to take care of.
 
Casares. I do belive I think like you about steels. Before I got any upper end steels I thought they was only better in every aspect. I now have experiense with SGPS, VG10, D2, ATS 34, 440 c and a few more. They do hold their edges good but even them looses the edge after not to long a while. Especially D2 I experience difficult to bring to hairpopping sharp and when its there it looses it as quick as most steels. Yesd it stays semisharp good but that isnt what I prefere in an edge. I belive the advantages of CV, Case SS, 1095, sandvik 12c27 to be as many even if long edge lasting isnt one of the main caracters.

I have a Case CV sodbuster jr, It hasent quite managed to be an true EDC but I often use it in nature. Its one of the teriffic patterns but Im just into a long stockman period.

Bosse
 
Interesting. I just cannot understand why D2 is such a problem. Is it hard to heat treat correctly? is that why it seems difficult to get it sharp.??? is there just a quality control problem?
 
Casares said:
Interesting. I just cannot understand why D2 is such a problem. Is it hard to heat treat correctly? is that why it seems difficult to get it sharp.??? is there just a quality control problem?
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D2 is great steel. It's at it's best when heat-treated to higher RC (60 or so). It is much harder to sharpen, by conventional means. Silicon carbide or aluminum oxide (such as in wet/dry sandpaper or ceramics), or diamond hones make it easier. In the case of Queen's knives, they're known (unfortunately) to sometimes come with blunt edges on the blades. Combine that with a thicker grind (than found on Case's hollow-ground sodbuster, which is quite thin at the edge), and it means more metal needs to be removed, to get a decent bevel. Takes some getting used to, but the end results are worth it. It will (eventually) take a very, very fine edge, and hold it for a long while. It's getting to be my favorite, I think.
 
I have the Case Jr. and the Queen CC with the D2 and I can say the Case, out of the box, was much better at slicing. That being said, yesterday I worked the D2 down to a fine edge using a 1X30 belt sander. It is amazing how much wear resistance the D2 has, but I got it done. The results are well worth it! It now slices like the Case and holds the edge far better. I only wish I had the equipment and experence to realy grind the D2 like the Case blade. I bet it would realy shine then! I use these knives as kitchen knives that I keep away from the wife and son, because they are incapable of taking care of a knife, when I want a sharp knife!:grumpy:

I have read some articles on the premium steels, and how they need to be thinned out to realy shine!
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
D2 is great steel. It's at it's best when heat-treated to higher RC (60 or so). It is much harder to sharpen, by conventional means. Silicon carbide or aluminum oxide (such as in wet/dry sandpaper or ceramics), or diamond hones make it easier. In the case of Queen's knives, they're known (unfortunately) to sometimes come with blunt edges on the blades. Combine that with a thicker grind (than found on Case's hollow-ground sodbuster, which is quite thin at the edge), and it means more metal needs to be removed, to get a decent bevel. Takes some getting used to, but the end results are worth it. It will (eventually) take a very, very fine edge, and hold it for a long while. It's getting to be my favorite, I think.
Click to expand...

I agree, my queen bear head (hunter fixed blade) came dull as a door nail! and I wacked it on the medium diamond, then fine and then ultra fine and it pops hairs. I do like D2 but it can be a real pain to get that really aggressive "dont play around or i'll cut you" edge.

I would like to get a folder in D2 to really get the EDC aspect of it going, a D2 sodbuster would be perfect for that.
 
Robert.B said:
I agree, my queen bear head (hunter fixed blade) came dull as a door nail! and I wacked it on the medium diamond, then fine and then ultra fine and it pops hairs. I do like D2 but it can be a real pain to get that really aggressive "dont play around or i'll cut you" edge.

I would like to get a folder in D2 to really get the EDC aspect of it going, a D2 sodbuster would be perfect for that.
Click to expand...

I've experimented with different ways to sharpen my D2 folders (Queen), and the method I've settled into is to use a DMT hone (coarse, or maybe fine) to initially put a decent bevel on it, and then I refine it with my favorite method, using wet/dry sandpaper on my strop block. So, it starts with a V-bevel from the diamond hone, then finishes as a convex edge.

The "don't play around or i'll cut you" edge, that you mentioned, rings all-too-true for me. When I was using my pocket-size DMT hone to put the bevel on my Queen sodbuster (Country Cousin), I decided to switch hands to put a bevel on the other side of the blade (just to see if I could do it ambidextrously). Didn't take long to slice my thumb open, as I over-reached a bit, and let the blade come off the end of the hone. Bled like a stuck pig but, on the upside, I immediately knew I was making progress. :D
 
I've got three sodbusters, a big Case, a big Bulldog, and a jr German Bull stag. I've got a giveaway coming up in a few weeks, and I'll probably use one of these for it.
 
thanks for the D2 sharpening hints, guys. I will need to get to work with the stones........
 
Notice. AGR introduces Sodbuster variations at competitive price. These are currently available.

Mods, if this notice is inappropriate, please move it.

According to AG Russell, Sodbuster is a Registered trade mark for Case.

AGR has been churning out new patterns and pattern variations under his own name, which means that every knife is subject to rigid inspection prior to shipping. I have never had bad knife that has the AGR stamp. I buy them new and used.

Information is currently available on the AGR website.

AGR calls these new, price competitive Sodbuter variations Cowboy and Rancher. He does produce them in his famous "Rucarta" handle materal, another of his copyright work arounds.

This forum has introduced me to Sodbusters. They are great utility blades.
 
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Got this SS Case 4 5/8" Navy Blue Sodbuster in yesterday. It had a slight problem (blade wasn't centered) but I fixed it and it's good to go now. Just fits in my front pocket. Should be a great carry knife.

casesodbusternavyblueco.jpg


Some of you guys have been posting about your new Sodbusters -- let's see em!!!!!
 
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