Super polished edges

^ yeah bobby, I imagine that took a while doing a mirrored polish to those large fixed blades!! looks great!

ALLHSS said:
This isn't the most polished edge, but you might wonder why the edge is so high on a hollow ground Spyderco Native?

LooRD9Eh.jpg


Well, it's 24° inclusive. I've had this Native for a while, it was pretty worn down and I rarely carried it. So I decided to thin it down to a nice slicey edge.
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nice! I bet it cuts really well now!! I don't like a mirrored edge much over 15 dps as I feel like performance declines significantly w/ a thick mirrored edge.
 
razor-edge-knives said:
^ yeah bobby, I imagine that took a while doing a mirrored polish to those large fixed blades!! looks great!



nice! I bet it cuts really well now!! I don't like a mirrored edge much over 15 dps as I feel like performance declines significantly w/ a thick mirrored edge.
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Because the thickness negates the smooth cutting added by the polish?

I agree on that, but they sure do look nice haha
 
ALLHSS said:
Because the thickness negates the smooth cutting added by the polish?

I agree on that, but they sure do look nice haha
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Well the basic principle when it comes to cutting is that thinner cuts better. So Ideally we want the edge, the grind, and the stock thickness all to work together optimally and be as thin as possible while still holding up for the hardest task we will ever use it for.

Polished edges work best with push cutting (i.e. picking one point on the edge and pushing that part of the edge through what you are cutting, so in other words, no drawing). So if you have a thick polished edge it will not only wedge when cutting through something, it just lacks the overall initial "piercing" of the apex. So that's why on a thicker edge especially I recommend a toothier edge so you have some slicing aggression so it can work more like a saw if you need it to to get through something (because the thinness is lacking).

Hope this makes sense :rolleyes:
 
razor-edge-knives said:
^ yeah bobby, I imagine that took a while doing a mirrored polish to those large fixed blades!! looks great!



nice! I bet it cuts really well now!! I don't like a mirrored edge much over 15 dps as I feel like performance declines significantly w/ a thick mirrored edge.
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Thanks bud, and honestly didn't take long at all maybe about 30minutes per blade on the 1095 and around an hour on the s30v. I used the wskt blade grinder and a progression of new and used belts.

Fresh x65, worn x65, fresh x22, worn x22, fresh x4, worn x4, 12k grit belt, a worn 12k grit belt with Emory compound applied, followed up with stropping on green compound and finished with stropping on flitz on a paint stick.

I just picked up some linen belts with .5 and .1 micron compound I need to try.


I prefer a polished bevel with a somewhat toothy micro bevel on my outdoor knifes, I feel it helps prevent drag when carving while still having bite.

The bk2 is 34° inclusive, The bk16 is 30° inclusive with 34° micro bevel, and that Bushcrafter is 40° inclusive per its owner request, mine is 30° inclusive with 36° micro bevel.
 
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razor-edge-knives said:
Well the basic principle when it comes to cutting is that thinner cuts better. So Ideally we want the edge, the grind, and the stock thickness all to work together optimally and be as thin as possible while still holding up for the hardest task we will ever use it for.

Polished edges work best with push cutting (i.e. picking one point on the edge and pushing that part of the edge through what you are cutting, so in other words, no drawing). So if you have a thick polished edge it will not only wedge when cutting through something, it just lacks the overall initial "piercing" of the apex. So that's why on a thicker edge especially I recommend a toothier edge so you have some slicing aggression so it can work more like a saw if you need it to to get through something (because the thinness is lacking).

Hope this makes sense :rolleyes:
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Perfect sense, a much better and more informative way of writing what I was thinking [emoji106]

I've experimented with polishing a thicker edge but leaving some toothiness, but it can be difficult.

A couple people I sharpen for cut a lot of meat and prefer toothy edges, but like the look of a polish.
 
Just finished this up with my new chosera stones. I tried to take a little shortcut by going from the 100grit diamond to the 300 grit.. It showed in the end.. no more shortcuts, im still learning.


ee1cebab44d2cf4cec2f3dbf49e0d51c.jpg
 
Bobby3326 said:
How difficult is s90v to polish? Without the aide of a guided system?
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Very near to impossible from what I been hearing but I don't have any first hand experience , Josh at Razor edge does my my edges really nicely, my S30V and 204P are beyond razor sharp. :D
 
wiredbeans said:
Very near to impossible from what I been hearing but I don't have any first hand experience , Josh at Razor edge does my my edges really nicely, my S30V and 204P are beyond razor sharp. :D
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But it can be done =) This is another forum member who does an amazing job mirroring blades. Check out his thread here.

DSCN2068_zps31ab43b5.jpg
 
Amazing work Bobby, especially freehand!

That primary grind done by Victor wasn't done on a wicked edge... It was done by hand and took roughly 40 hours on the s90v!
 
razor-edge-knives said:
Amazing work Bobby, especially freehand!

That primary grind done by Victor wasn't done on a wicked edge... It was done by hand and took roughly 40 hours on the s90v!
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Yea figured it was done by hand, I just meant in general for sharpening & polishing "super steels" a wicked edge would be a lot easier.
 
Bobby3326 said:
Thanks bud, and honestly didn't take long at all maybe about 30minutes per blade on the 1095 and around an hour on the s30v. I used the wskt blade grinder and a progression of new and used belts.

Fresh x65, worn x65, fresh x22, worn x22, fresh x4, worn x4, 12k grit belt, a worn 12k grit belt with Emory compound applied, followed up with stropping on green compound and finished with stropping on flitz on a paint stick.

I just picked up some linen belts with .5 and .1 micron compound I need to try.


I prefer a polished bevel with a somewhat toothy micro bevel on my outdoor knifes, I feel it helps prevent drag when carving while still having bite.

The bk2 is 34° inclusive, The bk16 is 30° inclusive with 34° micro bevel, and that Bushcrafter is 40° inclusive per its owner request, mine is 30° inclusive with 36° micro bevel.
Click to expand...

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Wow, never heard of stropping with Flitz. Is this a thing a lot do? Or something you decided to try. Makes a lot of sense. I got a big ol' tube of Flitz...gonna give it a try! Thx for that interesting idea!
 
Scrim said:
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Wow, never heard of stropping with Flitz. Is this a thing a lot do? Or something you decided to try. Makes a lot of sense. I got a big ol' tube of Flitz...gonna give it a try! Thx for that interesting idea!
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I got the idea from someone here...I have the liquid kind and just it on a paint stick until I get a piece of balsa...I apply it and let it dry out and absorb into the wood a lil bit and then use it as a finishing step...
 
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