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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
SRM, Bee, Enlan, Navy and knives Fan post
- Thread starter mantzao
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Have you tried to access those restricted pages through anonymous web proxy yet?
I took some pics of my first Sanrenmu 738 which I received yesterday. It's really a classy little folder:
Those that work only works a while before the proxy gets shut down.
The 738 is nice. Are the blue liners stainless or aluminium?
Benny, the steel of the el06 is 9cr instead of 8cr. Its got a slick coating and I like its scales which I find are a little more comfortable to hold. What I prefer is axis locks but with what I have, I like the handle of elo4mct, el02 (mct), el06, then followed by el04g10 and el02. Bladewise, I like the profile of el04 and el06 as its not hollow. What I do not like about the el04 is the incline at which the blade is set when opened compared to the el06 above. In short, I think its a worth it buy like all other enlans. Sorry I had taken only a photo of it and its all packed up.
I got an enlan with quite nice wooden scales.
the especially like the L05-1 which I recently lost.
The 738 is nice. Are the blue liners stainless or aluminium?
Benny, the steel of the el06 is 9cr instead of 8cr. Its got a slick coating and I like its scales which I find are a little more comfortable to hold. What I prefer is axis locks but with what I have, I like the handle of elo4mct, el02 (mct), el06, then followed by el04g10 and el02. Bladewise, I like the profile of el04 and el06 as its not hollow. What I do not like about the el04 is the incline at which the blade is set when opened compared to the el06 above. In short, I think its a worth it buy like all other enlans. Sorry I had taken only a photo of it and its all packed up.
I got an enlan with quite nice wooden scales.
the especially like the L05-1 which I recently lost.
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My EDC, only SRM T21 is not really EDC, currently being sharpened ... Thus today it's here. 763 is the current EDC 
I like 763 for the carry better, it's slimmer (fit jeans watch pocket better) and blade has been fully reprofiled to my liking. T21 is in the process of being resharpened. The blade is a continuous curve all in all, it takes some finesse to sharpen it (I try following factory bevel).
I like 763 for the carry better, it's slimmer (fit jeans watch pocket better) and blade has been fully reprofiled to my liking. T21 is in the process of being resharpened. The blade is a continuous curve all in all, it takes some finesse to sharpen it (I try following factory bevel).
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- Sep 1, 2011
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i own both of these as well and out of 12 or so china knives i bought these were the smoothest to open without fiddling with pivots, teardowns or lube. modded the Bee L05-1 clip for tipup!! that Bee logo makes me giggle
also have the woodhandled SRM 905. been too lazy to get a tool for pivot wore it in well but thumbstud is kinda tall and slender. prefer the egros of the Bee L05-1
also have the woodhandled SRM 905. been too lazy to get a tool for pivot wore it in well but thumbstud is kinda tall and slender. prefer the egros of the Bee L05-1
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Looks good! Wondering if it protects the blade from rust? I found 8Cr13MoV rusts easier than Victorinox or other entry level steel such as AUS 6 & 8, 440C.
There's a thread in General of an AUS8 blade lost in the field (soil) and found after 5 years almost unblemished. I am not sure our SRMs and Enlans will last that long and not getting pitted rust.
There's a thread in General of an AUS8 blade lost in the field (soil) and found after 5 years almost unblemished. I am not sure our SRMs and Enlans will last that long and not getting pitted rust.
Chris "Anagarika";10688261 said:My EDC, only SRM T21 is not really EDC, currently being sharpened ... Thus today it's here. 763 is the current EDC
I like 763 for the carry better, it's slimmer (fit jeans watch pocket better) and blade has been fully reprofiled to my liking. T21 is in the process of being resharpened. The blade is a continuous curve all in all, it takes some finesse to sharpen it (I try following factory bevel).
Do you happen to have pictures of your reprofiled 763? You sure can sharpen! I have problems sharpening blades with belly. I find that they need more attention than I am willing to give. I meanI can sharpen a few normal knives for the time taken to do a slight recurved one. T16 and 603 are one of those few
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Masa,
Thank you. It is still a long journey. Seems vortex up there can maintain the tip thickness
As can be seen, there're scratches from sharpening during overzealous moment. It is also obvious that I thinned down the tip too much.
The key for your trouble about belly & my about thinning tips too much is to keep constant angle throughout whole length of blade edge.
Now, the angle is measured using a perpendicular plane against the blade edge, so when reaching belly and tip, the perpendicular plane moves as well.
Take an example: the knife is horizontal with the tips pointing left (West), handle at East and the spine is at South while the edge is facing North. The perpendicular plane at the straight part of the blade runs vertically along the North-South axis. Draw the imaginary line on the intersection of this plane with the blade, from spine to edge.
Raise it 20 degree at spine. You've established 20 degree per side (40 degree inclusive) sharpening angle. Keep this constant along the straight edge during sharpening (assuming stone is laying horizontal)
Now, let's check the tip. At this part, the edge runs somewhat along Northeast to Southwest. As such, the perpendicular plane is to be established along Northwest to Southeast direction, so it keeps being perpendicular to the edge. We then have to adjust the blade to form 20 degree between edge and stone by raising the necessary spine, handle, etc, along this perpendicular plane.
Thus the perpendicular plane must always be adjusted along the blade edge. This is the reason some of the masters here sharpened in sections, so it is easier to re-establish the constant angle per section.
Sorry if this is lengthy, for lacking drawing tool & scanner, I can only describe it.
Images below show more clearly the thinned down tip and the fact that lighting & shooting angle can hide blemishes
If only I do as well as what I said above, the tip won't be that thin, and yet still sharp
Thank you. It is still a long journey. Seems vortex up there can maintain the tip thickness
As can be seen, there're scratches from sharpening during overzealous moment. It is also obvious that I thinned down the tip too much.
The key for your trouble about belly & my about thinning tips too much is to keep constant angle throughout whole length of blade edge.
Now, the angle is measured using a perpendicular plane against the blade edge, so when reaching belly and tip, the perpendicular plane moves as well.
Take an example: the knife is horizontal with the tips pointing left (West), handle at East and the spine is at South while the edge is facing North. The perpendicular plane at the straight part of the blade runs vertically along the North-South axis. Draw the imaginary line on the intersection of this plane with the blade, from spine to edge.
Raise it 20 degree at spine. You've established 20 degree per side (40 degree inclusive) sharpening angle. Keep this constant along the straight edge during sharpening (assuming stone is laying horizontal)
Now, let's check the tip. At this part, the edge runs somewhat along Northeast to Southwest. As such, the perpendicular plane is to be established along Northwest to Southeast direction, so it keeps being perpendicular to the edge. We then have to adjust the blade to form 20 degree between edge and stone by raising the necessary spine, handle, etc, along this perpendicular plane.
Thus the perpendicular plane must always be adjusted along the blade edge. This is the reason some of the masters here sharpened in sections, so it is easier to re-establish the constant angle per section.
Sorry if this is lengthy, for lacking drawing tool & scanner, I can only describe it.
Images below show more clearly the thinned down tip and the fact that lighting & shooting angle can hide blemishes
If only I do as well as what I said above, the tip won't be that thin, and yet still sharp
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- Nov 9, 2001
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- 454
I suppose it's steel because it also functions as a lock bar.
I use my Sharpmaker to maintain the edge on my knives which can be very tedious sometimes (reprofiling) so I'm looking for a faster solution (paperwheel, beltsander etc.).Chris "Anagarika";10691453 said:Masa,
Thank you. It is still a long journey. Seems vortex up there can maintain the tip thickness
How long does it take to achive an edge like the one of your K631?
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The first attempt was about 10 sessions, each about 1-2 hrs (can't remember exactly). I was removing so much metal.
The second attempt was about 5 sessions only, as I raised the angle, removing less metal.
The resulting bevel of first attempt was about twice as wide as second attempt, even though I ended up convexing them both.
This was done with 320, 400 grit stone from Daisho (convenient store), then another better quality dual 400/1000 grit stone (similar to taedea stone sold @ exduct) once the bevel was set. Finishing on sandpaper and home made strop.
The second attempt was about 5 sessions only, as I raised the angle, removing less metal.
The resulting bevel of first attempt was about twice as wide as second attempt, even though I ended up convexing them both.
This was done with 320, 400 grit stone from Daisho (convenient store), then another better quality dual 400/1000 grit stone (similar to taedea stone sold @ exduct) once the bevel was set. Finishing on sandpaper and home made strop.
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Just got my F2-710 in the mail today. I am happy to say that it is perfect! This thing is rock solid, great lockup, perfect centering and just screams quality, simply amazing considering it was just over $10!!
I would recommend getting the Diamond stones for your sharpmaker, makes reprofiling WAY easier! You really can't beat the Sharpmaker, I always get a perfect edge when using mine, no issue at all, and you basically can't mess up the edge.
I would recommend getting the Diamond stones for your sharpmaker, makes reprofiling WAY easier! You really can't beat the Sharpmaker, I always get a perfect edge when using mine, no issue at all, and you basically can't mess up the edge.
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- May 21, 2011
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Well how about that... I was trying to come up with an introductary sentence that could express the mere excitement I feel at the moment but I can't find anything adequate.
So, I guess it's time to explain my excitement. The mailguy stopped and ringed the doorbell, it was a package from Hong Kong. Couldn't get it open fast enough, en then followed the first look on three new knives. In the package they looked ok, but I didn't get any WOW-feeling yet. Opened the first one up, a SRM 763. I was surprised on how small it was. It's pretty much a 3 finger grip. From pictures I had seen on the web, the G10 handles looked OK but kind off 'crappy plastic'-like. Well, that wasn't the case at all. The G10 was ground in a way that it somewhat resembles a typical carbon fiber look, when light catches onto it. It didn't fel crappy either, it felt great! And so light! And the blade comes out so easily, and the pocket clip is perfection, and it can open beer bottles, and it has an axis lock, and...and...:foot:. HNNNGGGG, I really dig this knife.
On to the next one. It was the well known 710. Looked great, felt great. The texture in the handle is a nice extra touch. It sure is heavy though, for a smaller knife. But, that ain't a biggie. This knife just looks and feels amazing. Screams quality as well. I've got a good 3, maybe 3 and a half finger grip in the handle, great for such a small knife. Pocket clip might be a bit long though. Anyway: Impressed! Opens soooo smoothly, it's amazing.
Last but not least, time for the 738. Wow, this knife looks gorgeous. The carbon fiber inlay is a bit scratched up but looks really slick if you don't keep it closer than 5cm from your eyes. That blue liners...AMAGAD *drool*. It flicks open really smooth, feels good in the hand, pocket clip is OK -nothing much to say about that-, 3 finger grip on the handle...
Wow you guys, just wow. These knives are just... wow. Don't know what else to say. Ofcourse the steel isn't s30v but does it have to be? Nope, these knives are small and not meant to be abused IMO, so for the tasks I will be using them for, the 8cr is more than adequate. Did I already mention these knives are crazy sharp out of the box? But really, CRAZY
.
I'm glad I listened to the advice of the peeps here at BF. These new 'toys' are most awesome indeed...
Here's a picture that doesn't do these knives any justice. Any advice on those who don't own these yet: get them asap. Really, there won't be any regrets whatsoever.
So, I guess it's time to explain my excitement. The mailguy stopped and ringed the doorbell, it was a package from Hong Kong. Couldn't get it open fast enough, en then followed the first look on three new knives. In the package they looked ok, but I didn't get any WOW-feeling yet. Opened the first one up, a SRM 763. I was surprised on how small it was. It's pretty much a 3 finger grip. From pictures I had seen on the web, the G10 handles looked OK but kind off 'crappy plastic'-like. Well, that wasn't the case at all. The G10 was ground in a way that it somewhat resembles a typical carbon fiber look, when light catches onto it. It didn't fel crappy either, it felt great! And so light! And the blade comes out so easily, and the pocket clip is perfection, and it can open beer bottles, and it has an axis lock, and...and...:foot:. HNNNGGGG, I really dig this knife.
On to the next one. It was the well known 710. Looked great, felt great. The texture in the handle is a nice extra touch. It sure is heavy though, for a smaller knife. But, that ain't a biggie. This knife just looks and feels amazing. Screams quality as well. I've got a good 3, maybe 3 and a half finger grip in the handle, great for such a small knife. Pocket clip might be a bit long though. Anyway: Impressed! Opens soooo smoothly, it's amazing.
Last but not least, time for the 738. Wow, this knife looks gorgeous. The carbon fiber inlay is a bit scratched up but looks really slick if you don't keep it closer than 5cm from your eyes. That blue liners...AMAGAD *drool*. It flicks open really smooth, feels good in the hand, pocket clip is OK -nothing much to say about that-, 3 finger grip on the handle...
Wow you guys, just wow. These knives are just... wow. Don't know what else to say. Ofcourse the steel isn't s30v but does it have to be? Nope, these knives are small and not meant to be abused IMO, so for the tasks I will be using them for, the 8cr is more than adequate. Did I already mention these knives are crazy sharp out of the box? But really, CRAZY
.I'm glad I listened to the advice of the peeps here at BF. These new 'toys' are most awesome indeed...
Here's a picture that doesn't do these knives any justice. Any advice on those who don't own these yet: get them asap. Really, there won't be any regrets whatsoever.
the only regret I had was not getting them earlier. I was introduced to them by a china dealer but did not buy any until much later when I see people here talking about them. Maybe you like to try the larger version of the enlan, very nice too. I personally prefer the axis lock ones.
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Finally managed to resharpened fully the T21.
Notes:
* The edge was ground on wheel (hollow), so when sharpened on flat stone, the original factory grind line is still visible even after it's fully apexed. Imagine "(" followed with "|", the inner part of the "(" won't get touched at all.
* The Victorinox pocket sharpener works well (not sure about grit, perhaps 400-600) for the recurved profile.
* Since only minimum metal is removed by following original bevel, overall it took only about 30 mins, including finishing on sandpaper & strop.
* There's an significant part of edge unfinished just in front of choil. I have not fixed it yet, losing about 2.5mm edge. Might do that later, or never
Here's the pic:
]
Notes:
* The edge was ground on wheel (hollow), so when sharpened on flat stone, the original factory grind line is still visible even after it's fully apexed. Imagine "(" followed with "|", the inner part of the "(" won't get touched at all.
* The Victorinox pocket sharpener works well (not sure about grit, perhaps 400-600) for the recurved profile.
* Since only minimum metal is removed by following original bevel, overall it took only about 30 mins, including finishing on sandpaper & strop.
* There's an significant part of edge unfinished just in front of choil. I have not fixed it yet, losing about 2.5mm edge. Might do that later, or never
Here's the pic:
]
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^ Nice!
I just got my final knife in out of the ones I ordered from China and I must say that this is the best one yet! I got the Ganzo G710, just an absolutely beautiful knife IMO. ROCK SOLID would be one way to describe it! Everything on it is perfectly done, blade centered, excellent lockup, smooth operation, couldn't ask for more!
I did notice that it is using, I believe, nylon washers instead of the phosphor bronze like the others. However, this does not effect the action and it is smooth as butter. The fraxis lock is excellent for a rock solid lockup. No side to side or up down movement at all. The G10 on the handle feels great, no sharp points as others have mentioned before. The blade, ohhh the blade, its a thing of beauty. Its a reverse tanto style blade, the grind is done perfectly throughout the entire length and the bevels are spot on as well. It came sharp, but with a few passes on the Sharpmaker, it is now shaving sharp!
Overall a GREAT knife! I definitely recommend it. Pics:
I just got my final knife in out of the ones I ordered from China and I must say that this is the best one yet! I got the Ganzo G710, just an absolutely beautiful knife IMO. ROCK SOLID would be one way to describe it! Everything on it is perfectly done, blade centered, excellent lockup, smooth operation, couldn't ask for more!
I did notice that it is using, I believe, nylon washers instead of the phosphor bronze like the others. However, this does not effect the action and it is smooth as butter. The fraxis lock is excellent for a rock solid lockup. No side to side or up down movement at all. The G10 on the handle feels great, no sharp points as others have mentioned before. The blade, ohhh the blade, its a thing of beauty. Its a reverse tanto style blade, the grind is done perfectly throughout the entire length and the bevels are spot on as well. It came sharp, but with a few passes on the Sharpmaker, it is now shaving sharp!
Overall a GREAT knife! I definitely recommend it. Pics:
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Anyone interested, here's preview of Enlan EL08 by one member:: www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/934829-Enlan-EL08-in-da-house!!!
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